What did you mod today?

>>Did the S2+ with Nichia have a ZWB2 filter too?
No

The burgundy paint is very bad (nose, beard on the first photo).

Without a filter a lot of extra light. I think nichia was better in this regard. I do not have it right now.
Extra glow removes the ZWB2 filter.
But, for its price it is a good UV LED :slight_smile:

Low power at 350mA
I want to put LED in lumintop tool (or made Nanjg driver @500mA for Convoy)

That’s without optics. Naked LED on the radiator.

UV Lumintop TOOL
The same UV LED
with 10440 Li-On 500mA on the Medium mode
with 1.5V (laboratory power supply) - 300mA on the MAX

Nice!

Nice, now put a ZWB2 glass in front of that visible beam and you’re set !

If you are uncomfortable with sanding down 20mm filters (I still am) this might be an expensive solution:
http://www.ebay.nl/itm/2x-Sarin-Technologies-Diamond-Gemstone-UG1-Filter-Lens-Diam-12-5mm-Thick-2mm-/131671001813
But 12.5mm might just not fit?

So much awesomeness in one thread! Really inspiring to see the creativity and talent here, hoping to jump into modd'ing in near future but gonna be lots of baby steps to get there...

@lexel & djozz - forgive the ignorance but what's the purpose of blackening dedomed LED's? Wouldn't it be better to have a white/shiny surface for better reflection OTF?

@ZozzV6 - clever and elegant way to add magnets to a light!

I guess it is an autistic thing: a zoomie in spot modus must only show the hotspot and nothing else, no halo around the led, no rings. In actual use some stray light is often very handy but this is a compulsive thing and has not much to do with reality.

Thank you! :beer:

OK I figured that was the case (specific to zoomie's) but thanks for confirming!

P.S. Most likely it was an auto-correct thing but I think you meant artistic (and no, I'm not a grammar police just that autistic would totally change the context here...)

I guess you can call it an artistic thing too. :expressionless: :partying_face:

Reflowed my first triple!

Haven’t connected it to a driver yet, but I did a continuity check on the jumpers to make sure they weren’t shorting, and the LEDs lit up :smiley:

Well done, Erethryn! 219C’s?

Nice Job! :beer: Nichia’s :+1:

Thanks.

Yes, they’re the 5000K 219C from clemence’s GB.

Some quick testing with the ReyLight driver…

UltraTac K18 Brass with lighted switch.

Added a white lighted low profile switch with cyan GITD silicone cover.
Switch is white when unlocked and glows cyan when locked out.

That worn out look is awesome CRX. Love it!

I actually took the first steps towards actually having a small FOUNDRY on my property, lol… I have no idea what the neighbors will think, and dont really care.

and by “foundry”? I mean… I melted the aluminum, I adjusted the MELT… then cast it into the approximate shape I wanted… THIS resulting piece of metal? was what i started machining on, in my attempt to make a flashlight from scratch.

I know when i started fabricating with hand tools, from watching OLD LUMENS pictures of builds? I felt sort of “macho”. When i finally had my own “half a milling” setup going? Felt more “macho”. When i bought a small lathe and started to use it for more operations? I felt even more “manly” and “macho”.

but THIS? good lord, I am simply walking around sweating testosterone… LMAO.

==

its only baby steps in the right direction? But… if i can refine the operation and build a bigger apparatus I need? I might be able to cast a WHOLE LIGHT, ten machine out the insides, such that the entire light is one solid piece of aluminum… that would be no pill to sink losses, no sink to light body losses… nothng. It should be, i am hoping if i can make it work… other than opening the battery compartment to swap batteries? the entire whole body from inside to outside is the one gigantic “pill” and “heatsink” in one piece.

the “macho” aspect of this? It is highly labor intensive… I spent about 12 hours straight, working over a raging coal fire fed air to make it hotter… giant burns and blisters erupt INSTANTLY even through the heat-proof welding gloves… i get sunburn in the middle of winter from red-hot molten liquid aluminum… i have any number of bad cuts on my fingers from sheet metal is sharper than it looks.

i am reminded of the members name “VestureOfBlood”… IE, his name means he has “invested actual BLOOD” into his own modding and working on lights?

well, whatever “spell” was completed? I bled like a stuck pig into a vat of molten aluminum, and didnt dare drop it, because 10 hours in?? i dont want to lose all that work trying to accomplish this.

PS - this is in no way “commercially viable”, by the way… the amount of heat, the length of time, burning straight thru solid steel melt-pots in minutes… re melting mistakes over and over… all before any machining starts?? it is in no way a commercially viable thing… i am trying this just to see what its like to do it… lol

(and i am sweating testosterone all week after doing it, lol, very “macho” work)

You can buy 1 piece flashlights for example from nitecore

One is the EC4GT

But machining out the battery compartment and implement the driver will be challenging


Modded a blue Convoy S2+ host with metal clicky that I’ve had laying around for awhile.

  • Emitter: triple XPL-HI 5A2 4000K
  • Optic: Carclo 10507
  • Driver: DrJones H17F with lucidrv 2

I started by shortening the pill, the same way as on a previous mod: modding the convoy s2+ mini

After shortening the pill, I decided that rather than making this an 18500 light like the previous mod, for this mod I wanted the light to use 18650. I also wasn’t going to install a side-switch since the whole point of these newer S2+ was to take advantage of the superb metal clicky.

With the shortened pill, there was far too much space in the battery compartment for an 18650. Initially, I was thinking to try my hand at shortening the battery tube via the “human lathe” method. However with a bit more thought I realized there was a much easier way to shorten the light:

I pulled out the hacksaw and chopped the back of the head off. Then I filed a couple mm off the end of the screw threads at both ends of the battery tube. Result is a Convoy S2+ triple that is 12mm shorter than stock (104 mm modded compared to 118 mm stock). The modded light can also use the 18350 battery tube and an 18350 cell (total length 72 mm with 18350).

Additional work to be done on this light:

  • grind off the bottom-most threads on the head to make room for the battery tube o-ring (until this is done there’s no o-ring between the tube and head).
  • wait for illuminated switch assemblies to arrive.
  • possible remove blue anodizing and polish the bare aluminum.