What did you mod today?

I have EC4 with XHP70 and stock driver and it works well. You need to use thermal resistor.

I lost the thermal res when reflow the led(damm, that little thing), i dont know the value, so i just solder 10k resistor

So, i reflow the xpl-hi led, change mcpcb to cooper, now it works, so i guess my driver wont work with xhp50 led
I’m sad:(

This is bad news, I want to swap to XHP50.2 too in my EC4…

I dont know will it work, because kiriba said that he modded ec4 with xhp70, and it works, so… i dont know
Maybe difference in Vf


This is maybe my last pic of xhp50.2, before i lost it in my drawer
God, i always love seeing led under UV light

I have the same driver in a Eagle Eye X7 with a XHP50.2, even if it’s on time memory it will start on the same mode if the flashlight is turned on for more than 3 seconds, less than that and it will go to the next mode. Does your driver also have a pre-flash in the low mode ?

Yes, there is a pre-flash on the lowest mode.

Quick Mod on 1508 75mm:

- XHP35HI on16mm copper from Kaidomain

- 1 Mode Buck Driver from DX: http://www.dx.com/de/p/18v-5w-cree-circuit-board-for-flashlights-16-8mm-5-5mm-26110#.WO56sqKJI-U

- Modded with R100 instead of R200 for 2,5A, like wrote on Aqualab: LED Driver List - LED Drivers and Regulator Boards (database driven) (search for “TR-0021b”)

- At tailcap 2,33A

- with 4x 18350er Batteries

At 5m I have measured 372kcd, thats aproximately 1220m distance.

Propably next steps:

- soldering MCPCB to the pill

  • using thicker wires and bridging springs.

See although: Ultimate aspherical flashlight set / Uniquefire 1508 - #87 by Wieselflinkpro

I repaired a S2 triple’s LEDs (purchased a prepopulated noctigon and one LED was dim from the getgo).
Replaced them with Nichia 219b-V1 5000k emitters and a BLF a6 driver. Pulling close to 12 amps from an LG D1 at 4.33V. Beautiful smooth beam.

Voltage Meters

I added a removable voltage meter to the magnetic TP4056 Charger unit and potted the components side

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Also some refinements to the charger tin

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And a voltage meter on one of my battery drill packs

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Just finished a Night Piercer mod of an Astrolux SC for a customer. LED swap, driver reprogram, bypassed springs, refocused reflector, upgraded wires, potted driver. Had to re-machine the LED shelf since it was bulged pretty badly in the middle but she’s nice and flat now. Came out at a cool 83Kcd (~575m).

You should post more details of that Eye of Sekhmet light if you haven’t already?
Looks really nice, interesting.

Wow…very nice…it’ll hurt my wallet though :person_facepalming:

I would like to know what led you used … Not the first time i ask , but it seems i may have to ask more times :blush:

Prolly the Super XP-E2 U5 high performance 3 amper de-domed! Been waiting for the smooth reflectors to finish the Jaxman M2!!! :rage: Just a wild guess!

I don’t have any to test … Edit : And they are only available at mtn or mouser :person_facepalming:

Anyone tried them @ 3 amps & dedomed ?

“G” you excited or what? :smiley: :+1:

Haha :innocent:

I did my 2nd driver swap today, but it was my first in a pill. I put the 17DD MTN driver in my S2+ and it was an experience to say the least… I also did a spring bypass for all my tailcaps since I had the soldering iron warmed up.

I got the stock driver out using a lighter which wasn’t very fun… I got the new one in using my friend’s heat gun and that was much smoother sailing.
Once I got it all in and snug with my 25 degree TIR optic I gave it a test and all seemed well. I then set it to have 6 mode groups + moonlight for 7 modes total. I tested the turbo mode and was comparing to my triple direct drive Jaxman E2L with XP-G2s and it started doing some weird stuff… it wasn’t really hot yet and it shut off straight to moonlight mode. When I did a half-press to enter the next mode it turned off completely for a few seconds then did a bright burst of light and started flickering… I unscrewed the tailcap and put it back on and every mode worked fine no flickering, but once turbo was on for several seconds it shut down to moonlight and did the same nonsense… I took the pill out and every solder connection was sound so I put the pill in with less force and everything tested perfectly. The Bistro temp sensor steps it down around 1min 40sec and no problems since and tested with a few batteries… was definitely scary I thought I got the pill too hot and the driver chips floated around on me.

I’m more than happy with my S2, but now I’m disappointed in my DD triple XP-G2 because it really doesn’t seem brighter than my BLF A6 or DD S2… I think a DD 219C triple is my next endeavor.