[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

Thanks Maukka, interesting viewpoint.

BTW have you noticed that the sm403 turn rather green at high currents (specs), the opposite of the other smxxx and of Cree diodes.

Here’s a 219C CRI90 sm403 on different currents in a Thrunite TC12. Doesn’t change much in tint.

Looks like proof of pwm

No PWM on the Thrunite.

In that case: wow for the Nichia 219C then! :open_mouth: :slight_smile:

I tried. I also have an ugly yellow spot in the center.

144A yellow spot fix: any mild diffuser will do, OP reflector, colour mixing TIR, or any TIR specially designed for 144A (some Ledil)
The wider the beam angle of the optics/reflector the less the yellowing effect.
Unlike XHP50, sanding or roughing the lens dome has minimal effect. Only enlarge/smoothen the edge of the hotspot. I tried it
Slicing the dome will most probably works (plus more throw and slightly less output).

I think it is much. To compare with it, take the D50 point.
If I use x,y= 0.3455,0.351 for this point it gives in my calculations CCT= 5002 K and an offset from the BB curve of 4.6 CIELuv. This offset can be clearly seen as greenish. (1 CIELuv is about the least color difference that can be seen as you know).
Your low to high distance I would guess is around 7-8 CIELuv. That amount I usually correct with a Lee filter “279 Eighth Minus Green” (not so usable here as tint changes).
I only brought this up because I made a S2+ with 219C CRI90 sm403 with PWM at 2.8A and it looked surprisingly green until I lowered the PWM current to 700mA. The specs also shows that tint shoots up in y value with current, somewhat compensated by temperature but only the high CRI model has this speciality.

Also remember than even 3 steps grouping is still an ellipse, no a point

In the data sheet, not all grouping ellipses follow the BBL symmetrically. The cooler temp slowly leaves the BBL as the temp raised. The 573 lower part ellipse barely touched the BBL. This risky balance is what makes up for better efficiency in 219C I guess.
For those who really don’t want even the slightest green sw45k 219B is the best bet, far away below the green zone. If you still want the the 219C, stick with the 3 steps and no higher than sm403.

May be, you know, when 219C (9050 3-step) sw40 & sw45 will be available ?

The SM403 4000k looks absolutely beautiful out of this C8-Triple!

The only Green I see is when it’s OFF!

:smiley: :+1:

Official information:

- NVSL219B-V1 Ra 9080 sw40 late April

- NVSL219B-V1 Ra9080 sw45k uncertain availability

  • NVSx219CT ALL series late April

Thanks for the update. The Ra9080s are worth the wait! :slight_smile:

I think I better take shots of all the LED’s left from the last sale thread. Sadly I have no NVSL219B-V1 Ra9080 left to be included in the test. Later tonight, it’s still too bright here

Thanks!.
Have a great day!.

OK guys, I decided to build a comparison light bar using all the left over LEDs from all my sales. It's a good thing for future reference. The LED installed are various CCT and CRI of 144AME, 319ATE, and 219CT only. I don't have any 219B left to test. But due to the lack of input voltage required to drive all of them (~50V total), I can't post all the LEDs tint shot for now. I need to built my boost rig setup later. Shot in various current from 0,01A all the way up to 2A.

I only post 0,01A, 0,1A, 0,3A, 0,7A, 1,4A, and 2A tint shots. Maukka was right, no noticeable tint shift to the naked eyes. I even confirmed these shots to some of my friends, they're all agreed.

White Balance set at my standard 5600K. Shot with Olympus OMD EM5, Zuiko EZ lens 12mm-50mm. Exposure was speed adjusted to give relatively equal brightness, no change in aperture. RAW files processed using DxO optics software to normalize the geometry only. No other changes were made. Captioning and contact sheet were done using ACDSee photo editing program.

Hope this helps,

Clemence

Thanks for the effort , clemence!
You’re right, it does’nt reviel much tint shifts nor the tint shift in maukkas measurements, post #584.
Edit:
What it shows on my screen, though, is a little green content in the sm403, but not much.
Thanks for your advice in post #586. Perhaps 219B sw45k is the way to go for me.

I was also considering using the h17f for a single emitter build. However, as I understand it, these nichia219Cs will burn out at the currents the driver allows. I have not tested this yet, but let me know if you do and it works out.

Correct, the H17F is simply a PWM FET driver, unless you can have it setup to limit the max duty to around ~70% it will drive the LED with over 11A. Which is far too much.

If you limit the max duty it works ok, you will just loose around 10-15% output compared to a true constant current driver.