Selling the host would be a good alternative also.
TIR is standard 10507 that we can supply easily, as well as triple MCPCB from Noctigon or whatever and driver will be replaced anyway for FET and so on…
Yeah, a host option would be great 
Do we smell a Group Buy?
I’m in for a host too (everything except driver and led lamps) ! Please !!!
It’ll have to include the MCPCB though.
Of course . Host + MCPCB + carclo 10507 optics
If this happen. I will buy one instantly.
When it’s $20 including shipping, yes, me too.
Yes please!
+1
For the very, very small percentage of people that do “tear a light down before they even turn it on,” there are literally hundreds of people - if not more, and yes, even right here on BLF - that don’t. For that small percentage that does do such a thing, to even hint at some type of complaint that Jaxman doesn’t provide such a moddable light is , well, quite self serving at best.
By providing not two, but three different LED options to the consumer for this light, Jaxman has more than covered the base for most of their potential buyers.
I find it rather obtuse to complain about a light available to consumers on a large scale while at the same time backhandedly insisting that their lights and designs would be any better. Different strokes for different folks. One needs to look no further than the design thread for the “vaunted” A6 to see evidence of this.
Mad scientists in their parent’s basement be damned while the rest of us use credit cards on AliExpress to buy Jaxman lights. 
It’s BLF, ya know…
In a non-negative way, I get that.
There is a reason though why there are very few in the mass produced flashlight business…and then there are the many “engineers” that can only bitch and whine about it on a forum.
It is to be expected that many BLF members avoid glued lights though.
Sure, not all of us are like that, but many are, and they are also contributing to development by trying different things.
I guess that’s why there’s a market for hosts too.
And how about the tiny problems many budget lights unfortunately have?
When it’s all glued it’s very hard to repair things.
You will bitch and whine too when you can’t open a light that has a simple problem you could otherwise fix or improve quite easily.
Okay. Valid point.
The more important question here though is, has anyone had any of those problems with a Jaxman light? Or is it simply a case of putting the cart in front of the horse? I mean, are these the very same folks that go out to dinner and put salt on their meal before they’ve even tried it?
I have already ordered an E2L because it seems quite good for the price. I would like to tinker down the road though and if they were to offer the E2L with a nichia triple and perhaps a more powerful driver I would buy another.
@Jaxman - re: the glue, the other thing to consider is that as shown in your OP, it's quite excessive. Unless there's some proprietary sauce in there that allows the heat conductivity to exceed (or even match) metal<>metal (in this case, I'm assuming Cu (300+ W/mK) to Al (200+ W/mK) thermal conductivity, only enough should be used to fill the micro gaps between the two mating surfaces. As a general rule re: glue, less really is more, and anything in excess is counterproductive for heat conductivity since even the best thermal epoxies (10+ W/mK) pale in comparison to the two aforementioned metals.
The E2L looks promising, good luck with the sales.
Hoosh, you’re new here, and being rather strongly critical of me (and others) who have been asking about the goop pictured on the flashlight.
Look back at your posts — you’re choosing harsh words to criticize us. This isn’t Twitter!
Folks who’ve been around here a while do recognize what makes a difference.
Flashlight makers get early feedback by coming here.
Jaxman did right by us by offering a host and understanding the comments made.
Notice how replacing the glue with silicone was suggested — and immediately flagged as a bad alternative.
Notice the information on thermal conductivity — heat transfer — and how thick — or rather, thin — the material ought to be.
You don’t need an engineer to know which way the heat flows.
Will the extension tube threads from the Z1 fit this new flashlight body?
I find it tempting to use with a LED and driver that will require using 2-battery cells
dont use Glue, please, use Screw like manker e14, it hold the MCPCB very well, and no glue, just thermal paste
obtuse, there you have it.
Answers all of our world’s troubles.
Who knew?
Jaxman, when you suggested using silicone, is this the sort of material you’re thinking of? Not silicone glue/caulk but thin sheet?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-1000x-20-20-2-0mm-Soft-Silicone-Heat-Transfer-Pads-Mat-for-LED-Module-Insulation/691859845.html
(note the description there warns it’s not as good at transferring heat as thermal grease)
I’d like to buy a light — neutral white — with NOTHING in between the LED and the shelf.
I would immediately add my own Arctic Silver thermal paste.
(aliexpress stocks it, if you’re interested)
https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/arctic-silver-5.html
Can you sell me a light — neutral white — with NOTHING in between the LED and the shelf?
Or, if not, a host with no driver or LED at all would be ok. I do want a tailcap switch as part of a host.