Hey mate it’s still good. I scratched the reflector but. I think it needs a little output boost I just bought some XPL and XPG2s from fasttech so I might try one of them inside the UT02 see how it does. It sits in a weird spot in my collection it’s to big to want to grab for some job but not big enough for other jobs. I use the XT12GT more then this.
Wow, that’s interesting. I wonder if the difference is because the light pressure only touches one spring and the heavy pressure touches both?
To decide which amp draw is true, I would have to say the one that duplicates the pressure when the battery cap is tightened down normally.
This means a short battery might cause a higher amp draw than a longer battery because they compress the springs more.
Several regulars here reviewed the early production Manker and Utorch like DB Custom and Tom E and got 5 to 6 amps. Do you think they were not pressing the battery down hard enough to touch both springs?
so i found some interesting today
first:
when you press the spring hard(not too hard, normal press to be exact). the current will be about 3,5A, then you slowly reduce your force to spring, the current will slowly goes up to 5.8-6A
but when you press the spring hard again(like how you press at first, and not turn off the light). the current will stay remain, 5.8-6A, strange.
then you switch to low then high again, now the current will be about 3.7A
so
btw, my manker u21, i’m not sure if it is an early version, because i bought it about just 2-3 months ago
from hkequipment
ps:anyone know where to buy its lens, i accidentally touch the len with my glued finger, now it’s very annoy to look at its len
It has to be early because the newer ones won’t go beyond 2.8A at the tail cap.
Is the lens coated? If not then you can use any cleaner. I’m guessing it is coated and you don’t want to damage the coating. What type of glue did you use?
You might try some cleaners only on the outer edge that is not seen. If it doesn’t damage the coating, then use it on the glue. Worst case is you make the glass pure with no coating. It’s not too big a deal.
Edit: yes, review says it’s coated. What if you flip the lens so the glue part is outside and then just clean it with a chemical taking the coating off? As long as the coating is on the inside, then all is good. You won’t loose than extra 1% of output.
it’s coated, and yeah, try many types of cleaner, none of them work
and i has no idea what glue is it, at first i thought the len was dirty, so i kept using it for a short time then notice it’s glue,
it’s diameter is 55mm, so i am finding 55mm AR coated lens now
Is it a chip? A razor blade will get it for sure. That’s how window tint is often removed. A sharp blade will not scratch the surface if you go across at a shallow angle.