Brinyte B158 mod thread

Thanks, nice results (forgot to say that the first time).

Part 4?
Stacked up copper fins and spacer rings(now 1.4mm) with brazing paste and extra paste up top (extra tube gets cut off) and ran the torch around it a few extra times to be sure of adequate wicking. Then the hot bath in Fuze Clean FS. Pretty regular on the spacing and it even still fits the tube. I’ll have to wait to clean it up and cut it to size but this was a major hurdle.

Nice progress Rufusbduck, this is a major mod, very hard to do. A bit of advice for cleaning /polishing the inside of those cooling fins: put it in a wise, find a tight fit rope and polish it (with polish paste) until satisfied moving that rope back and forth. Apply moderate pressure.

What brazing products do you use for this? I purchased a Durafix rods and they do the job great but don’t flow nicely like solder. It is thick material, very hard to sand.

What I’ve done in the past is spin the part on the drill press with a fold of successive grits of w/d paper in the gaps. Depending on the gap I’ll fold the sandpaper over different thicknesses of sheet stock to sand/polish the faces of the fins. I used to use only Radnor stay silv brazing wire and white paste flux but last year started using an SRA Products brazing paste/flux combo (similar to solder paste) for some things where secondary brazing steps favor the use of something with a lower melting point. I used the wire to braze both the main tube and the tube the spacers were cut from and the paste for the assembly. In both cases SRA Fuze Clean FS is used to dissolve the glasslike flux and heat scale prior to grinding and polishing. The reccomended water bath temp is at or above 160F. A sonic cleaner allows a lower concentration to be used so maybe I’ll get one someday. It’s pretty amazing stuff that completely removes the flux in a minute or less.

Yo Lexel, same problem here.

There are too much in my case. I do not know if I will succeed to remove all of it and to take this ring…
What you use to remove solder ? Solder wick ?

If I fail to remove all of it and not release the ring, it is good idea to solder driver directly on brass pill without a ring ?

Has anyone tried a UV emitter in a B158?

The plastic lens will block a large portion of the UV radiation.

Thanks!

Wow, looking good! You do great stuff, Rbd.

Question: How malleable are those copper fins? I’d be worried about bending them in use and never being able to get them straight again.

Ignore my question if it is mostly a light built for show / aesthetics.

All too malleable and yes it’s probably more for looks. They would need to be thicker and not annealed but at least they won’t stick out much past adjacent parts.

Nice ribs :wink: But it could be polished even better and then clear lacquer to protect copper oxidation?

I’m not done with it yet and you can see a lip on the smallest one still. I don’t like lacquer on metal, when it fails it’s hard to fix.

I measured my modded B158 dedomed XML2 U4-1A with stock driver

Cold start with 2.8A get me to 150kLux
5980 measured at 5m
770m throw

Nice results.

But please don’t go with throw numbers in meters of ANSI standard cause it sucks in most parts of the world except darkest ones.

150 kcd is more likely 400- 500m of usable distance :slight_smile:

rose gold plating would be best.
Looks like copper but doesn’t oxidize.

Yes. But the simplest way is to polish the copper and properly(thinly) applied lacquer should last… This is well known method for central heating pipes. They don’t oxidize after such treatment.

Got my B158B with XP-L HI today.
The UI is hopeless. Maybe I’m not tactical enough or whatever, but it really doesn’t work for me.

Can I flash Bistro to it or do I have to replace the driver completely?

If they still use the same Nanjg driver then Biscotti will be perfect firmware for it. In order to have Bistro firmware you will need to swap the driver.

Thanks, there’s hope. :slight_smile: