You have just cracked me up. I’ll be around tomorrow for dinner. What are we having?
Speaking of grocery shopping I was banned years ago as I wanted to buy the best bang for the buck where the wife just wanted to put items straight in the trolley without checking.
Would you be able to get your toys out while I’m there so we can play together? 
Tomorrow will be chili, with tortilla’s and creme fraiche.
Yes sure, I have enough weird nerd flashlights around to make it a fun evening We will just have to endure the scornful laughter from the girlfriend, but that’s business as usual. :person_facepalming:
Oh no! Now we need to source that 20mm triple reflector.
Yes its that intense when first charged, and it slowly dims over a period of 8-12hrs. Here is a link, search around the site, they had some brightness/time tables for the Glow On vinyl film. I have the paint too, but it is not nearly as good!
Be careful with this one. With no extra resistance it probably won’t take much time at all to bleed your battery dry.
It’s amazing how much brighter the good SrAl based glow materials are than the old ZnS stuff found in most chinese GITD parts. I’ve been making tail rings for lights with the SrAl stuff for awhile now and in the dark they are amazingly bright. Like these.
Probably. But I tend to charge my EDC everyday. Also, I left the anodizing on the tailcap threads so this light can still lockout even with the bare aluminum exterior.
I want to replace the lighted tailcap with the 6-led ring washer tailcap. That one is so much brighter. Not sure how to go about getting it though. What parts do I order and where do I order them?
You know I would love it if somebody would come up with scales to put on the flats of battery tubes, to match the radius and make the battery tube full diameter. I often thought about this but never attempted!
I have small enough screws, flat heads, button heads ect. that would look really cool bolting down exotic or plain scales made of wood, micarta, black delrin or something like Pachmayr rubber grips!! But now they have some pretty strong glues and 2 side tape that would works just as well!
This would look so cool on lights with flats on both sides if it matched the radius and made the battery tube full diameter!!! :heart_eyes:
Wow this is bad to the bone, what an amazing pic, looks like pearlescent LED’s!! {width:100%} https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2945/33900716276_2ba75d78f4_c.jpg!
is this footprint of the MCPCB the same as in DTP triples from Kaidomain?
Just considered this with an Osram IR diode, Nichia UV LED modifying footprint and a Nichia 219C
I have not measured it before closing the light but I think that I remember checking it before and that these leds are closer together than a triple Noctigon/Carclo triple optics.
Just considered this with an Osram IR diode, Nichia UV LED modifying footprint and a Nichia 219C
using a TA triple driver with modified mode groups and a low drain battery
FET channel goes to the Nichia 219C, springs not bypassed and thin wires to add resistance
second AMC stacked over the single 7135 to the Nichia UV LED
4 AMCs to the 5.8W Osram Ir diode giving 2W 850nm
having as output channels
white only
white plus IR 50% PWM
IR only
UV only
UV plus IR 50% PWM
That does sounds pretty cool, paired with a matching tailring would really make a plain black light look more refined. Most lights have fairly shallow cutouts and rounded ends to those cutouts so getting the complex shape right so they fit in perfect might be tricky. I’ll look into it with either that copper composite or wood. Been working a lot with wood lately since we just launched the Eye of Sekhmet line.
About the dedomed xp-l2 option , is that xp-l2 sliced or fully dedomed ?
I would appreciate a pic
They are sliced and diced, the dicing improves the performance by about 12% and in the end they end up a only a little below a really good dedomed XP-L in throw but keep a really good lumen output and are more stable due to the silicone still being intact to protect the phosphor. They are a nice balance of throw and lumen output, not really made for max throw like the high throw version which does 260kcd.
I made a p60 drop-in out of a copper rod and pipe bits. I used a Nichia 144a led, djozz’s mcpcb, H1-A boost driver, and a shorter smooth reflector to fit the whole assembly. I soldered the mcpcb onto the drop-in shelf for better heat sinking as well. Then I put it in a SF P1D I had laying around w/ a orange tritium in the tail and pflexpro’s MT lens. I still have to bypass the spring on the driver side and polish up the copper but the drop-in is working fine. I still need to figure out how to make the driver always start on the lowest setting, since it seems to have next mode memory.
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Cool, is that the boost driver from Kaidomain for MT-G2’s etc?
Next mode memory?
Yes, I got the driver from Kaidomain. Whenever you turn on the light, it’ll go to the next mode that you last turned off the light on. The driver has ll-l-m-h and then double click for strobe. So if you turned off the light on medium, it’ll start on high when you turn the light back on.
Aw man, you’ve taken away my happiness but thanks , I was planning a build with that driver. Cancelled, unless it’s just a capacitor mod or the like.
Yeah, that’s the only disappointment about the driver but on the positive side it puts outs good power. I got around 5 amp reading from the light.