…until you next charge them. 
Hi, I’m sorry, I do not speak English, I use a translator, I clarify the short circuit, it was not in the flashlight, I was measuring charge and opsssss, I made a mistake with the multimeter, the batteries died, but no exploits or anything like that, greetings.
I saw your follow up to this post. This message taken at face value as it was written is bad and dangerous advice that I do not want anyone to follow. I mean no offense to you and I thank you for clarifying that you do not speak English and are using a translator. We have people from all over the world here and all are welcome. Some things do not translate well. Short circuits in lithium cells are always to be avoided as the results can be very bad. This fact is the very reason that Simon clearly said that he only recommends high quality protected cells for use in the L6. Experienced people can do what they wish and many here do so and quite safely but this takes research and knowledge of the battery chemistry and much more. There is a very good thread covering all the basics of lithium ion safety here.
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1st attempt to hone out tube using a brake cylinder hone worked out ok. As I suspected, the stones are not that aggressive. Enlarged 0.06mm, the first .03mm went fairly quick until the hone loaded up with aluminum. The spring loaded three arms maintain an even pressure, and keeps interior nice and round. After honing with the stones, I wrapped them with gray scotchbrite then a cloth with compound for final polish. Next time I probably start with wrapping with coarser grit sandpaper or emory cloth.
Any likelihood of there being a diffuser produced for the L6?
I second the request for an L6 diffuser. L2 diffuser would be awesome as well.
The only problem now, ETex, is that the inside of the tube has no anodization and if you get a nick in the wrapping of a cell that can touch the inside of the tube the light will come on regardless of the switch position. So be sure to keep a check on your cell wraps to maintain integrity. 
Dale,
That’s why I had previously asked if it would be a bad idea. Especially with protected batteries and the metal positive strip running up the side of batteries. Then I checked continuity from the inside tube walls to the edge at tailcap & found spotty areas where I had continuity.
I wouldn’t use protected cells in it, for that reason. The worst that could happen with un-protected cells is that the light comes on. With protected cells it could direct short one or both of the cells.
The spotty continuity is probably due to some areas having thicker anodization than others or some of the tube was not concentric so only the high spots ground off for a uniform tube diameter and left those areas without ano.
It’s not a Huge deal, just something to be aware of. (unless of course you’re using protected cells and then it COULD be a Huge deal!)
At the end of the day it’s no real difference from the battery tubes I make for my scratch built lights. None of those have any ano at all. (I also never use protected cells)
Richard sells a Kapton tape (or used to) in a 2” width, this would be ideal to put a layer around the cell to act as a very thin wrap and give some tube separation. The Kapton tape is really very very thin but strong. Worth checking into maybe.
I should have said more the continuity test was “before” I honed the tube.
Interesting. Any sign that they may have machined the inside of the tube after the ano was done? To true it or to fine tune inside diameter? (anodization can cause dimensional growth that can sometimes be unacceptable.)
Not sure of that. I only check a few spots on inside with my meter, and questionable area were very small and random.
Probably why the Protected batteries are getting bigger, thicker casing’s or double/triple wrapping, to lessen the chance of the fitz fitz… BooOOM!
To my knowledge, none of the top brands make a protected cell. So the protected cells all have aftermarket IC’s added to them. I’ve heard that some will strip the original wrapper and apply Kapton under the protection strip, then another layer of Kapton, then rewrap the cell. These are the thinner ones. If they leave the original wrapper on then indeed they do grow in diameter with double wraps, the strip, and a couple of strips of Kapton tape.
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Tube on your left is factory, tube on right is after honing.
Interesting, I just checked my 2nd Clear L6, and it is much, much worse doing a continuity test (virtually all around the circumference with breaks). Note the inline milling marks on the factory tube.
Maybe it’s just extruded tube and only the outside is machined.
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I think I agree, shouldn’t have called them milling marks.
Now that is weird? Looks like Extrusion or Broach marks to me!
My (2) right off the machine bare naked L6’s have radial tooling marks, and not straight thru either, like it was bored/gun drilled maybe reamed from both ends, I can see the tooling transition marks inside!
I have seen this done on Trunion Machines were opposing spindles come in from both sides, while the tube is clamped. Like on axle tubes and PTO shafts.
Bare L6 Tube
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Here’s last years black tube, as well. Same as KawiBoy’s.