Hey Gunga? The Convoy S2+ tailcap interchanges with the E2L tailcap and both lights work fine. The groove that exists between the tail cap and start of knurling is the same width but the grooves in the E2L tail cap are slightly narrower. So if there is a clip that attaches to the tail cap, I doubt it would cross over due to the narrower margin.
I have a blue S2+ but have no clue where the clip for it is. Thought I had more Convoy tube lights but the only other one I can locate is chopped with a short tube and TIR lens, no clip.
Ah. Thanks. I have a Jaxman UV light and the clip doesn’t fit On the tailcap. You just answered my question, I won’t fit the groove on the e2l tailcap. Thanks!
The Jaxman UV light has even slimmer grooves than the E2L. If your clip is close, it might just fit the E2L. Could probably open the groove width slightly to make it fit, fairly easy on a lathe but a bit more work without one, still doable though. Without a lathe you can disassemble the tail cap, use a washer to cover the tail end and a piece of all thread or a bolt to run through the tail cap and a nut on the inside to secure it. Mount the all thread/bolt in a drill and spin it up, cut the groove wider with a rotary tool or a hack saw blade, perhaps a small file.
i asked jaxman to produce for a bigger amount of this light with xpl high…with fet driver.they said,the switch is not suitble for so many amps…what to do?:laughing:)
hi,due to busy working, days off-line to BLF.
23A….is too terrible….
I have confirmed with a switch technical from the fatory of the switch(not Omten), the man told me,the switch can not bear 3A more.
The 1288 type switch titled as 250V 1A. Though we use this switch under 4.2V, while I think 20A 4.2V is also out of my imagination…
I have get a better provider than Omten. But it still make me stop on a 3A+ current controlling with this little switch.
I can totally understand that you do not want to go too far over the factory specifications.
But here at BLF we are a bit funny, we do read the specifications but then we test what it can really handle, and we found that the little Omten 1288 is quite happy at more than 15A, I found that it just keeps working at 16A for hours without failing.
But personally, I think that for the factory built E2L the most sensible current is 3A, the light gets hot enough already, and the light output is great. Anyone who wants more current can buy a host and components and build their own hotrod. Or wait for a BLF initiative for a custom triple flashlight.
18350 and 18500 tubes are available, though I find it unfair that Jaxman refuses to sold it alone.
You have to buy the E2L flashlight at the same time or they won’t sell it yo you…
Bad move IMHO Jaxman
My Jaxman M2 is pulling 4.75A at the tail, 2S 14500 for 8.4V and 3014 lumens from the XHP-50.2. Spring is wire bypassed but the switch is the stock one.
I think the LD-3 driver is great in a build like the Jaxman M2 very easy to adjust the current and the UI is great. Besides I can’t build my own drivers soldering wires is right around my skill-set
I just bought two of these from mtnelectronics.com. They seem like an interesting light. Seems much better than my modified SK98 XM-L2 U41C Qlight 3.04 amp lights. More effecient light output and runtime. The quality looks pretty good too. Hopefully this will not disappoint.
