Convoy L6... XHP70 Beast!

Interesting. Any sign that they may have machined the inside of the tube after the ano was done? To true it or to fine tune inside diameter? (anodization can cause dimensional growth that can sometimes be unacceptable.)

Not sure of that. I only check a few spots on inside with my meter, and questionable area were very small and random.

Probably why the Protected batteries are getting bigger, thicker casing’s or double/triple wrapping, to lessen the chance of the fitz fitz… BooOOM!

To my knowledge, none of the top brands make a protected cell. So the protected cells all have aftermarket IC’s added to them. I’ve heard that some will strip the original wrapper and apply Kapton under the protection strip, then another layer of Kapton, then rewrap the cell. These are the thinner ones. If they leave the original wrapper on then indeed they do grow in diameter with double wraps, the strip, and a couple of strips of Kapton tape.

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Tube on your left is factory, tube on right is after honing.

Interesting, I just checked my 2nd Clear L6, and it is much, much worse doing a continuity test (virtually all around the circumference with breaks). Note the inline milling marks on the factory tube.

Maybe it’s just extruded tube and only the outside is machined.

1 Thank

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I think I agree, shouldn’t have called them milling marks.

Now that is weird? Looks like Extrusion or Broach marks to me!

My (2) right off the machine bare naked L6’s have radial tooling marks, and not straight thru either, like it was bored/gun drilled maybe reamed from both ends, I can see the tooling transition marks inside!

I have seen this done on Trunion Machines were opposing spindles come in from both sides, while the tube is clamped. Like on axle tubes and PTO shafts.

Bare L6 Tube

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Here’s last years black tube, as well. Same as KawiBoy’s.

Shorty tube arrived!

Can’t do any readings, but output seems comparable to my clear L6 with warmer tint.

Might be expandable mandrel marks from loading and unloading on/off the mandrel, but it sure don’t look like it.

Still strange why my tubes have radial machining marks!

Outsourced? Copied?

Keep in mind that here in the States you’d be darn lucky to find a machine shop that would turn a battery tube, no anodizing, for the price of this entire light. Just sayin…

More data points, the Clear L6’s are also measuring continuity on the exterior, from tail to head, randomly. I get similar results on a clear C8 (inside and out). Black one is generally good.

Looks like Clear anodizing process is on the lightweight side. Although outside still looks good.

Cheers man, and thanks for being here bonking heads with us to try and solve this.

Far as I myself go, just widen the tube. If someone complains about rattling, it’s just a matter of wrapping a paper sheet around the cells. I did it all the time when I had 2xAA torches, and even a simple supermarket receipt does the job if you wrap it in the middle where the two batteries meet. Simplest mod ever.

Junk mail. Those little 5x7 semi ridgid cards advertising stuff? Perfect battery wrap for spacer, works for 2 cell lights just as well. :slight_smile:

See, Dale gets it :smiley:

Even I get it, once in a while. lol I’ll forget in a matter of moments, but still…

Like, I just blinded myself with a 2042 lumen SBT-70 in a Fandyfire Rook. You’d think I would have learned better by now…

Simon can wrap the lights with Chinese post cards, and we can use them for the new way over size battery tubes for the unprotected battery men, wouldn’t that be cool!!! :+1:

I purchased one from Mountain Electronics, never heard of Convoy but a high lumen battery that runs on fat lithiums seems like an interesting flashlight. Will see how it works out when I receive it.

I do think having the power at the rear and the mode selection on the front kind of an odd design. It would have made more sense to put the on/off button on the front which is what most people expect, ie:if I hand this to someone they should expect simple operation of on/off when pressing the front button not having to guess and find the back button. This can also result in someone accidentally switching modes repeatedly in error instead of shutting down the light.