now this is exactly what I need! I need to power an xhp50 in a host that takes 18650 and 17mm driver, will buy this for sure awesome.
You will need 2x 18350 in series to operate the xhp50 , i hope you already know . 
On the spec sheet it said, that you could solder a jumper on pin 1, for single cell operation. Otherwise 2 or more cells in series
With 1 cell you operate 3V leds like xp-e2 xp-g2 xp-l xm-l2 etc .
With 2 cells you operate 6V leds like xhp50 xhp70 etc .
This isn’t a boost driver so you can’t use 1 battery to operate a 6V led . That’s why you will need 2x18350 in the flashlight , with the 2-cell operation “pin” soldered and “6V parts” soldered.
ah right.
From which country you ship this driver ?
My pair shipped from Croatia.
Croatia, EU.
Time for price update : 12.9$ / 12.2€ (EU buyer can pay in € to avoid conversion fees).
Details are in OP.
Oh… now they get cheaper… Mine made it to the US yesterday!!!
Maybe he was looking to sell a set number of them before lowering the price, and yours was the one that put him over. In which case, we thank you! 
Will this fit for Convoy C8?
I would love to change the led with XHP50 OR XHP70?
This is not a buck or boost driver, it can be set up in 2S. So, with 2 18350’s you could drive a 6 volt led with this driver. That said, PM and ask if it works well for that or not… I have not gotten my first 2 in yet, so I really have not experience with them.
If set up for a 6Ved then it will work for MTG or XHP 50/70.
Hi,
Is this is FET Driver ?
Can I use it for two XHP70 in parallel , I want to give 10a to each one emitter , is this is possible with this driver ?
It is a constant current driver,but it has "software" DD option on high mode. 20Amp and two big 6V emitters would be out-of-spec for this 17mm driver.
I’ll be contacting you when i have funds.
Is the LD2 with e-switch also still available?
Yes,I can reflash driver with old LD-2 firmware.
Looking to buy at least two (more likely three) LD-3. What I’m trying to figure out is which amperage range to get.
They will go in Solarforce P60 quads (4x XP-L Hi), specifically one P1 (plastic body) and one P1D (aluminum body).
The LED MCPCB is soldered to the large hunk of kiriba-ru copper…
… so it sucks away heat fairly well, but the overall thermal management of the P60 format is not the best as we know. (And plastic is worse)
Trying to determine what is the highest amperage I can run reliably. I did read the info so I realize:
- the CC mode can be reduced a certain amount, and
- the driver can output higher currents in DD mode.
I think I’ll use the CC mode, but… maybe not?
For reference, I’m fairly responsible with my lights and not abusing them.
I am not asking “what amperage should I choose if I want to leave the light unattended on Turbo?”
Instead, I am asking “What amperage should I choose if I will always be the one handling the light, and will be quick to step it down if I think I might be overheating it?”
6A for the plastic P1 and 9A for the aluminum P1D?
9A for the plastic P1 and 12A for the aluminum P1D?
Some other recommendation?
Hmmm, I don’t know, I’m that knowledgable and responsable flashoholic too and I damaged the three 219C leds in a Reylight Ti direct drive triple because on the outside you just can not feel how hot the pill with leds get. One two-minute run on Turbo did the damage while I was not monitoring the time 
It will never happen to my S41, the copper chunk gets hot to the touch almost immediately.
So IMO be very moderate in how hard you drive the leds in a flashlight with a poor thermal path to the shell, without the direct feedback to your hands sooner or later you run it too hot and stuff gets damaged.
So 3 amps maybe? :innocent: