Much better tint shots now. More balanced brightness between 144AM and the rest 319A and 219C. Used two different power supplies
Wow wonderful pictures, where does one get these SM355s ?
The sm355 319A delivery was much too late. I got it when I finished sending the packets to Texas_Ace and Chouster
But those sm353 219A were offered in the sale too.
I had my Acebeam EC50 II modded with a Nichia 144A 4500K R9050. The tint is rather nice (very much like daylight) and it is rather bright in the highest modes. The only problem ist that the LED produces a very warm corona even though the light has an OP-reflector. I am now trying to find a TIR-lens with built in diffusor that will produce a similar beam, but with a more even tint.
(It’s in German)
Very nice built Driver! Thanks for the link.
Yes, TIR is better suited for 144AM. To me, the beam is much better than XHP50 with any optics.
FYI, never try to roughen the led dome. It has minimal effect while somewhat lowers the output. Mild diffuser on refector also works very nice. You might want to try luminit 5deg, it makes huge difference.
Could somebody do comparison beamshots with the R9080 219B and a R9050 Nichia? Maybe a magazine cover or some flowers to show the color differences. Preferably with similar color temperatures.
I built a triple for a customer this weekend, will see what I can do. The 9080 is so perfect! Now I need some for me. Any one want to sell a few?
Not sure that these will help alot, but all were shot at 4500k and all leds except the 7A are within 1000k of 4500k. It was cold and windy outside and my daughter and I got cold. We have better nights this week and I may redo this work with the camera on auto.
XM-L2 4C
XP-L Hi 5A2
XM-L2 5C1
XM-L2 7A2
219C SW403
219B-V1 SW45k
Well that was quick, thanks!
Sorry the pics kinda suck, it was really cold and windy!
Received my order today. Thank you very much.
I just used up the last of my 219B’s. I built a quad VG-10 with them and it is amazing. Around ~2100 lumens but a truly amazing tint. Nice and floody as well (although less floody then I expected) and perfect for a photo light. Already used it to great success for some extra lighting for some pictures.
In a quad setup with a TA driver and 20AWG wires it only pulls around ~10A on a HE2 battery, I expected more but glad at the results due to the heat of almost 40W being a bit more then the VG-10 can handle.
Now to wait for some more of these. I was doing some experiments last night with my EDC options. All LED’s have the dome on.
A single 219C 4000k will do ~775 lumens and 143m of throw at 2.5A and ~1100 lumens with 182m of throw on turbo with 6A.
A triple 219C 4000k will do ~875 lumens and ~92m of throw (84m of throw with a 15011 optic but more flood) at 2.5A. Going to 2100 lumens and 140m of throw (133m with 15011 optic) on turbo at ~16A (didn’t measure it but I think it was around here).
A triple 219B 9080 does ~800 lumens and ~96m of throw at 2.5A going to ~1750 lumens and 144m of throw on turbo at ~10A.
Based on these results I am not seeing any reason to not use the 219B triple as my EDC as it gives me the best of both throw and lumens. Now to decide if it is worth ripping apart 2 lights to build a EDC triple 219B now or wait for the next batch to become available and build a new light then……
The gain decrease in lumen from 2,5A to 10A and to 16A is amazingly steep. I imagine the heat they create must be more than 60C at the body
Is anybody know where to buy mcpcb for 144 16/14mm, 1.6mm , noDTP?
I like 144 in H03 host, but without proper mcpcb xhp50 is more convenient to install…
Here are some: Testing a custom made 16mm Nichia 119 copper core board (non-DTP), edit:sold out
But you need to scratch the pads a little bigger.
He used it in his test: Nichia 144A series, an output test of a 6500K 70 CRI sample. Nov 7th: added a test of a 5700K R9050 version of the 144A
And make spacer 0.6mm, and applay 2 layers of thermal paste. So it not for 144 and not 1.6mm.
Place the spacer for optics on top of it rather than using two layers of thermal paste or solder.
That is a great idea, scratch the solder mask off the entire two traces of the board and solder two 0.6mm copper plates on top covering (most of) them (triangles will do the job). It will give you an almost (or entire) DTP performance. It will be a pain to solder the wires then, so make sure that you already apply solder blobs on the wire-pads during reflow!
Don’t forget to apply pressure while soldering those two copper plates. Thicker is better (if no optics involved). If you use aluminum reflector you can connect one of them to the reflector to get double sided cooling (isolate the other one)
djozz, clemence thank you for your ideas! I will try to find suitable spacer, of course. But now xhp50 with native H03 copper mcmcb is more cheap and convenient. Although a bit worse in CRI and r9