Glad you like the X6 triple, it’s been a favorite of mine for a few years now. Something about that Eagle Eye X6 that just really appeals to me. The host I built yesterday makes 2018 lumens on a single XP-L emitter. 
I think I’ve built an X6 in just about every configuration imaginable.
It’s also fun to put a short tube on an X6 and run it from an 18350. 
Had a Sea Blue 66 Bug. :cry:
But is it 219b or 219c (Not a tint but LED type) 219c's are more efficient and brighter.
Wasn’t told by PO. Any way I can tell by looking at them?
The 219C has a black surround and a white half circle off the dome at one corner, it makes it look like an over easy egg that’s spilled some off on one side.
By comparison, the 219B is a white ceramic substrate with a smallish dome compared to Cree emitters.
So after taking that picture I put my light back together. Turned on and the switch melted. Unscrewed cap. What would cause this? Mcpcb touching sides of head?
Positive wire got cut when you tightened down the bezel, which is why I don’t bring in the two wires from the sides like that one. I drill a hole in center and bring the leads up through the middle so they may twist, but not get cut.
I built the first one similar to how yours is way back in 2014, I saw that it could twist and started going down the middle, I drew up a spacer plan both for use with the 32mm Noctigon and a big head filling variant for a 20mm quad and 24mm Carclo optic, I believe Nitro had some of those made once upon a time, based on my layout.
Not sure but I think I was the first to do the X6 triple, Simon was discontinuing the 32mm Noctigon as it wasn’t selling well and I talked him into keeping it in production, took a poll here and got interest up and then it caught on and a lot of these have been done.
I’m pretty sure I’ve made over 40 X6 lights, not sure how many of those were triples vs quads vs other exotic emitters, but a high percentage were triples for sure. I’ve used several feet of 1 3/8” copper bar stock making spacers. I think Nitro bought a 5’ bar and had the shop make a Bunch of em, a couple of years back.
Man, now I feel bad for asking which emitters. Hope replacing the switch isn't too painful! Those are 219c s... MCPCB touching the sides of the head should be fine.
Now I feel bad for asking about emitters but I'm going to ask for a picture again anyways cause I don't understand where the spacer would go. I'm interested because I bought parts to build one of these myself (Just can't find the noctigon board in stock anywhere). I probably would have installed it the same way as OP. Is it safe to drilla hole through the center of noctigon board?
Would ya look at that.
Kinda wonder why the screw is still there. May I see a pic of the back of the spacer?
I think you have. Your the x6 wizard. But I don’t think I’ve seen you put a Xhp35hi in one yet…
The screw was keeping the spacer from sitting flat on the shelf. It was rubbing on the head of the screw. And now that it is sitting flat (with some arctic silver) the head is tight with double o rings and the optic is loose. What the heck haha?
I left the screw though. It is keeping the spacer/pcb from spinning. Good thing I guess.
GRR… you need a glass lens now. I can send you one if you don’t have one.
It would be much appreciated!
I am most definitely taking this as a learning experience, I hope the pictures and outcome will help others in building and trouble shooting their lights.
It’s nice to actually see whats inside and know how it goes together.
Great! now ill have to build more of these. (shakes head)
Remove the screw, glue the sink in with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive or Arctic Silver. It needs the contact to get rid of the heat. Having that screw in there leaves a lot of dead air space and the heat is bottlenecked into the sink.
The mcpcb should be glued to the sink as well, or re-flowed. I don’t see anything in any of the optic leg holes which makes me wonder how good the contact is between the big 32mm mcpcb and sink. You should check that.