I have it mounted in a solid copper X6. Works well, I made a chunky aluminum “reflector” that gives a square hot spot but prefer to use it in mule configuration.
Edit: My primary point though was that if a company is declaring a “high output” UV emitter at a $25 price point something is probably amiss…
I guess it depends on what you consider high output. A 9watt CFL (fluorescent) bulb outputs ~1.5w of UV (UVC or UVA). An LED which outputs radiant 1.5w UVA is considered pretty high output for us. Even the little Nichia 276 at 600 to 700mw but in a very tight beam, all radiated from a single point far exceeds the perceived power of a CFL bulb. So my focus is on replacing fluorescent bulbs where I can with these very directional LEDs. If only a reasonable UVC LED were in my future - sadly afraid not. 10mw/20mw just won’t cut it…
From a UV watts to dollar ratio I find the LZ1 part to be quite effective. But would drool to have what you describe - and mule config exactly what FL mineral collectors want. Did you also install a UV bandpass filter? With the $$$ you have invested in that light I would consider using Hoya 325c - the best filter you can get…
I had researched and located the Hoya lens but never bought it. Kinda like seeing the emitter in this copper light. (off, of course!)
Edit: From datasheets, the Hoya 360 would give a much sharper cut off for this Nichia, but where to find one in 35mm?
Edit II: I also have the LZ1 and a couple of the smaller Nichia’s, the LZ1 does perform well as does the little Jaxman offering in the U1 with it’s black bandpass filter lens.
I cut all my Hoya glass. I have squares which I trim down to hexagons with a diamond saw, and then round it off using a lapidary wheel. The advantage of being a rock collector 
I too have the required diamond tools, just have to find the glass…
so put an NVSU333A emitter insisde a c8 host would be a bad idea then?
Financially pretty bad, yes.
the chinese specs are pretty loose with their “W” ratings
i have seen a 1xAAA light called “5W”
so it may not mean what you think
or it might just be a lie
wle
I realize this thread is a little old but I have to ask…so Mark, what happened? How did those lights work out? I have been avidly following your web pages since recently discovering them and that led me here looking for the latest developments in UV lights. I got the Convoy S2 on your recommendation and find it fantastic for UV rockhounding. Looking for the latest developments.
The C8 also wouldn’t handle the heat of an 333A and the ultra expensive emitter would die. I have one in a solid copper X6, have to watch the heat still.
OK, so how could one make a mobile light containing one or more Nichia 333A emitters?
I think active cooling is the answer for portability
yeah I have planned to put the 333A in a Convoy C8 with a Bistro driver with relative low temperature stepdown at 45°C
I am not planning to go for FET DD on this one and play it save with 7135*12
I had to sign a letter of release on my company letterhead then pay Nichia $108 for the emitter itself.
If I remember correctly it’s running 3.8A on a PZL driver in a solid copper X6 (a mistake, was supposed to be the first copper X5)
Because of a very high Vf, I run a 4.35V Lg cell.
Edit: just got 3.18A at the tail on a freshly charged 4.35V LG that’s getting old.
Received the NVSU233B-D4 365nm LED today
maybe they do a 333B with better efficiency that would be great
5.5W electrically, should be a bit less than 2W 365nm if its like the Datasheet normal flux bin
this has about 40% better efficiency than the 233A
on a fresh 18650-30Q it draws 1350mA
compared to a LiteOn 365nm @1050mA 50% overdriven on DTP star
that is already dedomed I can live with as its going into a reflector light
easiest to dedome LED ever its just held by 4 little glue spots
compared to the 276A you can see that the new ones have one electrode under the emitter
Sorry Scientist, for portability and max outputs with multiple 333A’s you would need to mount them on a sufficient heatsink with a linked fan for active cooling, or maybe utilize a PC liquid cooling system. So a box, with a multi cell power supply, would need to be constructed.
Thanks DB. I am a real newb at this. I have been reading though and understand the problem better now. Your light looks really nice. Tell us how you like it. Must light the place up. I’ll have to read a lot more to translate what you are using for your light.
The 333A run in a host like the Convoy L6 would be enough cooling, maybe the buck driver can be modified and is fine with a 4.2V LED
if you are going for a multi LED light source there are cheaper ones like LiteOn with 3535 footprint fitting on Cree DTP MCPCBs
Those LEDs can deliver about 1W UV at the price of about 7$
the only drawback is you need a ZWB2 filter if you dont want the white wastelight this LED produces as well
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/239/LTPL-C034UVH365%20DataSheet_Ver4_20150916-775583.pdf
Scientist, I made mine to run in mule configuration… no reflector or optic. This makes for a flood of UV light that I use for macro UV photography. I have several others for use in different things, including the Nichia 233 and the Z-Engine, as well as the Nichia 276 (I think) in a Jaxman made UV light with the black-out lens.
From the copper X6/333A…
The LED Engine Z series is mounted on a chunk of copper in a Solarforce L2M with an AHorton aspheric lens over it to spread the beam with no artifacts…
My Nichia 233 is also in an L2M, with an odd tall silicone lens (optic? It fits directly onto the emitter similar to a dome but it’s about a 1/2” tall) from Nichia that gives it more of a beam.
The L2M is an 18350 sized P60 drop-in light. One thing I favor them for is that the lens is held into the “head” of the light with a bezel up top. This “head” is actually an elongated bezel itself, designed to go over the P60 drop-in. So in the case of the aspheric, it’s mounted to the top of the long bezel with a SS bezel of it’s own and I can unthread the long bezel to focus the aspheric, if that makes sense.
The Jaxman has a reflector so it throws more of a beam than any of my UV lights, something like that might be better for searching while walking, over the closer up illumination of a mule for example.
Edit: Horrible memory… my Nichia 233 is in a Convoy S2 host, with short tube, using an 18350 cell. Remembered the silicone optic thing correctly though.
The “beam of light” from the silicone optic over the 233 in an L2M
The more concentrated focus of light through the AHorton lens over the Z Engine (adjustable from full flood to a die size hot spot)
And the much more powerful 333A as a mule…
