a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

aha.ok.but I wanted to use xplhi…thats a maximum you can get in a triple.
so without a good heatsink it will be damaged on dd with fet driver I guess

You can most definitely use XP-L HI in this light (if you can get past the glue :stuck_out_tongue: . This light will have less thermal mass than one with a large spacer, but will also wick heat away from the LED quicker due to it’s direct thermal path. This means that if you have a direct drive triple with a thermal threshold, it will heat up faster, but also cool quicker. as far as actual results vs a spacer S2+ build, I guess we have to wait until someone does it :smiley:

Hi,

I am confused about something… exactly what is glued to what in the stock light? I saw the pics earlier, but:

- is the MCPCB glued to the built-in shelf?

- is the optic (feet) glued to the MCPCB?

- is the driver glued in (and how)?

  • Are the head-to-body threads (or any other threads) glued?

My “impression” is that only the MCPCB is glued to the built-in shelf, to prevent the MCPCP and optic from spinning (and causing the optic to chop off the emitter) when screwing the bezel and o-ring in.

Is that correct?

EDIT: Clarified wording.

As far as we can tell, the MPCB is glued to the shelf.

Got me one ordered a couple of minutes ago.

  • Beautiful Gray color that I personally love so dearly. :+1: / check
  • And lots of Glue, JB Weld, Silicon, Bacon Grease, or whatever they use…………. :+1: :+1: / check - check

I can’t wait !!!
:wink:

I would love to see a 1x26650 version of the Jaxman E2L using Nichia 219B emitters.

I'd be up for a mule, as well.

Ok, thanks. That’s what it looks like to me, too.

If (note the “if”) that is the case, then, modding (e.g., replacing the emitters with some other emitter) would only encounter the glue because of having to somehow getting the MCPCB unglued from the shelf?

Maybe instead of doing that, could the emitters be reflowed “in place”? I have done that in the past with some lights (Nitecore) using a heat gun. They weren’t triples though…

26650+Nichia= :+1:

How do you specify tint on the order? I don’t see somewhere to request that?

Thanks,
Jim

EDIT: NVM I see it now.

That, iirr.

I mentioned… probably in this thread, not sure… that it looks like plain ol’ Fujik, not thermal-epoxy, so it’d be the typische rubbery goop that’s often used in lieu of actual thermal paste.

Once someone gets a light and dissects it, we’ll know for sure.

Wonderfully thick chunk o’ copper from the looks in the pic, so you could probably just shave right through it with an Xacto™ blade.

That should go perfectly well, especially with a heatgun. The emitters may wait to reflow until the entire head has heated up enough (but the driver is removed anyway I suppose), but that will not have been different with the Nitecore.

113mm, really, whose pocket does that fit in?

not mine

can you please try to make something using 18650, length 90mm or less?

DQG did it, but i had 2 of them and they both broke

i’m sure it;s very nice but 90mm or less, please

wle

If you haven't ordered yet, you may want to check with the OP to see if the following offer from post 75 still stands. If not, your reflow in head idea sounds promising. It would be hard to pry out the MCPCB from inside a head on a fixed shelf without causing some damage.

EDIT: If there is a part of the MCPCB exposed over a hole in the shelf, you can probably push the MCPCB up. It will likely bend the MCPCB, but they can sometimes be reflattened or replaced at not too much cost.

can anyone make < 90mm 18650 that won’t break?

wle

Can anyone make ANYTHING that won’t break?

I know people that could break a 90mm long bar of 25mm diameter Titanium bar stock…

Are you going to stalk every tube 18650 light thread with your request ?
I, for one, love compact tube light 18650 but you will not make a supplier create a flashlight just for you…

stalking - sure, what manufacturer wouldn’t covet a guaranteed sale of 1 entire unit? :slight_smile:

the DQGs did not break due to me trying to break them

wle

Short answer…… Nope. :wink:
I taught school for almost 30 years, I had some Jr High kids that could no doubt have “broken” a superbly heat treated steel brick if given just a bit of time…… :person_facepalming:
It always utterly amazed me at how easily they could tear something up that would have lasted me a lifetime.
And they were not doing it on purpose either………… :person_facepalming:

I think the popular S2+ is 118mm.

120.7mm on the A6, 118.8 on the S2+