Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

Thanks for the run down, especially w respect to rear switch. Do you know what kind of amps / lumens the DD from Mtn or TA run? Run time impacts?

I’ve never run a direct drive/fet driver in any of my lights, so I can’t help there.

I know DD is gonna give the highest amps and highest lumens if your into that. 9 to 12 amps, 6000+ lumen.

I’ll let others with more experience answer this question.

Yesterday I made this combo

L2 + H1-A single cell boost driver from Kaidomain and XHP50.2

This is the result, no ringy at all and a very focussed beam, haven’t measured lumens or CD but it throws!!
I think it is around 2500lm, tailcap measurements shows 7A discharge on turbo from a liitokala 5000mah cell.

I put a 50.2 in my L6 with SMO reflector with modded FX30 driver, about 8.9 amps, and wasn’t really impressed. The hotspot was about the same size as my sliced dome xhp70. Output was almost the same as well, but it sucked up the power. My xhp70 only drew about 8 amps. It did have less donut shape to it, but that yellow corona is not to my liking. I went back to the xhp70.

Now a shaved dome xhp50.2 might give a tighter hotspot for more throw, but I haven’t seen anyone do that yet.

Ewww. That’s like my F13’s beam when I tried taking out the spacer to get the emitter deeper in the reflector for a little tighter focus. Lemon-yellow in the middle, Angry Blue™ around the outside.

Pulling it back out (with the spacer) at least seems to blend the colors together better, or at least does something to get rid of that.

Focus is still pretty good, but I wanted to tighten it up some.

Is it the dome that splits the colors like that? Wondering if a dedomed/shaved/HI emitter has the same issues.

Speaking of dedoming… Quick question, anyone know offhand if an XP-G3 or -G2 is better for dedoming, or put another way, if there are any particular issues with any particular models.

You can’t really dedome a XP-G3 (well, and be left with anything usable) because of how the phosphor is applied. You can slice it, but I haven’t tried that personally. A XP-G2 takes well to dedoming.

Great, tnx!

Just put a XHP35 HI in my L2 host driven with a resistor modded H2-C driver.

Pulls around 8,8A from a liitokala 26650 resulting in just above 2A to the led.

Had to pot the driver in a mix of silicone and silicon carbide because it gets burning hot in a hurry.

Unfortunately i have no pictures of the driver grinded to fit the L2 or potted, just the completed light. I get abit carried away in the moment when im tinkering with my lights.
I will get some pictures when i open it up next time hehe.

Cant get any good beamshots because i only have my phone to take pictures with, trying to find a good spacer height atm i am using one that is 0,7mm and i am pretty ok with the hotspot but i feel like it could be better.

While getting ready to replace my driver in my black L6 I happen to notice the wires reversed.

EDIT: IOW, the stock light from the factory had the leads reversed, red on (-) black on (+).

I checked the wires on the stock driver and they seemed properly placed. JasonWW suggested it was probably the “factory” LED being put on backwards. So I installed a new TA Driver I received from Lexel and just matched the backward wiring on the mcpcb, and it works.

Just making a note here for others to double check before you desolder and not notice wire placement.

Thanks Etex! :slight_smile: At least someone is hearing me! :wink:

It’s an easy mistake to make so I always verify where +/- actually are before installing the mcpcb in the host.

I think you might have misunderstood. (Or did I not understand what you said?)

Someone at the factory installed the xhp70 emitter backwards on the star/mcpcb. So the plus and minus printed on the star are no longer correct.

True Jason, but if the light was working before the mod, simply adhering to the placement of pos/neg wires would have done the trick without worrying about it. I have put one on the star backwards before and wired it accordingly to save time, then later, re-modding it, the wiring was confusing. The simple logic that it worked that way made it clear what I’d done before. :wink:

My L2 should be here tomorrow, left Austin earlier this evening, so I’ll be ready to put the XHP-35 in it and have some fun. :slight_smile:

Anyone with Texas Avenger in a L6, and Narsil experience know if this is normal.

When side switch is turned off, but not off at the tail switch, the emitter has a very low glow, to it. Its almost like having an illuminated switch at the head. Just wondering if I did something wrong.

Did you ask Lexel yet?

I’ve also observed emitters glowing in my 2s 7xXPL light with a FET driver. I also observe the glowing in its current configuration which is a FET and voltage divider, no MCU. I think it is simply the leakage current of the FET. You don’t see glowing in 1s lights because the voltage across the FET is lower so lower leakage current. Also when the batteries in my 2s light are lower voltage, like 3.7V, the glowing is dimmer or non existent.

Thanks EasyB

Maybe I can assume I didn’t get to sloppy w soldering. For my use, it will act as a tail switch “is on” indicator (& battery warning, come to think of it). Very faint spot of light on the ground when walking (arms down). Not even enough light to read a map in the pitch dark.

Try doing an amp draw across the tail cap (EDIT: with the light off on the side switch)

You also might ask Texas Ace since he designed these drivers.

I’ve never heard of this happening, but then again, TA drivers in L6’s are kinda rare.

I’ll let you know if mine does it once I get my driver.

You could always add a led under a clear side switch cover to let you know the rear switch is on. Also to help find the switch at night. :slight_smile:

Wouldn’t you know it…I go reread / youtube amp draw measuring only to find out my Fluke 1587 only does 400ma, and has a blown fuse, to boot.

Remember mine has the Infineon and if your getting SIR800, it may be apples to oranges.