BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

I think that's the color I saw on the proto Q8 prior to it turning lighter, more like copper. Initially under heat, the Q8 turned a darker reddish/brown color like that, then lighter copper reddish/brown, then turns more like a deep gold. I did mine on the gas burner though, so probably much more heat.

I actually like that baked color quite a bit. Much better than the original conditions.

Don’t get me wrong guys. This hotspot looks nice but IME I think by better centering(lifting reflector slightly more over led) light could/should gain greater candela performance, and of course that will result in smaller hotspot.

I can’t judge by the picures , but i would guess it’s the opposite thing , reflector needs to go closer to the mcpcb .

One would never fix the emitter properly if the emitter is on a 16mm pcb: ever
thats why our BLF fella got only 170k candelas
26+ mm is perfect

Even so its a great result for a 14$ worth flashlight, and its so old style BLF…something that we do miss great time lately

Did anyone dedome the stock led? Can we confirm it’s a u3 xml2? I’m ordering parts for an other project and I’m still in doubt of ordering an U4 emitter for this light or use the stock emiter.

Yeah it is, i used it in a x6 host and got actualy quite good results, its something like u3 1A but you can never be sure for the exact tint

Thnx Mitko

Yes you could be right here… In that case it is no problem to take pill outer ring on a lathe or with file. There is even possibility of dremmeling mcbcb or even reflector base if needed.

Yes it is only + to have bigger mcpcb but in a lack of it I also don’t see any problem in fitting 16mm noctigon. Little file working and dremmeling won’t kill anyone :slight_smile:

Edit: I think I got you know Mitko (The pill can hold 16mm pcbs so i lowered it by 3mm, filled the gap with a thermal paste/ Cu pads and used a 26mm 3535 mcpcb)

Pill by default does not have enough height? If so we could also sacrifice 1 16mm noctigon and merge it with other 16mm one.

This will be easy 300+kcd light with old style XP-G2.

For whatever worthiness, I added an image of the stock board/LED in THIS POST

luminarium iaculator

I am afraid dremeling wont help here, the reflector base is quite thin: and for best results the emitter bracket should be thin as air: using that kind of bracked is impossible with a 16mm mcpcb cause the reflector will ” hit” the driver wires thus causing a non perfect focus, one should use at least 22awg ones- even using 26awg wont help, tested already

As i mentioned before, the pill should be lowered by like 5mm( ofc filling the internal gap is a must), and using a 26+ mm pcb brings things to where they should be- no more loose reflector and a perfect well centered emitter and hotspot

I am thinking about contacting our russian pill crafter Kiril about CU pills, would be a great to have some of those

I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( :wink: ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress…

OMG djozz ….thats a real reflector abuse m8! :slight_smile:

How could you kept it from the AL particles and the dust caused by the procedure?

However, a real BLF work!

Nah, a quick blow and that’s that, I do not care about a few specs, that does not affect throw. This is the advantage of a 14 dollar host, not much to ruin.

I like the feel of this light in the hand btw.

I’m planning to follow Mitko’s method when i receive the light and the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb (with stock led) . If i don’t get good results i will have to try U4 0D , i have many dd xp-g2 lights (X6 , C8 , F13 , even L6 :stuck_out_tongue: ) .

Not an approach I was expecting......

I don’t have it yet but I probably have solution for protruding driver wires of 16mm noctigon.

So if reflector base must not hit the wires (cause we want to achieve best focus) we could dremmel out small channel to main - contact and then flat solder merge all. We could also use very small file or rasp here to dig towards- contacts.

Something like this for example:

The question is would something be shorted that way? If not then it is 5 minutes job.

There are a lot of ways to do it .

Someone could solder small nickel strips at the end of every cable , and use heatshrinking tube in the connection .

Also someone else could solder perfect flat 22awg wires using a bevel tip (hoof tip) on his soldering iron ,

Pretty easy for the solder to flow down into the channel and short out on the copper base, the channel would be cutting through the dielectric layer.

Simply use the thin tabs off a large Omten switch to route the contact pads further out, they’re very thin and should allow for focus.

By the time the bezel is screwed down to seal, there is very little room for wires when the reflector is compressed. The centering area on the reflector is "real" thin now, with the protection in stock form.

I was looking at the reflector, and hate to think about it, but, the area that touches the lens could be trimmed back?, to allow more room for the wires at the centering ring. It's not a great approach if one does not have the tools to do it selectively. This modding stuff, I can see it being a bugger without a lathe or mill at your disposal.