The HELLFIGHTER mod thread!

The 50.2 is still several thousand lumens below the XHP70, even if I overdrove it maybe I would get 4k lumens over 9mm^2, which would not be much more intensity than the XHP70 at 6k+ lumens over 16mm^2.
Less brightness, similar cd, not worth it. When cree releases a XHP70.2 then I might upgrade, but for now the XHP70 P2 1C with a shaved dome is what I will be using :slight_smile:

Also, the XHP70 is running at 12A because it’s what was available on the driver I bought.
If you look at this graph, you can see it peaks at 12A.
It seems like the difference between 9 and 12 is not much, but

  1. this is N2 bin, not P2 which is much higher, and
  2. this is with worse cooling than I use on my flashlights.
    The tests done by djozz and other people is just on a piece of copper or small heatsink, since that’s similar to the cooling you will get when putting the LED into a regular flashlight.
    I always go overkill on the cooling for all my projects, so that curve in the graph will actually not curve down so soon.

What makes it curve down is the heat. This is from djozz’s test:
12A 0 seconds 6631
12A 10 seconds 6258
12A 20 seconds 6164
12A 30 seconds 6024
12A 40 seconds 5838
12A 50 seconds 5744
12A 60 seconds 5557

As you can see, when the LED is running at good temperatures you get much higher output.

I would not count out the XHP-50.2. I just checked with the Cree PCT. In K4 Bin it has the brightness of a XHP70 N4 (the bin below P2) and actually has a lower Vf compared to the XHP-70 (usually means that it should take even more current).

XHP-70.2 should be amazing :wink:

Where are you getting your numbers??
The XHP50.2 K4 is rated at 1380lm max while the XHP70 N4 is 1830lm max… (at 85C, and their rated voltage+current)
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/ds—XHP502.pdf
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/ds-XHP70.pdf

Also it doesn’t mean you can just pump more current through the chip. Typically you can drive them at 200-300% their rated spec, which is how you can get 4-6k lumens out of an XHP70.
If you do 200-300% of the XHP50, you would get 3-4.5k lumens.
The current increases exponentially too, so even if you were able to drive it at 400% without it dying it would be using way more current and producing more heat than the XHP70.

The XHP70 is the best way to get high lumens from a small area. The only thing close is the luminus LEDs, but those need special drivers because they use like 20-40 amps and low voltage.
Other options to get high lumen output involve COB LEDs, but I would rather not use that in this light because I want useful throw, not just flood :slight_smile:

Dale’s L6 @ just over 12 amps measured 7141.5 lumens at start up! There is no chance in hell that a 70.2 will out throw a P2-1C, maybe a bit more lumens, maybe, but never out throwing it! :smiley:

The 70.2 will be the same as the XP-G3, L.2, 50.2 No throw high lumen crap! :person_facepalming:

Go ahead try to de-dome any of them, you know what you will get, even worse crap! :wink:

But you CAN de-dome a XHP70 P2-1C!

It’s going to one bad boy there ENDERMAN! :smiley: :beer:

Haha nice :slight_smile:
You’re right, a .2 probably will be more lumens less throw since I can’t dedome it, the g3 was a pretty big disappointment.
Who knows though, maybe if the lumen increase is high enough I can deal with a bit less throw.
8k lumens maybe? :stuck_out_tongue:

This is supposed to be a more practical reflector “flashlight” with spill and lots of lumens, I already have a crazy throw flashlight!

The P2 1C I have is shaved-dome though, I will not be dedoming it because I want to have some protection over the dies since I often drop or touch them accidentally xD
Still should get over 6k lumens which is already 2x more than the Hellfighter HID lamp does.

This afternoon I will be trying to get that last darn screw out, once that happens I can start installing my Neutrik plug.
Even though it’s still not converted to LED I would love to get it working and take it out for some pics with the stock HID setup!

You can seal a dedomed LED with high temperature clear car laquer

So far I have done the P2-1C TN42 with dome on, shaved and de-domed, and changed the FET to a SIR404 shortened the 18awg leads till their banjo string tight and running 4 VTC5A’s right off the charger, getting 12.82 amps on the hit, so now I’m trying to figure out how to stuff 4 of my 20700A Pany’s in it! :person_facepalming: It’s never ending!!! :smiley:

So I’ll be watching, can’t wait to see the results, in the meantime I have a few more of these things to mod for my Buddies! :wink:

:smiling_imp: :+1:

Nice collection :slight_smile:
When finish this hellfighter should perform like one of those TN42s modded with the XHP70, but with better cooling so it can run continuously at 12A.

btw I finally managed to drill the darn screw out, it took a few hours of work, but I got the hole rethreaded and now can attach the light back to the handle!
Next step is to widen the back hole to fit the plug.

Yeah man, they get crazy hot in Turbo, but not bad outside and 6 levels. Really need some kind of active cooling system, got the room in there?

Yup, plenty of space inside.
I would rather not have a fan though because that would mean cutting vents into the beautiful aluminum body, so what I will try is using multiple thick heatpipes to transfer heat from the LED to the body and radiate it that way.

Selfishly I would love to see a backpack liquid cooled system! Haha that would be something else. :smiley:

Haha that’s definitely possible, battery and cooling in a backpack, only LED and reflector in the light :stuck_out_tongue:
Some day I will build that, although not soon cause I have no money :C

You’d be a true Ghostbuster!

Cree PCT - way more practical than any datasheet! Together with measurements from djozz that show high-current performance it is possible to calculate most values and get very realistic results.

Of course, it is all specualtion until someone actually tests the XHP-50.2, but I think it will be very good.

By convention, the larger L2 dies on the XHP70 can handle higher outputs than the XHP50 G2 dies.
The harder you drive the LED, the more difference there is.

The tests in the link you showed are only for very low currents, so the difference is minimal.
The 50.2 is actually not much brighter than the old 50, it’s just more efficient.
Hopefully someone can make a graph of the 50.2 outpupt soon.

Kinda big for an EDC light… :smiley:

I second the suggestion about using something other than a drill-bit on the 1” hole. Reamer, countersink, something to gradually open it up, maybe even a Dremel to grind away the inside of a scribed 1” circle.

Or if you can get a step-bit to at least 25mm, that should do it. I (carefully!) use a 20mm to match-mod Minimags.

Haha thanks :slight_smile:
I’ll try the countersink bit, the regular drill bit didn’t work very well.
If bits don’t work I may just try widening it with a rounded file, it will take a while but should work out.

To widen round holes you can use sandpaper head on a dremel

Will try that too :slight_smile:

Finally got the hole drilled and the new plug inserted!

Took like 12 hours to get this part done… was a huge pain to shape such thick aluminum.


This was the easy piece, only a few mm of aluminum.


7075 aluminum is really tough!


The plug was pressure fitted with a hammer, it will never go anywhere.
Unfortunately I didn’t think about the plug that needed to fit inside the connector, so after pressure fitting the plastic socket I realized the plug didn’t fit.
Then I ended up spending 6 more hours grinding away at the inside of the plug with files to make the plug fit again.
In hindsight I should have spent the extra 2 hours to widen the hole in the aluminum a millimetre more…


Soldered the wires coming from the switch too.


All closed up!


Here’s the end result. Pretty clean IMO, minimal scratches to the aluminum handle during the whole process.

Finished pics coming tomorrow. :slight_smile: