Sure, I don’t know what color I want though. Could you spare 2 of each color so I could try them out?
Simon sent me some clear side switch covers, but they are still a week or so away.
Has no one done a lighted switch on the L6? Even with the stock driver, it’s kinda hard to find the side switch to change levels.
I remember talk of Simon adding lighted side switches to the L6 as part of a battery indicator, but haven’t heard any more about it.
Frankly, I haven’t heard anyone being able to reprogram the FX30, except Simon. I really like this new UI that I have except for the press and hold to turn off.
I think the rear switch going into standby and lighting the side switch would be great. Then one click to turn on, press and hold to cycle through the levels and one click to turn off would be great. Have memory even after the rear switch is off.
Then use a double click to get instant turbo. Triple click for strobe. Or just a double click for strobe. Either way, no big deal. Now that would be sweet.
Yes, they measure at tail cap. Adding a wire to the negative emitter lead and using a clamp meter should give more accurate readings. I haven’t tried this though. No clamp meter.
All L6 use the FX30 driver. Simon’s version has the uniquely modified UI with wider spaced modes, no stepdown and 2 R082 resistors. So if you have that, then you have Simon’s version.
Folks have said that adding a 3rd very low resistor, like under R100 will basically make the driver go all out and it’s basic design is limited to 9 amps or so. Some folks have said their driver maxed out at less than that. Like 7.5 amps. I don’t know why it varies.
Stock L6 should get 5.25 amps at tail.
Back when I did my first resistor mod to my L6 I added an R082 and a ceiling bounce measurement went from 311 lumen to 344 lumen. It was a noticable bump in brightness.
Keep in mind it’s difficult to get good readings at the tail cap with a multimeter. You need thick, short leads.
My multimeter with skinny, long leads is not good at all at measuring tail cap loads. It was reading 3.8 stock and 4.1 after the mod. That’s not accurate, but I can still do relative comparisons.
On my second FX30 driver I just added a tiny wire over the sense resistor to make it go full blast. It seems to be holding up fine, but I have not measured to see if the lux improved. I did just now measure the tail cap amps.
Using my original protected KeepPower batteries.
Turbo/high = 4.35 amps
Med = 2.0 amps
Low = 0.5 amps
So using the wire over the sense resistors gave me roughly 0.25 more amps compared to the R082.
Using my new Liitokala batteries.
Turbo/high = 4.9 amps!
Med = 2.07 amps
Low = 0.5 amps
Now these liitokala batteries are giving a bigger jump in amps. Maybe it’s their less internal resistance?
I’ll try and get a clamp meter and remeasure for accurate numbers.
BTW, this new FX30 I’m using has 1.45 milliamps of current draw in standby mode. I don’t know if thats okay or excessive, but I keep the rear switch off when I’m not at work.
Well, try sanyo ga, kill two liitokalas doing shortcut, a stupid mistake on my part :person_facepalming: , with fresh sanyo drain very fast, start above 7.3 amps and immediately start to go down so this battery is not enough for Feed the modified L6 but it serves as a sample, greetings !!
I fully charged the Liitokala’s, used a thick magnet between the two batteries because they are so short that they do not really push on the springs very hard, and it is much better: 6.6A using a small copper coil with clamp meter with the tail taken off, and 3800 lumen at 30 seconds with the tail in place.
This is with the added R110 in parallel.
Some magnets are coated with a protective layer. Even if it isnt, there may be a little resistance in it. I use solder blobs on my 2 liitokala that I use exclusively in the L6.
The 2 stock R082 resistors create 0.041 ohms.
Adding a R100 drops it to 0.0291
Adding a R110 drops it to 0.0298
So pretty much the same.