Power consumption, mainly for the OTC less off time functionality (referred to as OTSM). I didn’t know about the 841 until recently either, I stumbled on it when searching on 84A power saving techniques. It’s newer, has other improvements and the same pin config as the 84A, so I see no reason to stick with the 84A.
Ah, that makes sense. Newer chips are usually much more power-efficient. Given a driver with flashing vias, I’d love to play with a tiny841. Not sure what I’d do with all that space though, since the last thing I made barely comes to 1300 bytes. 
I haven’t had a chance to try OTSM yet, but it sounds cool. Instead, the SRAM decay method has been working pretty well for long/short press detection, as long as I’m careful to check for partially-decayed data, and as long as one doesn’t mind rather short short-presses.
I couldn’t get the SRAM decay method working very well with the 85V. Things wouldn’t start to decay until about 4 or 5 seconds, making short vs long press duration checks pretty much useless. OTSM is so far the most accurate method I’ve used.
My first mod thread just went up yesterday. I’ve always enjoyed reading the mod threads around here, but never contributed one of my own. Well, now I have. It’s not much, but it’s a start, I guess.
@ZozzV6,
Say, where did you get the premade a PD68 lighted tailcap board? I can find only the ones with 2 LEDs and built-in switch (from Kaidomain I think).
It’s certainly a pain to adjust the timing on the decay method. It’s probably just dumb luck that the components on a nanjg driver happen to give it a reasonably useful timing. With different values for any of its components it probably wouldn’t work. And then most of the BLF driver designs copied it, so the method continued working, mostly.
OTSM would definitely be more flexible and more accurate, given hardware capable of doing it.
I made myself. I think my english tricked you. I tried to say that I made the lighted board before the host arrive to just put them together when I get the host. 
Solved my VG10 problem today.
Looks like I got a new cree star inside 
Found some copper pieces about 0.5mm thick and stacked them up to fill missing space.
Soldered them together, put some thermal paste and it’s perfect now :+1:
Finally built my f13 triple.
Used the 22mm MTN fet+7135 with guppydrive
32mm noctigon with xpl-2 v5 4k
Ledil cute-3
Dual spring bypass with 18 aug at the tail.
And a killer copper spacer from k-ru.
Wow. Topped out at 3070 lumens with a 30q.
This is my first light to break the 3k barrier for lumens
Really impressed on how it handles the heat. The spacer was a nice snug fit. Painted it with silver and the light can last almost 4-5 min before it gets too hot for me.
X7 triple is next!
Not sure if it’s modding
I replace the faulty switch of utorch ut01, it works well now, great light for 14500 battery
I need to do this too.
What kind of switch did you use? Can you please post a link where to buy.
Tl3340
Bought it from taobao(digikey have , too, but more expensive)
Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.
What country do you live in? Maybe you can find a member that’s buying something from one of those places and have them buy one and ship it to you.
Have you tried looking on eBay?
Or AliExpress?
(edit) Hmm… no results there, sorry…
Yes, tried everything else I could think of (and a desperate search on google)
XPL HI V3-3C and Texas Avenger driver now inside
Narsil with full brightness when forward switch connects battery
a few days back I used my reverse lens adapter to make some nice makros
with a powerful flashlight light I got to F=18 16-35mm lens reversed on crop 1.6 DSLR
Woah, you guy have a bad luck, i guess
Basically, taobao has everything( i just type name and ta dah)
Made another Texas Avenger driver and reflo 3 Nichia leds from a Kaidomain triple to a Noctigon XP20 triple.
Before heating up. I like to see the small solder balls in the paste through microscope Fun to watch them melting together.
