Brinyte B158 mod thread

Thanks!

Wow, looking good! You do great stuff, Rbd.

Question: How malleable are those copper fins? I’d be worried about bending them in use and never being able to get them straight again.

Ignore my question if it is mostly a light built for show / aesthetics.

All too malleable and yes it’s probably more for looks. They would need to be thicker and not annealed but at least they won’t stick out much past adjacent parts.

Nice ribs :wink: But it could be polished even better and then clear lacquer to protect copper oxidation?

I’m not done with it yet and you can see a lip on the smallest one still. I don’t like lacquer on metal, when it fails it’s hard to fix.

I measured my modded B158 dedomed XML2 U4-1A with stock driver

Cold start with 2.8A get me to 150kLux
5980 measured at 5m
770m throw

Nice results.

But please don’t go with throw numbers in meters of ANSI standard cause it sucks in most parts of the world except darkest ones.

150 kcd is more likely 400- 500m of usable distance :slight_smile:

rose gold plating would be best.
Looks like copper but doesn’t oxidize.

Yes. But the simplest way is to polish the copper and properly(thinly) applied lacquer should last… This is well known method for central heating pipes. They don’t oxidize after such treatment.

Got my B158B with XP-L HI today.
The UI is hopeless. Maybe I’m not tactical enough or whatever, but it really doesn’t work for me.

Can I flash Bistro to it or do I have to replace the driver completely?

If they still use the same Nanjg driver then Biscotti will be perfect firmware for it. In order to have Bistro firmware you will need to swap the driver.

Thanks, there’s hope. :slight_smile:

Just to echo that, yes, Biscotti is possible. Bistro is for attiny25, the included nanjg driver is attiny13a based.

Just pull out the pill. Unsoldered and carefully remove the led board (they used thermal adhesive). Push the wires into the pill. Using a small nail aimed outward toward the edge of the driver, give it a couple light taps and it should come out. They used a pressure-fit contact board that is connected to a floating nanjg driver. Good luck!

IMO I see nothing wrong with mentioning the ANSI standard throw numbers to the measured lux value. Using “usable distance” as a metric has no point because it is obviously going to be different for someone in Siberia compared to someone in New York City. There is a reason it is the ANSI standard - so that we can all compare equally around the world. It’s not perfect, but it is a standard that we can all use equally.

Using throw has its place because it is closer to how a non-flashaholic would rate a light - how powerful the light is scales close to linearly with how powerful it looks. Using kcd or lux is fine for flashaholics who understand the nuances of how that values is measured/calculated, but not real useful for the layperson who doesn’t know how light power scales exponentially.

edit:

On-topic: In B158 modding news, I used a dedomed SST-40 with FET driver and hit 270kcd. That was just quickly put together the other night, I don’t know yet if the SST-40 will be durable for long times with its low Vf and high amp draw. I tried chemical dedoming of an XP-L W2 for the first time last night, but it wasn’t clean and it left silicon remaining on the phosfor and didn’t hit high numbers compared to dedomed XM-L2 U4 and dedomed SST-40.

Yeah. Nothing wrong man…

Except no one is speaking to people what they really can expect from ANSI distance numbers… I mean on what will happen if they strictly stick to it.

So someone could be greatly disappointed to buy light that claims certain throw distance by ANSI standard and upon turning on that light to realize fact that he got only 50-60% of that distance and he really needed that claimed distance.

I was also among such people… So for example when I bought my first Super thrower at that time(Tiablo A9) that claimed to be 280 meters light(around 20kcd) and upon turning that light finding that it has only around 100-120 meters at fair dark nights is something that made me furious… So nowhere near that claimed distance and I really needed flashlight that could reach that claimed distance at that time…

After collecting some experience; read ime i found that true distance numbers are 50-60% of ANSI claimed distance numbers when used at very dark nights and even less than that when used in moonlight, star nights or snowy night conditions.

People know what they see. And since I have 10/10 eye sight because of my work I can only recommend people to listen to my advice otherwise they could be disappointed.

But man nothing wrong with ANSI… After I figured out my deduction formula I really know what distance I can expect from claimed ANSI flashlight distance. I just say people should be warned what they can expect out of flashlight.

And sure it is very nice to hear that for example 270kcd light throws 1039 meters.
Sounds excellent and no one will be disappointed with that throw that is for sure cause it really have enough throw for any human perception and even for people with bad sight but it will never reach that claimed ansi distance in RL.

Now about B158… 270 kcd in B158 are respective results but SST 40 should be very hot and very short performer at 8A current draw? So after minute or so it will drop to 200kcd?

hi ,i am looking into buying this light with a xpl hi for the throw ,but for the love of God cannot find a remote switch anywhere.
Can i get a replacement tail for this ? so i can dyi me one.
Or would i be better served with another light ? (need only throw)

if you want the maximum throw Then use a flashlight with a bigger Lens
The Uniquefire T75 uses a 75mm Lens That’s why most hunters use it

The T67 (67mm lens) is also Great but has a slightly less range than the T75

the Brynite uses a 50mm lens, it is a good thrower but the Uniquefire ones have alot of accessories like remote switches, Pills and such.

Remote switches are tricky because they often have a very high voltage drop

There are very few useful remotes who use a FET and battery to have the same or less resistance like the switch

I am thinking of doing a remote PCB that contains a small FET and battery for DIY

I am interested in switches for single 18650 fet lights.

Normally with generic monkey tail switch around 40% of performance drop will happen which is really not acceptable in my book so I toss all stupid tail switches I tried… None of commercial switches worked good with my single 18650 fet driver setup.

I know there is a way like making own straight cable 18 awg wires soldered on some kind of thin… I don’t know to find a word for it but it would be V shaped thingy that latches only when V shape merged into I shape…