I bought 2 pack of them, they’re really warm, in the 3000Kish IMO.
But I compared them with my 2800K 219C 9080 and they’re too rosy.
The 219Cis a true tungsten filament tint :heart_eyes:
I wish they were more easily available (I got them with Clemence during the GB)
Nice thread-subject. I do mods that I do not bother making a thread about
I just bought one pack and can’t wait to order more.
Dunno where will I put them, though.
Lol I can totally understand, a pack of 3 emmitters with such a nice tint for 2 bucks is to good to resist…You HAVE to buy at least a couple just to stock them
I tried to polish up this turd with a meld-x driver. The side button is now redundant and I need to do something about that.
I wrapped scotch tape around the shaft of the copper switch. The battery pushes the screw in contact with the tail. When the button is pressed it disconnects power. So this thing is a twisty to turn on and use the tail switch to change modes.
Finally got around to building my first triple using kiriba’s aluminum C8 spacer and TA driver built by Lexel. XP-L2 4000k 80CRI.
I’ve read a number of complaints about the XPL2 tint but I quite like it. It’s slightly warmer than my 219c 4000k 9050cri from Clemence but the tint shift is not so bad (in the Cute-3 optic), the CRI is decent, and just waaay brighter than the Nichia.
Unfotunately, the medium presses to go backwards in modes take forever to accomplish. Not sure if this is something associated with triples particularly, but Lexel advised to change the OTC capacitor to 330nf so hopefully that’ll fix the issue as I do want to be able to access the battery check more easily.
I turned down the switch area and sleeved it to cover the old switch opening. When I feel motivated enough I might make a tail that can fit a proper clicky switch
modded several black & decker snake lights.
cut stripboard to fit neatly in reflector sitting deep enough for leds to clear.
stuffed the board with the cheap hi cri 5mm all in parallel.a .47 1/2w in the pr base limits current.hot glued the new assy in place with wires poking out the bulb hole to solder to the now empty bulb base.bust it and dremel out the remains.tip is +.
and a 26650 cell in place of the 2 c cells.a tp4056 charges it.
the versapak are already li-ion.
makes it a great worklight again.
Olight S15 mod. Two of them actually, one an S15 and the other an S15R
Once I managed to get the bezels unscrewed these just fell together. A month ago I ordered some optics from LEDDNA. They arrived a couple of days ago.
I unscrewed the bezel by pressing the front of the light against the tread rubber on my Tacoma. It was the handiest rubber around and gripped very well. A few taps on the workbench top and the lens popped out. I used the cell to push the driver / pill forward just a little. The movement made the o-ring that was trapped by the reflector work loose enough to be able to remove it with tweezers.
I found a rubber stopper that was the right size to fit against the reflector lip and that allowed me to unscrew the reflector from the body. Just in case I want to use the reflector again it is unmarked.
There is another thread here on doing this mod. It it the author found it necessary to sand down the back end of the optic a little, in order to be able to thread the bezel back in all the way. I don’t know what is different but I did not have to sand.
One of the optics I used is a 25 degree and the other is a 60 degree. Both need to be removed from the white holder they came in. A small jewellers screwdriver was used. Then the optics were dropped in and the bezel threaded back in. That was it, other than inserting a cell and installing the tailcaps.
Reassembly was done without the glass lens and without the oring, so they are not as waterproof as they were before the mod.
I have not decided if I have a preference for one over the other. I like the 60 degree with its nice even spread of light. The 25 degree is more centrally concentrated but more diffuse than the stock reflector. I will be playing with them later as it gets darker. I also have a 15 and a 45 to play with. I’m thinking I might prefer the 45 over the 60, and that the 25 is good for some other uses.
The apparent color of the light has changed with the change from reflector to optic. It seems to have shifted slightly to be more neutral. Still very white (stock XM-L2 emitters), but somehow nicer.
Some great mods above, I love what pinkpanda did to the 6 dollar zoomie, and the output of k-wong’s triple must be stunning! And nice little flooders MtnDon!
I modded the cheap thrower that Mitko brought to our attention with an Oslon Black Flat. Took more TLC than I was prepared for but got it done. With 343kcd it is my strongest reflector thrower to date, for under $20 in parts. Some build details here.
Those poor apartments are about 80 meter away.
I modded a thrunite TN4A today. I used a BLF FET driver in it to drive an XPH70. NOPE Killed it deader than a doornail.
I used four of the windyfire IMR’s from Mountain electronics (2s2p). He was not kidding when he said they are high amps. I should have listened. I honestly did not think that 14500’s could take out an XHP70, now I know.
Well anyway, now it’s got an MT-G2 in it and that MT-G2 can just barely handle them. Gotta back off from Turbo fast though because I can tell it would kill it if it’s on Turbo for more than a few second. Crazy!
I’ve got a bunch of XHP-50’s on the way, they might be better with it but IDK, this MT-G2 has got one great tint and it’s pretty darn bright for such a small light. Maybe just run it the way it is with batteries that are less high amp or remember not to run it all the way on Turbo. It gets hot fast anyway.
Very cool, I’m going to have to get a couple of them to play with. That’s my kind of light right there. Budget throwers are my favorite. Lot’s of open country around here and fields are full of deer to check out. 343 is rocking for that size light.
You mean the windyfire 14500s? Yeah they are probably the best 14500 available, but I’m surprised they killed an XHP70. They have 70 or 80 mOhms IR, so even two of them in parallel is not crazy low IR compared to good 18650s.
Yeah it’s the windyfire, red IMR crazy that they would kill it and quick too. The MT-G2 starts to turn blue on turbo so they would kill it too if you ran if for any time at all. Not really heavy wires either so there is some resistance there as well.
Messing with the optics again. I see there are two different types that I have, the ones with the white plastic holders, or sheels, and one without. The ones that need to be popped out of the holder fit into the S15 as they are. The optics that came w/o a holder are slightly too long or too high. The bezel starts onto the body but will not tighten down. I have the 45 degree fitted and it will need sanding or cutting a little to permit the bezel to be tightened down.
Since another member asked me to take a pic I figured I'd share it here as well. This is the copper washer I used to mount the driver to. The spots removed around the edges are there so that the original driver holder can be screwed down on top of this. Luckily the screws are plenty long enough. The inside of the washer was also filed out by hand so the driver would fit correctly. Worked great.
@MtnDon :
I like my 60° TIR modded S10RIII. I put a 7A XM-L2, for indoor use I love warm tints.
TIR are great at diffusing light, this one is mostly used in moonlight mode for checking my baby’s diaper midnight.
That’s great… last night I popped the 60 degree into my S10R. It is perfect for some uses, but I like the 45 and 25 for other things. I think the 25 will be my EDC. For now at least. Very easy to swap them. The S10R with the 60 does make a very nice ML light for moving about dark rooms.
Can never have too many lights I guess. 
I finished up my first mod thread yesterday if anyone is interested.
Polished S41s, H17F+, High Current, High CRI
Took out the driver from the S2+ pill, which was quite difficult, since the solder was not adsorbed well by the braid wire.
Then i managed to solder the S2+ spacer for the triple build to pill.
I used flux for copper water supply and heated the pill on an electric heating plate which went really well.
Still waiting for the Mcpcb with optics to finish the build.
