Currently, they are being sold by MTN. I’ve asked the question in the H17F thread.
On a more on topic note, I finished my s41 quad build with 2x 5000k and 2x 4000k and it does give a more balanced tint. Personally, the 5000k was a bit too cool for me and the 4000k a bit too warm.
This may be a bit subjective since I’m eyeballing it, but it appears there is a bit of green when mixing the 2 different LEDs. I’ll have to use it more, and also try it without the lens to see if anything changes.
Strange, isn’t it?
It’s as if it’s like cool - cool - neutral - neutral - warm - warm, with only slight differences among the 2 of each main colour temperature.
It is what it is. I’m about to post the complete tint shots (minus the 219B 9080) very soon. Still repairing the boost driver I kept for a long time.
To me it looks more like
cool - neutral - warm - warm - warm - warm
perception is individual
BTW, the sm303 and sm273 gets almost the same as the current increase. Also notice the red really pronounced in very low current. This also validate Maukka’s statement somewhere in BLF.
My power supply reached it’s limit at 51,02 watts (52,13 V & 0,98 A)
Got my 219C 353’s in today… I think 3 of them and 1 219C 403 will go into a quad X5. Maybe it will be 2 and 2 not sure yet. Will be driven by a CC LD3 at 12 amps! Going to be a fun Hi CRI build that is for sure.
Hmmm… The 503 and 573 have higher Vf than 403, 353, 303 and 273, don’t they?
So inparallel the ones with lower Vf will draw the most Amperes.
Yes, lower Vf=more amps. I have 1 triple build with 219C’s and it can get into crazy amps if you use a good cell and do bypasses. My hope is to get good performance and maintain control with any battery by using the LD3.
Sorry, i misread your comment, but now i see you want to combine 353 with 403.
(i somehow read / thought you meant 503 :person_facepalming: )
I didn’t have too much play time to test each types separately, hence the non uniform brightness.
Ran them all in series. Different Vf is always a problem especially in ultra low current.
No problem… 5000k is a little to cool for my liking. I really like between 4500k and about 3750k. Thus the mix of the 2 leds.
I highly doubt that the LD-3 will handle a quad build.
At 12A it will have to dissipate roughly 6W+. It is only rated for 3W with thermal cubes IIRC. Same issue I have ran into with the Texas commander.
Although you should be able to get away with a normal FET driver in a quad. I have an S41 quad 219C 4000k and it works fine. It pulls around 21-22A in turbo but that is ok as it is around 5A per LED which is about perfect.
Although it gets VERY hot. If you use long thin wires you could drop that down a bit. 24AWG is about the thinnest I would go.
Isn’t that a bit too high for 219C?
Nope, they make peak lumens at around 6A, so 5-6A is perfect. I tested them to 12A and they lived just fine, they just put out the same lumens at 12A as they do at 2.5A except with a ton more heat.
Just curious, are there any multi output (3-4 outlet) drivers small enough for flashlight applications? That would be a good option.
How about RGBW drivers? We can use 1/2/3/4 output or even combine them all.
There are some great branded multi colour flashlights, right?
Interesting.
So why does Nichia state the max current at 1.8A?
https://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NVSW219C-E.pdf
For the same reason the Cree says that an XP-L2 max is 3A but we run them at 8A+. They rate them first off for non-DTP mcpcb which makes a massive difference. Then they also need a safety factor built in.
Heck I tested the XP-L2 to 15A and it still worked! These latest gen LED’s without bond wires are super tough when mounted on a DTP star and have a good heat path.
What driver are you using in your S41?
I think it is.
Efficiency suffers considerably.
Up to some 2 Amperes they’re 100 Lumen per Watt though (iirc)