Nah, a quick blow and that’s that, I do not care about a few specs, that does not affect throw. This is the advantage of a 14 dollar host, not much to ruin.
I’m planning to follow Mitko’s method when i receive the light and the 26mm Maxtoch mcpcb (with stock led) . If i don’t get good results i will have to try U4 0D , i have many dd xp-g2 lights (X6 , C8 , F13 , even L6 ) .
I don’t have it yet but I probably have solution for protruding driver wires of 16mm noctigon.
So if reflector base must not hit the wires (cause we want to achieve best focus) we could dremmel out small channel to main - contact and then flat solder merge all. We could also use very small file or rasp here to dig towards- contacts.
Something like this for example:
The question is would something be shorted that way? If not then it is 5 minutes job.
By the time the bezel is screwed down to seal, there is very little room for wires when the reflector is compressed. The centering area on the reflector is "real" thin now, with the protection in stock form.
I was looking at the reflector, and hate to think about it, but, the area that touches the lens could be trimmed back?, to allow more room for the wires at the centering ring. It's not a great approach if one does not have the tools to do it selectively. This modding stuff, I can see it being a bugger without a lathe or mill at your disposal.
Well, I tried a direct drive (no driver) Oslon black flat mod and it was a fail. For two reasons:
1)I could not get the Black Flat focussed well in all three dimensions (made the centering piece paper-thin, filed material off the bottom of the reflector, but still the led while closing it all eats its way a bit into the side of the centering piece causing a ever so slight off-centering, for a 1x1mm die that is deadly.
2)the way the light closes, in the final stage when tightening the bezel, the reflector starts rotating too, which is disastrous the way I modded the reflector. I finally managed to short everything out via the reflector and killed the switch.
Need new courage for this, this light brings back bad memories of hopeless mods from a few years ago, with its twisting reflector finding its own way while desperately trying to keep the correct focus :confounded:
Use a light that has a threaded reflector, then when you assemble the light your internal relationships will remain fixed. Something like the Kronos X6, or the XinTin C8 (got that wrong, but you probably know what I mean)
Focussing a tiny 1x1mm die in a reflector this large is about fractions of a mm, you will probably notice a 50 micrometer off-center die in the shape and intensity of the hotspot. You will not get that right with a fixed assembly of internal parts. You either must have a precisely manufactured and rigid (better than I used) centerpiece that relates the die exactly to the reflector, or you need an adjustment system of the led (in 3 dimensions!) that can be employed after assembly (I can not imagine how that can be done in a mere flashlight)
So the part of reflector that is filled down while spinning around catches wires of 20mm pcb and then it shorts them. It needs free 360 degrees in order to center.
Solution is only to have totally flat mcpcb without protruding ± wires which will enable free reflector rotation and in that case mcpcb modding is needed or Mitko way with large mcpcb which really looks like the most simple working solution as it allows rotation and tight fit for best focus but as he said it would be nice to have full surface copper machined pill in Kiriba ru style for that.
@l.i., yes, ultimately the Maxtoch board will be easiest. But even then, I set myself quite a challenge with the Black Flat: a reflector that rotates during tightening will always dig itself in, deforming the centering piece a bit and before you know it the led is off.
If I would design a large reflector thrower flashlight for the Black Flat, it would have a bezel that is screwed straight down instead of rotated (MRsDNF-style! looks cool too )
Thinking of that, some notches on the edge of the reflector that are fixed by a protrusion in the head, or simply a flat bit in the reflector falling in a flat bit in the head, will do the job stopping rotation fine.