BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

For whatever worthiness, I added an image of the stock board/LED in THIS POST

luminarium iaculator

I am afraid dremeling wont help here, the reflector base is quite thin: and for best results the emitter bracket should be thin as air: using that kind of bracked is impossible with a 16mm mcpcb cause the reflector will ” hit” the driver wires thus causing a non perfect focus, one should use at least 22awg ones- even using 26awg wont help, tested already

As i mentioned before, the pill should be lowered by like 5mm( ofc filling the internal gap is a must), and using a 26+ mm pcb brings things to where they should be- no more loose reflector and a perfect well centered emitter and hotspot

I am thinking about contacting our russian pill crafter Kiril about CU pills, would be a great to have some of those

I got mine in today and I’m not disappointed, not many real flaws, just the reflector needs work. I chose this elegant ( :wink: ) solution below, now I can use a 20mm board with the wires on the outer edge of the solder pads. Mod in progress…

OMG djozz ….thats a real reflector abuse m8! :slight_smile:

How could you kept it from the AL particles and the dust caused by the procedure?

However, a real BLF work!

Nah, a quick blow and that’s that, I do not care about a few specs, that does not affect throw. This is the advantage of a 14 dollar host, not much to ruin.

I like the feel of this light in the hand btw.

I’m planning to follow Mitko’s method when i receive the light and the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb (with stock led) . If i don’t get good results i will have to try U4 0D , i have many dd xp-g2 lights (X6 , C8 , F13 , even L6 :stuck_out_tongue: ) .

Not an approach I was expecting......

I don’t have it yet but I probably have solution for protruding driver wires of 16mm noctigon.

So if reflector base must not hit the wires (cause we want to achieve best focus) we could dremmel out small channel to main - contact and then flat solder merge all. We could also use very small file or rasp here to dig towards- contacts.

Something like this for example:

The question is would something be shorted that way? If not then it is 5 minutes job.

There are a lot of ways to do it .

Someone could solder small nickel strips at the end of every cable , and use heatshrinking tube in the connection .

Also someone else could solder perfect flat 22awg wires using a bevel tip (hoof tip) on his soldering iron ,

Pretty easy for the solder to flow down into the channel and short out on the copper base, the channel would be cutting through the dielectric layer.

Simply use the thin tabs off a large Omten switch to route the contact pads further out, they’re very thin and should allow for focus.

By the time the bezel is screwed down to seal, there is very little room for wires when the reflector is compressed. The centering area on the reflector is "real" thin now, with the protection in stock form.

I was looking at the reflector, and hate to think about it, but, the area that touches the lens could be trimmed back?, to allow more room for the wires at the centering ring. It's not a great approach if one does not have the tools to do it selectively. This modding stuff, I can see it being a bugger without a lathe or mill at your disposal.

Yes… That is nice idea too :slight_smile: I just remembered that our member Cula already did that in B158 mod:

But Mitko says it needs to be air thin and this won’t be air thin…

Edit:

Yes that is also nice idea…
You see guys that kind of light is awakening our creativity :+1:

I saw this somewhere at this forum:
wire from laptop battery pack…

I like that method, Hunter. I think the best way so far.

That looks fairly thin… :+1:

That will be very interesting to see. I am also looking forward for your mod.

Well, I tried a direct drive (no driver) Oslon black flat mod and it was a fail. For two reasons:
1)I could not get the Black Flat focussed well in all three dimensions (made the centering piece paper-thin, filed material off the bottom of the reflector, but still the led while closing it all eats its way a bit into the side of the centering piece causing a ever so slight off-centering, for a 1x1mm die that is deadly.

2)the way the light closes, in the final stage when tightening the bezel, the reflector starts rotating too, which is disastrous the way I modded the reflector. I finally managed to short everything out via the reflector and killed the switch.

Need new courage for this, this light brings back bad memories of hopeless mods from a few years ago, with its twisting reflector finding its own way while desperately trying to keep the correct focus :confounded:

Use a light that has a threaded reflector, then when you assemble the light your internal relationships will remain fixed. Something like the Kronos X6, or the XinTin C8 (got that wrong, but you probably know what I mean)

Focussing a tiny 1x1mm die in a reflector this large is about fractions of a mm, you will probably notice a 50 micrometer off-center die in the shape and intensity of the hotspot. You will not get that right with a fixed assembly of internal parts. You either must have a precisely manufactured and rigid (better than I used) centerpiece that relates the die exactly to the reflector, or you need an adjustment system of the led (in 3 dimensions!) that can be employed after assembly (I can not imagine how that can be done in a mere flashlight)

So the part of reflector that is filled down while spinning around catches wires of 20mm pcb and then it shorts them. It needs free 360 degrees in order to center.

Solution is only to have totally flat mcpcb without protruding ± wires which will enable free reflector rotation and in that case mcpcb modding is needed or Mitko way with large mcpcb which really looks like the most simple working solution as it allows rotation and tight fit for best focus but as he said it would be nice to have full surface copper machined pill in Kiriba ru style for that.