Euhm Xtar or what do u mean with “Whooo….”
Sometimes I wonder if pulse charging is just an evolution in marketing, a throwback to the NiCd era where people used pulses to blow away dendrites that shorted out cells, that if a charger did that for you automatically, it could create the perception that it was a more versatile charger in being able to charge near dead cells that others refused to.
I’m not suggesting that it should be avoided, only that like any other circuit, the level of peaks to the pulses are higher current that requires the whole circuit to be more robust to handle it, though I question if it’s a good idea to pulse past 4.2V/etc on lithium chemistries since their lifespan so dramatically drops the closer you get TO 4.2V, let alone going over it.
It’s another thing that makes me wonder how far a mad modder would go… they do make a thing called zeners that could shunt voltage, but then how far do you want to go to fix a design? It does make sense in that it saves a lot of time to get something with a custom display and features built in, then you just correct its shortcomings. Heck, half the time when I do a project, it takes me as much time to figure out and fab a custom enclosure that doesn’t look ghetto. :laughing:
The internal switcher uses PWM to regulate output current, all switchers do that and in most cases there is a filter on the output to remove the PWM and give a smoother current and voltage.
The internal switcher usual works at 300000Hz to 60000kHz, not the <100Hz that Opus and other analyzers uses for PWM.
@ HKJ: Thanks for explaining altough I don’t really understand it.
@Gaus: well you mention safety, so I would say that putting a high current in a bad worn out cell might be dangerous.
My opus arrived and I’ve used to charge and test a few cells. I like it so far but I’m not sure bout the full test, I seem to be getting quite low mAh. But I have to play with it a little more. Some cells got warm on 700mA charge rate but not hot. They never got this warm on my VP2 or VC2 on a 1A charge rate. I won’t be using the opus to charge smaller cells unless I really have to.
Your Opus will not use your chosen charging rate if the cell cannot handle it. It will just automatically go down to what is the level it deems safe for the cell, which is a good feature when charging salvaged cells that has remained in low state-of-charge for quite a while. You will see the display not ‘follow’ your chosen rate, but will eventually go higher, or may not at all if the cell is really in bad shape.
The four individual displays of the Opus is one major advantage over the Littokala and Dragon, for you see what’s happening to ALL four cells at the SAME time, regardless of mode chosen in each bay.
I don’t worry about those pwm or pure CC/CV or whatever thing, for as I posted before, I have owned or am using those ALL those type of chargers and until now have not noticed any advantage of one over the other to my cells in real usage, just perhaps a smoother graph presentation of one over the other.
With salvaged cells, just be around ALL the time when charging them as some of them can and will suddenly get abnormally hot anytime. Most of these cells have had a tough life, or have stayed in a very dangerous low voltage already. It happened one time to me. I salvaged Sanyo cells that was given by a friend from an unrepairable laptop. It was 4.2v after charged, but suddenly got hot when put into the charger in a discharge mode.
Can the 3100 charge cr123’s ? I notice the 3400 has that listed .
Hi and welcome wilson. CR123 batteries are not rechargeable. 16340 rechargable batteries can be charged on both.
Edit:
I’d love to see sources for the statement that humidity makes a ( significant ) difference.
Nice…. :+1:
I don’t want a flawed study, I like science.
In an open cell (SLA battery) environment this can matter, but in a sealed cell, humidity can only matter with hygroscopic flux residue present, or if the cell itself was defective so the seal, wasn’t one.
The world will need a mechanism for the change relative to humidity. This is science, not a social game of putting the burden on someone else who screwed up their findings.
Don’t be deluded by one study where the participants were desperate to show they didn’t waste the money spent on it. This happens all the time.
I noticed plug came with my charger is only rated 3A. So, if I charge 4 batteries at 1A each. Wouldn’t this be bad?
I like this charger however the one I have the fan is on all the time while powered on.
Occurred after I inserted the dc plug several times directly into the charger when the adapter was plugged into AC.
The ac/dc adapter having power apparently caused an electrical spark to occur between plug and charger, (while inserting the dc plug) causing damage to some of the fan control electronics of the charger’s PCB.
You shouldn’t ever plug in this type of charger when the AC/DC adapter has power as doing so may cause sparking between the DC plug and charger.
Charger seems to charge batteries ok, only the fans run all time never stopping or starting.
How do I get the fan to turn on and off via it’s thermistor or temperature sensor? Currently the fan hasn’t ever stopped running while the charger is turned on (plugged in) and charging batteries.
The fan began running all the time just after I plugged in the AC/DC adapter DC plug several times, afterwhich I noticed the sparking between the dc plug and charger.
IIRC, the Opus instructions state to first plug the dc plug into the charger before plugging the power adapter into AC.
Interesting to say the least about the fan running non stop. I’ve only plugged my opus in one time and its never been unplugged since. Same with my opus nihm charger. One in the bathroom other on the kitchen counter.
The one in the kitchen I strategicly placed right next to a window unit air condition. So there’s especially for the next 7 months of southern heat wkll be cold air blowing right on the charger and batteries. Even if my fan does break I believe it wouldn’t come close to overheating or thermal shutdown inside not being three feet from the cold air source. The 2.2 version seems to have most of the bugs worked out.
Guess I’m not big on plugging and unplugging chargers. Unneeded wear and tear. Hell even my vc2 stayed plugged in for about 4 months straight before I moved it. In the past I’ve had issues with USB cords wearing out in the cord and the device so now I limit it.
I did purchase a replacement fan in case mine ever hits the crapper. For $1.50 I need another actually. Opus is my go to charger. I just ran 70 cells through it the past 4 days. From pack pulls to test out. Runs like a champ. I gets used daily to charge 4-8 cells usually. If under 4 cells I’ll just uses a lii202 or bc2
Back to bugs, I have the 2.2 version I’ve noticed mine foes this at times. Say I have 4 cells at 3.20 and I put them all in and press 1amp across all 4 sometimes a few minutes in the unit will reset itself. Like a reboot and all 4 will start at 500mah. I’ve witnessed it a couple times. The whole screen lights up like you just plugged it in then goes to default charge. It only does this occasionally not very often. And only at 4x 1amp. Never seen it at 4x700mah or even 2x2amp. I don’t know if the low voltage of 4 cells is drawing to much for the power supply so it resets like a internal fuse going off. And seems only st low cell voltages when the current draw is the highest. The 2.2 version is set at 4.7 not 5volts like the other to limit the pulse spikes under load
I must have gotten the instructions mixed up with the SkyRC MC3000.
From MC3000 manual:
“First connect the 11~18V(60W or more) DC power adapter plug to the device, then plug the 110/220V AC power cable plug into the mains wall socket. In this order.”
I seem to remember a couple other chargers that used power adapters having the same sort of instructions.
Perhaps I’m wrong, but I’ll have to disagree with you and say it’s more likely the sparking did cause a problem with the PCB’s fan thermostat circuit. However I’m not going to rule out a flaw, bad circut or defect was either the main cause or contributed to the failing thermostat. I think minmally the sparking may have initiated the problem because of an existing defect or flaw of the PCB.
I had an option to return the unit to the seller, however since the shipping was too expensive I just kept it and bring it along with me when I travel. At home I mainly use the MC3000, but in some ways I prefer the simplicity of the Opus which is lighter and not cumbersome as the MC3000.
The chargers I’ve looked at inside at their PCB the power inputs in relation to the PCB don’t appear to be very well protected. Not much expense if any was put into protecting and/or isolating power input of the PCBs.
There was some discussion about it a while back on one of the forums. Not really a wild guess. I’ve owned and been using PCs and various types of smaller electronic equipment for more than 35 years. I sometimes get intrinsic thoughts and feelings for electronic equipment it’s behavior. Many times while troubleshooting and repairing electronics these intrinsic thoughts and feeling have proved to be correct.
However I’m not saying my intrinsic thoughts and feelings can’t be wrong. I’m open to ideas, possibly procedural testing methods that can be performed to eliminate and prove possibilities that are wrong.
I no longer have my electronics lab setup with various types of electronic testing equipment and only perform modest electronic repairs using a DMM when able.
I currently have problems with heart disease and breathing, along with past heart surgery that prevents me from doing things I use to be able to do without any problems.
You know, my v 2.2 has done what sound like the same thing on occasion when doing 4 cells (18650’s) at 1A each. I just figured it had something to do with heat or the load being to much for it…… That would be a “wild guess” too, no hard data or scientific theory to back it up……….
So, I just started using the Lii 500 in those situations.
Simple solution for me, but I would like to find out for sure sometime what causes that.
So far mine has NOT done that.Neither the returned or New Opus.
I spoke too soon. That was yesterday! Did a Discharge/Test @ 1amp. I came in the room right after the 4 X 18650 Orbtronic were discharged and just went into CHARGE cycle. I noticed it was charging @500mAh and the Capacity data was NOT there. I set it back to 1000mAh. Came back in room 5 minutes later and it was @ 500mAh again! Set it back to 1000mah and this time I watched it. Three[3] times in a row the unit reset[shut off] and defaulted to 500mah again!
I am not sure whether it is the power supply , failing thermal sensor[?] or just over heating inside.The charger NEVER feels hot.
I think it is overheating because the power supply should be plenty according to HKJ. I asked HKJ earlier today if 12v/3a is enough for 4 batteries @ 1amp?:
"Easily, 12V 3A is 36 watt, 4 batteries with each 4.2V charged at 1A is 16.8 watt, there is a lot of spare power for display and heat".
I am disappointed because this one had more accurate results w/ capacity tests and gave me a slightly higher charges. I called Jon from LIIONWHOLESALE and am getting another one on Monday! He is a very nice guy. So this will be my third one since March 2,2017!
If the Third one fails I am done with these chargers! He told me he does not get reimbursed for these. I feel bad for him.
People can say what they want about the less technologically advanced FENIX ARE-C2. They have longevity[3 years plus] and are consistent w/ no issues!.Must be the simpler technology!
[quote=wolfdog1226]
[quote=wolfdog1226I asked HKJ earlier today if 12v/3a is enough for 4 batteries @ 1amp?: Easily, 12V 3A is 36 watt, 4 batteries with each 4.2V charged at 1A is 16.8 watt, there is a lot of spare power for display and heat.[/quote]
What I did not say was that it requires that the charger know how to handle the power. The first versions of the C3100 charger was very bad on that, in later versions it was improved, but not perfect. This means that a sensitive power supply may give the charger problems.
But you have the problem during discharge and that do not make any sense, the charger is not supposed to be loading the power supply when doing discharges.