Not to minimise the situation, but sometimes, $#!+ happens. Thereâs pressure to get product out the door vs to lose sales. Someone comes up with a workaround, maybe a good one, maybe a crappy one. It nominally âworksâ. Products get refitted, and go out the door.
Take a voltmeter. The mfr canât get the reference they want, so have to âmake doâ with a cheaper one, maybe a stinkier 5% tolerance instead of 1%. Most people poking batteries and AC outlets probably wouldnât even notice, but those who need and want something more accurate (and are willing to pay for it) would be outraged.
Or a âlipstickâ type power-pack that is rated 3000mAH but only has a 2500mAH cell inside. Most bozos just topping off their phones and mp3 players would hardly notice, but others whoâd take it apart would flip out at seeing only 2500mAH.
So yeah, most schmos whoâd buy a bright flashlight might not even notice anythingâs off. LEDs are robust enough to take the abuse if heatâs not drawn out as well as a âgoodâ host can do. But itâs still a crappy solution, going through multiple layers of dielectric and thermal-goop.
The problem is that someone at TF decided that was a good workable solution. Iâm disappointed, absolutely, but the lightâs not totally unusable. At worst, donât swap in a FET driver that crowbars a high-amp cell right across the LED.
Like I said, Iâd be okay with a fix, whether a ârealâ reflector replacement, or Cu spacer to clean up the thermal path.
Yep, just got that in a PM. Will work it out through Amazon channels.
Even with the âwrongâ reflector, theyâve got a great beam, so I canât wait to see what itâs like with the ârightâ reflector!
Will have to figure out the dimensions of the stars+disc, try to whip up a Cu spacer on my own. Donât really have the tools or a machine-shop, other than files and such to shape the critter manually (shaving it down if need be), so it might be a bit tedious.
I think the way to go would be
Get two copper DTP stars
Put a little solderpaste between them, and where the led goes
Reflow led and join the two in one go.
But I donât have this light only an original second run bought from member X3 and I like it a lot
I was oblivious to the latest developments in this thread until just now. I ordered a couple VG10 during the group buy, I just checked tracking and they are scheduled to be delivered today. Iâll open them up and see what the guts look like, but I guess I should anticipate it will be :POOPEMOTICON: I will report back with my findings tonightâŚ
But it seems like Thorfire is trying to make it right, which is what matters. For now I will give them the benefit of the doubt until proven otherswise. I will contact them and give them the opportunity if I have concerns.
There is a Bright side to the VG10âs that have the stack of crap under the emitterâŚ.
Parts for the Convoy M2 will fit. Here is my latest VG10 using the M2 Quad spacer from kiriba-ru. I have not tried the M2 reflector alone but will in a few minutes. Theoritically it should work and I have a couple spare reflectors from M2 quad builds. And just a heads up⌠I did have to reduce the OD of the brass ring that came witht he M2 quad parts to fit inside the head of the VG10.
Also I tried to swap heads onto a VG10 that did not have the crap under emitter with one that does and they do Not thread together⌠No-Lego.
Despite the issues with the current batch, I still like the VG10 and would be interested in placing another order. If I placed another order before the GB closes on 3/21, would I receive lights from the same batch with the bad LED spacers? Or could it be confirmed that I would receive units from a good batch?
Has anything happened as far as those who ordered lights through Amazon? Last PM left off with me offering the 2 order-IDs from Amazon (because how else can they know who ordered what, naturally), but got nothing in reply since.
Am I supposed to grex through Amazon under âcontact sellerâ or raise a complaint (âproduct not as describedâ) or something? (The latter sounds kinda negative, so Iâd want to avoid that unless specifically told by TF to go that route.)
Only reason Iâm getting antsy is because I just got a new fancy card in the mail with the chip inside, and has a completely different number and everything, so if the offer is to toss me some bux to the old card on which I charged the lights, thatâd be defunct once I activate the new card.
Hope you get resolution soon LB. Please keep us posted.
You could get 2 or 3 pre-1982 US pennies, clean them and pound them flat. Once you have them to the diameter you want, you can stack them to see if they get you high enough. If they are a little shy, reflow them to each other and that will increase the height some. If you don't want to reflow, thermal paste should do. If too tall, pound them some more and file the perimeter to get to fit in the head again.
Good question. Also, maybe ofter the remaining lights for sale as hosts. They will sell fast if the price is reasonable.
I just got another 3 I ordered a while ago, never opened the boxes yet. Just for s&g I decided to do that, test them Just Because, as the first 2 I got worked perfectly.
First one seemed DOA. Took the 30Q from the VG10 I carry in my bag, so itâs known-good. Half-press the switch, nothing. Full-press the switch. Still nothing. Loosen then snug up everything. Hmm, unwanted TCLO? Unscrew the tailcap, take off the tac-ring, replace, press. Still nothing. Bugger. Press HARD, repeatedly. Aha! Momentary bright flashes! Random flickers and flashes, reminds me of the problem I had with one of my recent F13s. âBypassâ the switch with a key (cell to body), and it seems to work fine, nice and steady, good mode-switching. Seems like a bolloxed switch. Eyeball the switch, and it looks like one of the unscrewing-holes on the retaining ring is drilled out bigger, and someone let the drill-bit wander along the ring. Hmmm⌠Not Good.
Second one seemed to work fine.
Third one, a half-wonky switch, some âmissingâ and flickering. Not as bad as #1, but enough to make me nervous.
Okay, my confidence is a bit shaken. Damn! I figured a quick patch-up would get them working fine, but now Iâm not so sure. Without replacing the switches (any heavy-duty FC Omtens out there??), Iâm not sure I could put together reliable hosts.
The retaining ring on the finicky switch may be too tight. Had that before on the Square bodied SW in a TF. Think the spacer squeezes the SW body too hard. May understand when you open a tail sw and see the plastic ring design.
TF offered to send me a replacement or refund. i want a good light rather than money of course. i specifically asked for a ânormalâ one, one without two spacers. and the next email i got from them telling me that the light has been sent out already. i hope they understand what ânormalâ means. fingers crossed.
Hmm, that jogs some memory for some reason⌠maybe those cheapie 3ĂAAA lights. Squeeze it too tightly and it stops working, that kind of thing.
Hmm, may be a blessing in disguise. Thinking about replacing the switch with the spare, Iâm now wondering if one of those FC switches would fit into the tailcap of my (RC) â502. Thatâd be totally tits!