Olight S Mini

Sorry man. I’m really new to the light/battery world. The batteries are new. I bought it with the nitecore d2 charger. It says it charges up to about 4.3v but it has 3.7 on the label. Does this help?

I know the D2 and we all started out as beginners, so welcome to the hobby.

4.30v coming hot off the charger is a tad high, but should settle down to around 4.20v (+/- .05v) after say 20 minutes. You should probably buy a digital multi meter for checking things, if you’re going to be playing with this stuff. Trust, but verify and all of that noise.

3.6v/3.7v is just the nominal voltage for lithium-ion cells that we use in most lights. These cells come hot off the charger at ~4.20v. Some chemistries are 3.8v (4.35v hot off the charger) and still yet, some are 3.2v (3.60v hot off the charger,) so things can get confusing.

What you have, I refer to as a ‘16340’ 3.7v cell, which varies in voltage from the dimensionally similar RCR123, which covers the 3.2v offerings (equivalent to the CR123A primary lithium cells for cameras/lights.)

Anyhow, getting back to your cell crapping out on ‘turbo.’ Maybe it’s just a bad cell, as it seems to be cutting off immediately and not lasting say 5 minutes?

I’d still look for the IMR chemistry 16340s and try an Efest, AW or AWT, whatever quality IMR cell you can find and see if it isn’t the light that is at issue?

You have to start ruling things out.

Chris

Wow. You are awesome. Thanks so much for the help. The light either turns off immediately or steps down after about 3 seconds. I’ll grab an imr cell. I’ll keep you posted on how it goes. Thanks again for your help!

FWIW, I run my S-mini with a Trustfire IMR 16340 from FastTech (the red ones) and never had any shut off of the light.
With the Olight 16340 however…even my S1 trips the protection of the Olight batts !

Those are pretty cool looking.

On my S-Mini, it will refuse to go into turbo if the cell voltage isn’t high enough. The cell type generally makes a lot of difference for this sort of thing, since they typically come in either high-capacity or high-amperage varieties. The high-capacity ones get a lot more voltage sag, so they stop being able to do turbo sooner.

Smini brass received without sealed pack. When olight will produce polished and sandblasted stainless steel smini? It will the best EDC.

they should do a new version of the sbaton/mini, felt that the s mini was pointless more or less it didnt do anything better then older s1 baton did and wihout magnetic clip kinda pointless to justify buy.

Still love my bb ti. Small, nice looking and the interface is still one of the best.

I love my Smini Sus…but please… Olight!!! when the Smini in aluminium?

Yes, this !
What I love from my S-mini : the size obviously, the UI (much faster and usable than the S1), the brightness
What I don’t like : The clip that is not adjustable, no magnet (but you can use the S1 tailcap), the lack of an alu version

From the S1 to the S-mini, they made a few changes that I consider upgrades:

  • Smaller size.
  • Clip stays in one place, doesn’t rotate and scratch the host.
  • Clip “fingers” removed and hex shape of head converted to round, so things don’t stick out any more.
  • Clip has a rounded lift point instead of square lift; less likely to catch on things.
  • Lanyard hole added to clip.

I don’t really care either way about the magnet. It was useful sometimes, but I also had to take care to keep it away from magnet-sensitive materials, and it got the tail scratched up a lot faster.

It’d be nice to have an aluminum version, and would be nice if *all* versions were available in neutral white.

Would also be nice if they’d let me upgrade the firmware to give it battcheck (at minimum). Ideally also optional ramping, reversing, configurable number of levels, and some extra blinky modes.

This is a bit off topic but I’m looking for a little sympathy. And you folks seem like you’ll appreciate what I have, er… had, er… still have but…

I hate olight for glueing their lights!
I purchase an s30 ti sandblasted limited addition from eBay
It wouldn’t turn on.
I hate olight for gluing their lights!
I thought I could fix it.
I thought, hmm… titanium, that sounds indestructible.
Heat gun, leather strap, vice slip, scratched, more heat gun.
Titanium light in pieces, faded from the heat.
Did I mention, I hate olight for gluing their lights!
Driver test=working fine
Led test=working fine
What!

Ok, that’s pretty much my story. The scratch is small but bothers me. The color faded a bid from the heat though one might not notice without another one to compare. The kicker though, is that there wasn’t anything wrong with the light. I think it was simply a poor contact somewhere. Idk? So now I’m trying to decide what to do with it. sigh

If the S30 is like the S10, isn’t the bezel a screw-in type? I have a S10 ti and IIRC the bezel unscrews relatively easily by pressing it against a sheet of rubber and twisting.

Or if it’s like the S1, it might be a press fit? I’ve been meaning to mod my copper S-mini with a neutral white emitter… already have the emitter somewhere around here, but I haven’t pulled the bezel off yet to do the mod. It should only need a disposable knife and some patient, gentle prying.

Just do it :sunglasses: . These light are so mich nicer with a good tint. The neutral that olight used was also crap. Replaced mine with a 5D and it’s just such a nice edc.

The S30 bezel is screwed, at least it is n the Alu version.
But Olight love treadlock, and use a ton of it (the red one) so you have to use brute force to unscrew it.
Rubber inner tube from a bicycle and a vise plier will get it but be gentle or the pliers will go through the rubber and scratch the surface :open_mouth:

Anyone willing to change the emitter in my copper S-mini? If so, what would be the cost?

Where are you ?

NC, USA

I ould have done it if you were frome EU, but there are plenty of better modder than me on your side of the pond :smiley: