What did you mod today?

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Jerommel
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I did a driver mod.
FET+1 modded to 19+1, totalling 20× 7135.
Here’s the pics:

I’m just not a fan of direct drive, so the FET had to go.

Original plan was 12x or 14× 7135 for an Astrolux S3, but:

Inside a copper sheet 16mm circle 19 of them will fit. Smile
This will fit snugly in most pills for decent cooling (with some thermal goo).

Positioned them with grey epoxy before soldering them to the copper enclosure.

Added solder paste for thermal and electrical path to the copper ‘wall’.

Heating it up inside a pill to keep the wall in shape.
Had to do it twice because the paste loses about 50% volume when soldered.

Thin ring for the + and a fatter one for the – output. Both have lips for soldering leads.
Behold a 6.65 Ampere Constant Current donut.

Leads on driver PCB for + to the 19× 7135 and – from the on board 7135 to the – output of the donut.
Made some room with a rotary tool so the copper wall can be soldered to the outer ring trace of the PCB.
Hole in PCB for + wire spring bypass.

More epoxy as solder mask and to keep the parts in place and to join PCB and donut.

Donut and PCB soldered together, bypassed spring added.

Output side. Black wire soldered to output lip of the donut.

Epoxy added to secure the lot a little extra.

NOT TESTED YET ! Shocked Praying it will work… Facepalm

I’ll be using it (if it works) in a S2+ triple with either XP-G3 or 219C.
Waiting on blue S2+ host and XP-G3 S4 3A from Fasttech.
Planning on de-anodizing and polishing the S2+, especially after seeing that beauty vwpieces produced.
I don’t like coloured lights too much, but i wanted that switch boot. Smile

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

vwpieces
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Thumbs UpThumbs Up Jerommel! Someone said it can’t be done.
Enderman
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Nice job, great way of packing all those chips in a small space Smile
I personally would have tested before filling it with epoxy, but watevs Silly

Jerommel
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Enderman wrote:
Nice job, great way of packing all those chips in a small space Smile
I personally would have tested before filling it with epoxy, but watevs Silly

You’re right of course…
I ‘beeped’ with DMM for short circuits and conduction and all was well.
The driver was working before i removed the FET.
The risky bit was soldering the donut to the PCB, so i can only hope it went well.. FacepalmParty

We’ll see…

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

sedstar
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this a USA penny, thats the year on it… i made my own USB soldering microscope. based on pictures from a sub-100 dollar commercial unit? i have more magnification and 10x the working height…

 photo Picture 001_zpsbonfjpcg.jpg

the tech is done, just nuts and bolts to go from mock up to prototype… i think i might be able to blow the commercial units out of the water, maybe… i’m thinking of a moveable table under it maybe… heh heh…

With enough black coffee and cigarettes? all things are possible…

I am currently still shipping… REAL GENUINE CREE xp-g emitters, the classic… brace yourself? as low as 20 cents apiece!! Check out the SALES THREAD, everyone is happy… then PM me

SALES THREAD:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52528

if you are into reloading? this is my site… I inherited the remains of what was once arguably the best reloading site on the internet… its the “BLF” of reloading sites…

http://reloadbench.freeforums.net/

if you think night vision would be cool? It IS… this site i am a member of, and its basically the “BLF” of home made scratch-built digital night vision. They are at the leading forefront of advanced DIY for digital night vision, and thats gun mounted or handheld… builds rival and exceed commercial offerings…

http://nightvisionforumuk.com/

CRX
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Manker E14 18500 battery tube

vwpieces
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Went through one of these cheapie unbranded 18650 lights. Has a charge port but it is dependent on the charger or wall wart for the charging capabilities. 3.5mm power port.
Modes are H, L, Strobe on a softer remote SW feel. I do like these lights and have a few around the house. Snagged off ebay auctions for $1 or $2. They have plastic reflectors but offer a nice spot and no artifacts.
I swapped the 20mm MCPCB with an aluminum DTP Nichia 219B 4000K high CRI. It has a pressed in emitter shelf and that was removed, sanded flat and good thermal paste. Driver output was about 900mA on High and I stacked another 1R0 resistor to the existing 2 already there. I used the same value as the existing resistors 3X 1R0 is now 0.333 ohm from previous 0.5 ohm. Jumped the output to 1.3A and is a nice increase but well within reason for this light. Also replaced the wires and added some lead to the solder.
Others have emitter swaps but the results of this one turned out good. May go through the others to put the resistor into those too.

spacer looks like its not seated flat but it is, just shadow from the light I used for the pic. Reflector is actually shiny too and that looks dull, but its not.

little better in some ways…

vwpieces
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This was a $1.75 light off ebay auction. Advertised as 12W but only drew 4.7W. Swapped all the beads to 3W WW 4000K and stuffed one of those 20W Flood light drivers into it. Had a few drivers and first used one I knew was going to deliver 20W. Ran the light about an hour and just thought it got too warm. Dug out another “20W” driver and gave it a test. 12.4W and it really is not noticeably dimmer than it was at 19W on the other driver. These 20W drivers should deliver 600mA with voltage between 24-38V DC, so the 9X 3W fall into the range.
This light has good bones… Good fins, good pressed in shelf for the board with descent thickness. Used a moderate anount of thermal grease spread evenly. Locked the shelf and MCPCB in better, 3 screw holes that were not originally used, with some Stainless metric socket head screws and washers… It’s tight now. There is also some added pressure from the outer bezel on the optics.

Not sure where I am going to use this but it was something to do today. Confident it could run 24/7 without issues.


giorgoskok
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Nice work vwpieces …

I modded an Ultrafire S5 some weeks ago , with a Nichia 219C 5700k 80+ CRI on Noctigon , flashed biscotti on a 7135×8 driver that i installed , and changed reflector for an OP reflector from Convoy S2+ .

One great light for 10$ … Beer

Now i have still to mod the one you did too , i just have to get some Nichia’s (probably 219B) and some 16mm DTP boards .

Coppet
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I like to have the Lumintop Tool Copper with the electronic switch from the Tool Ti, here it is.
The whole story: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52749



Sorry for my bad english:-) 

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Rufusbduck
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Built up a tiny10 7135 driver(2 chip stack) with guppy drive and installed it in a BLF 348.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

pinkpanda3310
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Modded a DQG26650 with one of Everett’s colour drivers. The only thing left is to order a lens for it.

vwpieces
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giorgoskok wrote:
Nice work vwpieces …

Now i have still to mod the one you did too , i just have to get some Nichia’s (probably 219B) and some 16mm DTP boards .

Glad you saw the post. Was thinking of sending it to ya.
Wish I could program a driver… Still learning basics. I was proud of the resistor mod on that one because I was flying by the seat of my pants and generally copy what others do on electronics mods. May do 2X 1R0 stacked on the next. 0.25 ohm may still be under 2A, shooting for 1.5A to be safe.

giorgoskok
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It’s really easy to get into flashing firmwares .
If you want to , just send me a message and i think i will be able to help you .

vwpieces
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Did another 18650 rechargeable. Added 2X 1R0 resistors and get 2.0A as I guessed. Some pics


Sanded the spacer and fitted

Double stacked resistors and the driver. This one had a hot glue Booger between the SW and charge port. Made it miserable…

Used a Jaxman Nichia 219B 4000K high CRI on a 20mm DTP aluminum.

Bypassed the driver spring… because I was in there and the iron was on.

vwpieces
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Another…

Eagle Eye X7 XP-L HI 3A got some boost today. Killer 26650 light IMO.
MtnE 20mm Fet+1 and bypassed SW spring. Didn’t check amps because the tail switch assembly ring is difficult to get started and scratches get worse on the tail finish.

Ceiling shot of spot



gchart
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I stripped for the first time today.

Stripped a flashlight, that is. I got this grey S2+ for like $6. But upon getting it, I couldn’t stand the color so it’s sat in its box for a month or so.

But I got inspired by vwpieces to strip and polish it. It’s not perfect, but much better than that ugly grey.

vwpieces
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I like it. Thumbs UpThumbs Up
Mine WAS Blue. Got it for the metal SW but couldn’t take the color any more. Tried to bake it and really got ugly, not changing color. So I went bare naked.
Most of the time I take pics of a polished light and see that I need to do-over. Back to 2000 wet and usually harder polish cause it’s late and frustrated. Worn 2000 paper will help also.

Grease the threads, and I usually wipe a thin coat of oil inside. Sometimes the Lye is not rinsed off good enough and white oxidization forms in a few days.

gchart
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Thanks for the tips Beer

I really like the metal switch, but that’s OK. Having the silicone one on this just means that it’ll get an illuminated tailcap soon. I’m thinking white or white & blue on this one, should go with the bare metal nicely.

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Coffee is working this morning… Tiny parts.

SF348 got a new emitter. Yeah, another 219B 4000K High CRI.
Cleaned up the pill, removed burrs and flatened best I could. Opened the reflector a bit too much and got a couple scratches, but oh well it fits the emitter. There was no thermal paste on it. reflowed the emitter to the original 8mm aluminum MCPCB.

Bought it cause it was $4.50 but never used this light because it was an awful color. Now I may grab it on occasion.





Got tired of the SF348 screaming “Polish me, Polish Me!” Hope the voices will stop now.

CRX
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Locator switch light on the S10R II i got from – X3 -

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Sweet mod !
You like tinkering with small LEDs don’t you ? Big Smile

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

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steel_1024
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TA driver, Bistro

Eagle-eye X7

XP-G3 5000K

Sorry for my poor english.

sedstar
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more incremental work on my “scratch build” DIY-USB microscope project…

melted zinc, cast it in into a short piece of round stock, 3 or more inches in diameter… for inexpensive “practicing” making the general shape of something i will make later out of aluminum stock.

practicing the shape on aluminum would be cost prohibitive, lol…

With enough black coffee and cigarettes? all things are possible…

I am currently still shipping… REAL GENUINE CREE xp-g emitters, the classic… brace yourself? as low as 20 cents apiece!! Check out the SALES THREAD, everyone is happy… then PM me

SALES THREAD:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52528

if you are into reloading? this is my site… I inherited the remains of what was once arguably the best reloading site on the internet… its the “BLF” of reloading sites…

http://reloadbench.freeforums.net/

if you think night vision would be cool? It IS… this site i am a member of, and its basically the “BLF” of home made scratch-built digital night vision. They are at the leading forefront of advanced DIY for digital night vision, and thats gun mounted or handheld… builds rival and exceed commercial offerings…

http://nightvisionforumuk.com/

Wieselflinkpro
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Nice Project. I want to do it similar with XP-L2 and BLF A6 Driver.
The Driver is very nice solderd, did you done it yourselfs?

Have you reworked the driver retaining ring? Or what is the right ring in the 6th picture?

steel_1024 wrote:
TA driver, Bistro

Eagle-eye X7

XP-G3 5000K

!https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2058/32923225321_dec00c23b2_z.jpg!

steel_1024
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Yes, Rework with the original ring.

Driver soldered by hot-air gun.

Sorry for my poor english.

Texas_Ace
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If you order the thin .8mm 2OZ boards from oshpark I have found they clear most retaining rings without the need for modifications. The retaining ring will just sit on top of the 7135’s. I do this for all of the 17mm drivers and any 20mm driver that might need the extra clearance. Larger then that and total strength can be an issue.

Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety.

The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer , English Philosopher (1820-1903)

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung IH351D

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CRX
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On the road M3 LED locator switch. Green light is on constantly, turns brighter red for low voltage warning.

Lexel
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Colorful Lights with heat




H III anodisation gets tiny cracks, you can hear it at 80-100°C the layer is too thick so it doesnt expand the same like the aluminum

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

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