a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

Hello, do you think this lamp would be a good headlamp? Maybe better than skilhunt h03 for using as floody headlamp??

I don’t think the stock optic is very floody. I’m considering switching it when I make some other changes.

Here are some comparison shots vs a Convoy S2+ 8x7135 16ft/10m from a wall.

Is there PWM on this stock light ?.
Seems L & M has it.
If it has,…Any idea what Hz?.
Thanks.

Thanks for thosepics T18, gives a good overview of this light!

Your very welcome The Miller, yes some previously talked about non issues needed to be clearly put to rest and glad to have been able to do so. Thanks again.

GOT MILK?

These are not the best pics but thought I’d throw them up here anyhow, used a Convoy grey 18350 tube with the E2L head and switch and it fits and works, just thought I’d mention it.
And yes I did, I mucked up a LED, told you that board was tough to get out, so it’s only one, get the hot air out, might mention also the retainer is a little whatever you call it, bear… thin and the pocket for the driver is not very deep so it’s sort of difficult to get aligned and get the retainer on and centered, nothing unusual. Makes a nice pocket triple though, so once I change the driver and LED’s I can put that quad on the shelf.



30 kHz.

Got mine today. It’s a very nicely finished light and surprisingly short compared to other similar 18650 lights (S2+, E2, A6).

Here’s some measurements from the “warm yellow” version.

Slightly green tint in the middle of the beam but not too distracting, since the average tint is quite neutral. The outermost edge has a bit of a blue tint (relative to hotspot).

Since the light uses PWM (30 kHz) on low and mid, there’s no tint shift in different outputs.

How much shorter is it vs an s2+?

S2+ 117.16mm
E2L 114.17mm
E2L with Convoy 18350 tube, 80mm

Oh. So 3mm shorter.

Yes Sir that is correct, I suppose I could have just said that, but had all the numbers handy for someone else so dropped them all on you…ha ha
In real life as you know it’s not that much shorter by eyeball, but when you get into the shorty tube, now it’s getting into a very nice pocket friendly triple and comfortable after carrying the copper heat finned shorty quad for awhile now…

Thanks, so 30 is quite high and quite good?.
I can’t see the PWM really unless from the camera on iPhone.

I see Reylight lights are 9hz and 18hz.

Yep, there’s no way 30 kHz is visible to the naked eye.

Alright so I was talking about my troubles with the glue in the host thread, but I suppose it’s more applicable to the whole light as that is what I purchased to mod instead of waiting on the possible host. I changed my mind this morning and decided I would get it done today.

So I wanted to just swap the driver, but I couldn’t even get to the wires on the mcpcb because of the glue:

I didn’t get any pictures of my driver cavity because honestly I didn’t feel like bothering. I do have this pic of the stock driver:

You can still see some of the goo on the top left chip. There was a bit more and it was all over the wires. So what I tried to do was yank the wires from the driver side out. I knew they would rip and it wouldn’t be pretty, but I was hoping some of the goo would come with them… it didn’t. I ended up snipping them deep on the driver side and then using a thin nail and rubber mallet to push the wires towards the mcpcb and the wires went quite easy. I found out the goo is quite brittle and does not like shock very well so I just kept using slightly larger nails driving them through the stuff until it all cracked away. I never mentioned this before, but there was even a little glue on my retaining ring… which explains why that was so hard to break free in the first place. I replaced the driver with the MTN 17DD using Bistro firmware. The board is a little bit thinner than the old one and maybe even not quite as wide, but the retaining ring still tightens down on it just fine. I had to solder the leads onto the mcpcb while still glued into the flashlight head which took a little trial and error… it also isn’t very pretty, but it works. If it keeps working for me I’ll try to get some beam shots up of how it was vs now vs stock S2+ 8x 7135. I would like to get a few more optics for it so I’ll order those soon.

Thanks very much for that info.

Any idea yet how much run time you get with an 18350 on high?

Great job Jtm94, and regarding your experience with that goop of whatever it is, I have to say that the pics I posted of my light showing no goop seems to be irrelevant.
I now believe thanks to Jtm94 that his experience is more likely what you’ll also experience if you buy this light built, it’s very irritating to me.
I am happy to have not gotten this stuff though.!
Really great job Jtm94, I know it must have been a pain.

Alright here is a comparison album starting with the S2+ 8x7135 4300-4500K, then the stock E2L warm yellow option, then the same E2L fitted with the MTN 17DD driver. All shots taken at 16ft/10m from a grey basement wall in complete darkness. Level 1 the moonlight of Bistro doesn’t appear and neither does level 2 really.

Link to imgur album

Would I benefit from a tail spring bypass in this? I’m going to do it regardless, but spent most of my free time just getting the driver in today. Sadly I don’t have any trustworthy volt meters to measure amps or anything like that.

This thing gets quite warm. Haven’t left it on turbo for very long, but it gets quite hot to touch the head within 15-20 seconds.

Looks to me like your E2L on high fits right between your bistro L4-5, your really pumping some lumens there, that looks really great, I don’t think you need a bypass if it’s getting uncomfortable hot in 15 –20 secs.
Fantastic job and now know where I’m going with mine, thank you for the share…!! I wonder what could beef up the heat sinking? Besides some kind of goop.