BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

I like that method, Hunter. I think the best way so far.

That looks fairly thin… :+1:

That will be very interesting to see. I am also looking forward for your mod.

Well, I tried a direct drive (no driver) Oslon black flat mod and it was a fail. For two reasons:
1)I could not get the Black Flat focussed well in all three dimensions (made the centering piece paper-thin, filed material off the bottom of the reflector, but still the led while closing it all eats its way a bit into the side of the centering piece causing a ever so slight off-centering, for a 1x1mm die that is deadly.

2)the way the light closes, in the final stage when tightening the bezel, the reflector starts rotating too, which is disastrous the way I modded the reflector. I finally managed to short everything out via the reflector and killed the switch.

Need new courage for this, this light brings back bad memories of hopeless mods from a few years ago, with its twisting reflector finding its own way while desperately trying to keep the correct focus :confounded:

Use a light that has a threaded reflector, then when you assemble the light your internal relationships will remain fixed. Something like the Kronos X6, or the XinTin C8 (got that wrong, but you probably know what I mean)

Focussing a tiny 1x1mm die in a reflector this large is about fractions of a mm, you will probably notice a 50 micrometer off-center die in the shape and intensity of the hotspot. You will not get that right with a fixed assembly of internal parts. You either must have a precisely manufactured and rigid (better than I used) centerpiece that relates the die exactly to the reflector, or you need an adjustment system of the led (in 3 dimensions!) that can be employed after assembly (I can not imagine how that can be done in a mere flashlight)

So the part of reflector that is filled down while spinning around catches wires of 20mm pcb and then it shorts them. It needs free 360 degrees in order to center.

Solution is only to have totally flat mcpcb without protruding ± wires which will enable free reflector rotation and in that case mcpcb modding is needed or Mitko way with large mcpcb which really looks like the most simple working solution as it allows rotation and tight fit for best focus but as he said it would be nice to have full surface copper machined pill in Kiriba ru style for that.

@l.i., yes, ultimately the Maxtoch board will be easiest. But even then, I set myself quite a challenge with the Black Flat: a reflector that rotates during tightening will always dig itself in, deforming the centering piece a bit and before you know it the led is off.

If I would design a large reflector thrower flashlight for the Black Flat, it would have a bezel that is screwed straight down instead of rotated (MRsDNF-style! looks cool too :cool: )

You can remove the threads, and glue the bezel in place.

Thinking of that, some notches on the edge of the reflector that are fixed by a protrusion in the head, or simply a flat bit in the reflector falling in a flat bit in the head, will do the job stopping rotation fine.

You can’t glue the reflector in the sides of the head ?

I would use the threaded reflector to adjust height for focus, I’d glue the mcpcb with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and adjust the placement of the emitter in the 5-10 minutes it takes for the Adhesive to cure. Put on the bezel and enjoy my light.

If the placement is so critical due to the small emitter size, then exacting precision on tolerances is the key. Starting with a $12 host is the nightmare. Choose the right host to begin with, or make it, and the problems solve themselves.

Some outdoor beams shot I am using iPad mini 4 camera so don’t expect good photos. SupwildFire dd xml2 u4 od about 5000k I guess A6 fet+1 VS Jaxman X1 XHP35 HI 6500K, H2-C driver. That is 160M according to Google maps.
The first three Night photos SupwildFire the last three Jaxman x1. Don’t know how far on this! First two night photo is supwildfire last two jaxman x1 and indoor photo @9M indoor photo are supwildfire.

It's hard to get a good photo of it. Is yours the same?

I was looking at the LED on the pill without the reflector in place. Everything (the pill itself) is out of center.

You guys might want to have a look. In the case of my light, a threaded reflector would be no resolution.

Nice beam shots, Tim It looks to throw a nice bit of light!

The next one came , this time it`s a S4 1A based( from the old ones, 4.7amps capable) and tests shows it 280-300cds , the hotspot is nearly perfect, i just need to sand the pill this days, ordered some Ar glasses from KD and i am thinking about a new pill, the default one isnt that good.
The pill and the defautl driver are kinda different from the first one that i got

Can you give us some measurements ? (Pill’s) Threads OD , height etc

If not , no problem at all :slight_smile:

Edit : Just measured my UT02 with dedomed S4 1A i made 3 days ago , i think the emitter is one of these djozz described as old-dot-pattern/new-phosfor-type and it’s making 300,4kcd with a rested Liitokala battery . It would be interesting to check this flashlight with this led too :smiley:

Very encouraging results guys. Now I know I can expect around 330 from my mod.

But inconsistent production? LOL that should be really crazy adventure. But if it accepts UF T20 pill than there should not be any problem. Problem would be with inconsistent reflectors.

Edit this is fairly cheap and it should fit?

Nope m8. Got those in the cashe…do not fits.
As i said t20 pill fits yet its designed for 16mm pcbs

Keep in mind that Mitko uses original old S4 emmitters , you should probably expect 290-300kcd from it .