What did you mod today?

[Bc412]

Finally built my f13 triple.

Used the 22mm MTN fet+7135 with guppydrive

32mm noctigon with xpl-2 v5 4k

Ledil cute-3

Dual spring bypass with 18 aug at the tail.

And a killer copper spacer from k-ru.

Wow. Topped out at 3070 lumens with a 30q.

This is my first light to break the 3k barrier for lumens

Really impressed on how it handles the heat. The spacer was a nice snug fit. Painted it with silver and the light can last almost 4-5 min before it gets too hot for me.

X7 triple is next!

[mrheosuper]

Not sure if it’s modding
I replace the faulty switch of utorch ut01, it works well now, great light for 14500 battery

[finges]

@mrheosuper

I replace the faulty switch of utorch ut01, it works well now, great light for 14500 battery

I need to do this too.

What kind of switch did you use? Can you please post a link where to buy.

[mrheosuper]

Tl3340
Bought it from taobao(digikey have , too, but more expensive)

[finges]

Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

[djburkes]

@finges

Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

What country do you live in? Maybe you can find a member that’s buying something from one of those places and have them buy one and ship it to you.

[DavidEF]

@finges

Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

Have you tried looking on eBay?

[Jerommel]

@DavidEF

@finges

Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

Have you tried looking on eBay?

Or AliExpress?
(edit) Hmm… no results there, sorry…

[finges]

Yes, tried everything else I could think of (and a desperate search on google)

[Lexel]

Bringing a dead Klarus XT11GT back to life

I had here still parts left from a dead Klarus XT12GT and the XT11GT driver and switch going in the Klarus XT12GTS mod. The driver was from a dead XT12GT I saw that the FET was burned I tested it, just to measure the FET in the boost circuit was burned because in any case the FET got 3.3V with no modulation, so switching the FET would not solve the problem. [image] Unsoldering the burned springs and components from driver and tail cap. [image] I soldered a massive copper wire to hold the …

XPL HI V3-3C and Texas Avenger driver now inside
Narsil with full brightness when forward switch connects battery

a few days back I used my reverse lens adapter to make some nice makros
with a powerful flashlight light I got to F=18 16-35mm lens reversed on crop 1.6 DSLR

Close look on UV LEDs

Did some photos with my reverse adapter for DSLR Used Canon Eos 50D with 16-35mm F2.8 lens @F=18 and reverse adapter ISO400 1/160s light with a 1400 lumens 5000K NW flashlight from the side First Lite On [image] http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/239/LTPL-C034UVH365%20DataSheet_Ver4_20150916-775583.pdf this LED has a electrical neutral middle thermal pad for DTP stars The active area is a lot bigger than on he Nichia LED, so it throws less my LED has a surprizing low forward voltage of 3.46V @0…

[mrheosuper]

Woah, you guy have a bad luck, i guess
Basically, taobao has everything( i just type name and ta dah)

[ZozzV6]

Made another Texas Avenger driver and reflo 3 Nichia leds from a Kaidomain triple to a Noctigon XP20 triple.
Before heating up. I like to see the small solder balls in the paste through microscope Fun to watch them melting together.

[Hunter]

Anyone familiar with this driver? I took it out of the TrustFire ST-80 that is running SST-50 led. Goal is to change it to one mode only but I did not expected to bi so complicated.
Other part of the driver (not shown) has 2 mosfets K3638, sense resistors and a coil on it…

[djozz]

Trustfire makes their own drivers AFAIK, and they usually look complicated. I hope someone can help you (I can’t)

[Flintrock]

If it's got a sense resitor and a coil it sure sounds like a buck. Tow fets sounds like a synchronous buck, which is kind of cool if that's really the case. I'd be looking for an amp attached to the sense resistor (if it's not built into the buck controller) and then some circuit biasing the amp output. That would be the thing to hijack, the biasing circuit. But it might not work that way.

[ZozzV6]

I made two PD68 lighted tailcap board for my future builds. One will be in the Jaxman E2L triple host. The other maybe in VG10 triple.

[doubleone44]

Did some lye treatment…

[Hunter]

@Flintrock

If it’s got a sense resitor and a coil it sure sounds like a buck. Tow fets sounds like a synchronous buck, which is kind of cool if that’s really the case. I’d be looking for an amp attached to the sense resistor (if it’s not built into the buck controller) and then some circuit biasing the amp output. That would be the thing to hijack, the biasing circuit. But it might not work that way.

Here I added some better/more pics, maybe someone will be able to spot solution before I release the magic smoke that lives inside the driver

Interesting thing: on the eeprom chip there are 2 pins soldered together (modes were: hi-low-blinky-blinky-sos) when I removed bridge modes were: hi-mid-low-strobe-sos…

[vwpieces]

Some parts arrived from MtnE yesterday. Bought my first E-SW driver and installd it today. Seems to be some issues with the modes. Ordered it with ML+6 and there are only 5 modes after ML. There is an extra dead Off spot as I need to hit the SW 2X to get it into ML. Anyway the driver is installed and otherwise working and it’s not coming back out.

The second Solarstorm K2 has the E-SW Fet+1 driver piggybacked on the gutted original driver board. Yeah it ended up as a Triple XP-L HI V2 3C. Used a copper X6 spacer and 2 XP32 under the emitter as spacers and All stacked and soldered together.

Some pics of the driver install.

Bypassed tail Spring

[cbrake10]

Ld-51 driver and Xhp35 hi e2-3a in a warsun x65