What did you mod today?

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XXX-Man
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Solved my VG10 problem today.

Looks like I got a new cree star inside Big Smile



Found some copper pieces about 0.5mm thick and stacked them up to fill missing space.
Soldered them together, put some thermal paste and it’s perfect now Thumbs Up

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

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Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

Bc412
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Finally built my f13 triple.

Used the 22mm MTN fet+7135 with guppydrive

32mm noctigon with xpl-2 v5 4k

Ledil cute-3

Dual spring bypass with 18 aug at the tail.

And a killer copper spacer from k-ru.

Wow. Topped out at 3070 lumens with a 30q.

This is my first light to break the 3k barrier for lumens

Really impressed on how it handles the heat. The spacer was a nice snug fit. Painted it with silver and the light can last almost 4-5 min before it gets too hot for me.

X7 triple is next!

mrheosuper
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Not sure if it’s modding
I replace the faulty switch of utorch ut01, it works well now, great light for 14500 battery

Forgot my pen

finges
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mrheosuper wrote:
I replace the faulty switch of utorch ut01, it works well now, great light for 14500 battery

I need to do this too.

What kind of switch did you use? Can you please post a link where to buy.

mrheosuper
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Tl3340
Bought it from taobao(digikey have , too, but more expensive)

Forgot my pen

finges
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Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

djburkes
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finges wrote:
Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

What country do you live in? Maybe you can find a member that’s buying something from one of those places and have them buy one and ship it to you.

DavidEF
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finges wrote:
Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

Have you tried looking on eBay?

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
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Jerommel
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DavidEF wrote:
finges wrote:
Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.

Have you tried looking on eBay?
Or AliExpress?
(edit) Hmm… no results there, sorry..

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

finges
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Yes, tried everything else I could think of (and a desperate search on google)

Lexel
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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53509

XPL HI V3-3C and Texas Avenger driver now inside
Narsil with full brightness when forward switch connects battery

a few days back I used my reverse lens adapter to make some nice makros with a powerful flashlight light I got to F=18 16-35mm lens reversed on crop 1.6 DSLR

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53387

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

mrheosuper
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Woah, you guy have a bad luck, i guess
Basically, taobao has everything( i just type name and ta dah)

Forgot my pen

ZozzV6
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Made another Texas Avenger driver and reflo 3 Nichia leds from a Kaidomain triple to a Noctigon XP20 triple.
Before heating up. I like to see the small solder balls in the paste through microscope Smile Fun to watch them melting together.

Hunter
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Anyone familiar with this driver? I took it out of the TrustFire ST-80 that is running SST-50 led. Goal is to change it to one mode only but I did not expected to bi so complicated.
Other part of the driver (not shown) has 2 mosfets K3638, sense resistors and a coil on it…

djozz
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Trustfire makes their own drivers AFAIK, and they usually look complicated. I hope someone can help you (I can’t)

Flintrock
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If it's got a sense resitor and a coil it sure sounds like a buck. Tow fets sounds like a synchronous buck, which is kind of cool if that's really the case. I'd be looking for an amp attached to the sense resistor (if it's not built into the buck controller) and then some circuit biasing the amp output.  That would be the thing to hijack, the biasing circuit.  But it might not work that way.

ZozzV6
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I made two PD68 lighted tailcap board for my future builds. One will be in the Jaxman E2L triple host. The other maybe in VG10 triple.

doubleone44
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Did some lye treatment..

Hunter
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Flintrock wrote:

If it’s got a sense resitor and a coil it sure sounds like a buck. Tow fets sounds like a synchronous buck, which is kind of cool if that’s really the case. I’d be looking for an amp attached to the sense resistor (if it’s not built into the buck controller) and then some circuit biasing the amp output.  That would be the thing to hijack, the biasing circuit.  But it might not work that way.


Here I added some better/more pics, maybe someone will be able to spot solution before I release the magic smoke that lives inside the driver Smile

Interesting thing: on the eeprom chip there are 2 pins soldered together (modes were: hi-low-blinky-blinky-sos) when I removed bridge modes were: hi-mid-low-strobe-sos…

vwpieces
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Some parts arrived from MtnE yesterday. Bought my first E-SW driver and installd it today. Seems to be some issues with the modes. Ordered it with ML+6 and there are only 5 modes after ML. There is an extra dead Off spot as I need to hit the SW 2X to get it into ML. Anyway the driver is installed and otherwise working and it’s not coming back out.

The second Solarstorm K2 has the E-SW Fet+1 driver piggybacked on the gutted original driver board. Yeah it ended up as a Triple XP-L HI V2 3C. Used a copper X6 spacer and 2 XP32 under the emitter as spacers and All stacked and soldered together.

Some pics of the driver install.


Bypassed tail Spring




cbrake10
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Ld-51 driver and Xhp35 hi e2-3a in a warsun x65

-Clark

Serp
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Hunter
It is necessary to turn on the strobe. And with a multimeter to look for where the signal is coming from. It is necessary to find a EN signal that allows the DC-DC inverter to work.

Lexel
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vwpieces wrote:
Some parts arrived from MtnE yesterday. Bought my first E-SW driver and installd it today. Seems to be some issues with the modes. Ordered it with ML+6 and there are only 5 modes after ML. There is an extra dead Off spot as I need to hit the SW 2X to get it into ML. Anyway the driver is installed and otherwise working and it’s not coming back out.

The second Solarstorm K2 has the E-SW Fet+1 driver piggybacked on the gutted original driver board. Yeah it ended up as a Triple XP-L HI V2 3C. Used a copper X6 spacer and 2 XP32 under the emitter as spacers and All stacked and soldered together.

I would suggest to add some silicone for heat transfer from the new driver to the old one.

[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, S42, K01 / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp

[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+Imalent DM21TWcolorful anodisation

[Sale] TA drivers Narsil or Bistro / Remote switch tail DD board with FET

vwpieces
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Lexel wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
Some parts arrived from MtnE yesterday. Bought my first E-SW driver and installd it today. Seems to be some issues with the modes. Ordered it with ML+6 and there are only 5 modes after ML. There is an extra dead Off spot as I need to hit the SW 2X to get it into ML. Anyway the driver is installed and otherwise working and it’s not coming back out.

The second Solarstorm K2 has the E-SW Fet+1 driver piggybacked on the gutted original driver board. Yeah it ended up as a Triple XP-L HI V2 3C. Used a copper X6 spacer and 2 XP32 under the emitter as spacers and All stacked and soldered together.

I would suggest to add some silicone for heat transfer from the new driver to the old one.

Thanks and appreciated.
Does not work as it should so if it burns out I will make sure to fully test the replacement and thermal silicone that one.

cbrake10
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cbrake10 wrote:

Ld-51 driver and Xhp35 hi e2-3a in a warsun x65

fixed the photo in my previous post. click for some mediocre cellphone beamshots.

-Clark

EasyB
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Just put together my first S2 triple. I used dedomed XPG2 S4 2B emitters and the carclo 10507 narrow spot optic. Nice large spot; I like it. Almost twice the width of the beam of my S2+ with XPL HI and narrow TIR. With a fresh 30Q it pulls about 9.5A at start and does about 2300 lumens and 26 Kcd.

I’m going to put a rotary dial in the tail to continuously control the brightness, similar my mod here.

Hunter
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Serp wrote:
Hunter
It is necessary to turn on the strobe. And with a multimeter to look for where the signal is coming from. It is necessary to find a EN signal that allows the DC-DC inverter to work.

thanks for the advice, unfortunately I am not that good at electronic, best I was able to do is to activate one FET by connecting Gate pint to Bat + (I measured that it gets same voltage as batt.in while in HI) this give me half amperage that is usually in HI mode, second FET was disconected, but the other FET has 3.3V on Gate pin while in HI mode and that 3.3V is supplied from one of the chips (botom right) and depends from what mode is activated and when I tried powering this second FET with external supply of 3.3V it didn’t work (FET started heating up but no light from LED).

Here is my rough schematics of FETs, maybe someone will see something here but for now this is out of my capabilities…

Serp
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Hunter
One of the microcircuits sets the modes. I therefore suggested using a strobe. A repeating signal is easier to find with a multimeter.
Those. You have a microcontroller. It sets the operating modes of the inverter.
Modes are low, medium, high. They can be specified via PWM. Or by connecting in the feedback circuit of additional resistors with the help of FET transistors.
If you can find which one of the microcontroller’s feet produces a signal the SOS or strobe. Then you can apply the required voltage instead of the microcontroller (for example, 3.5V).
It should be just a EN signal allowing the operation of the DC-DC converter
I hope I wrote correctly … English is not my native language Smile

mrheosuper
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i change the emitter of nitecore EC4 to xpl-hi, change the MCPCB to DTP, mod the thermal resistor
too bad, the led was out of center, i may have to reuse the stock mcpcb
some interesting things i found
the driver uses STM32f0 32 bit micro controller, which is quite impressive to me( much more power than attiny 85, or any other 8 Pin Uc)
the driver when open connect has Vbat voltage on the output( which mean i can mod the XM-l2 to XHP50, or even xhp70, whatever you want)

Forgot my pen

ToyKeeper
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mrheosuper wrote:
nitecore EC4… the driver uses STM32f0 32 bit micro controller

Interesting. I was just looking at those a few days ago, wondering if they would work in flashlights. It would certainly increase processing power and onboard capabilities, at least, going from 8-bit MCUs to 32-bit. Not that we generally need more processing power, but IIRC it has a bigger instruction set than attiny, which could make some things easier. Like, if it has a usable divide instruction or floating-point, some things could be calculated onboard instead of being precalculated into tables.

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