well, I got a set of VTC6’s coming, might as well try a solder boobjob on them 
sign me up for one, please
Is it done yet!!
LOL
Will update list later!
don’t know, China is on holiday, no news so we don’t know when the prototypes are send and we only know if these can be called samples if we have them in our hands and only then it is getting done
You must be a plastic surgeon. I hope the scars aren’t visible.
trying to decide on cup size
would that affect performance…or just resale value?
Well, the first prototype, modded from what it was, quite a bit, is doing outstanding. It has the ThorFire quad MCPCB, upgraded to XPL2 V5 4000K 70+ CRI, LED wires are 18 AWG at the MCPCB, then soldered to 16 AWG wires for most of the length, bypassed springs, an OSHPark BLF Q8 driver, and a UCLp lens.
On 30Q's w/soldered tops boob job @4.19V it does 26A (clamp meter), lumens: 7,106 @start, 6,500 @30 secs 
This is how the light looks now:
The current prototype #3, only mod is swapping the LED's to XPL V6 3D's which is what we should get in production, does this:
The next, maybe final prototypes should have a bigger MCPCB (copper DTP of course), and thicker shelf I think, so theoretically same or better.
I'm just itching for this light to get finalized. That copper color IS stylish, and calling my name.
Great news, Tom.
Thanks.
The Chinese somewhat remind me of the Canucks with all their holidays.
Tomorrow we are not working. The boss is taking the day off.
So all the employees might just as well stay home tomorrow as well.
National "punch your boss in the gut day" will happen without him...LOL
:+1: Miller, please sign me up for 1 of these Q8’s.
There is that thump sound from the underside of my computer table 
Some places i just need to put on a pair of loos fitting jeans before i go there, but some times i forget and then i might get that wierd thump sound.
Sounds sort of like when you throw a salami on the kitchen table.
LOL. YEOW!!
**
Now your just dreaming! :person_facepalming:
I’m sure there are good tips to add solder blobs around here. Maybe some has a link or a video maybe?
My tips are to make sure the battery top is clean, add some flux (crucial), get the iron fully to temperature, use a big tip on the iron so the heat goes in quickly. Then you want to heat the battery top very quickly and feed the solder in all within 2 or 3 seconds. Then have a damp rag or paper towel to touch the blob as soon as you are done. This will keep the heat from spreading to the battery internals. Then I pick at the flux residue around the blob to make it all clean and nice looking. It comes out looking perfect every time. :+1:
While people are looking around for possible deals on the 30Q, it would be nice if they could also try to get some GA button tops in the deal. Preferably unprotected.
I may be a minority, but I am getting the Q8s for emergency room lighting. I will want to buy some sort of diffuser to put on top when we get a bit closer. I am more interested in run time than using it to peel paint. So longer run time would be of most interest. Since we don’t have the choice of the new Elon format; next best thing is an unprotected 3.5 AH cell.
Campers might also be interested in those cells for long duration trips. Cavers would likely be serious fans of the light and cells. When I was crawling around in caves I would have mugged someone for this light and left my lamp, Carbide, and bottle of water for the poor victim.
There was some discussion about diffusers back aways from what I remember, but maybe it was another thread too. This thread is miles long or so it seems. My solution is the cheap one for that use (if not doing ceiling bounce), a translucent white plastic cup. If you won’t be peeling paint you also won’t be melting plastic.
Fenix AOD-L was shown to fit on proto 1.
Here on proto #1:
Isn’t that really inefficient?
Wouldn’t a mirrored design produce the same light, but at a lower power level? You could squeeze out a few more hours of runtime.
Put me on the list pleeeease?
Or you could have another few sets of cells.
Basically since it’s a diffuser built by a 3rd party it’s dependent on what one can find. Is there one built as you describe? I agree that it might be ideal if the light was mounted up high for room light or on a table just to light it.
I was thinking a glass cylinder with upside down cone shaped reflector on top pointing down.
IDK. It seems folks on this forum are so exact, like using AR coated glass instead of regular, etc… then they go the complete opposite direction when it comes to spreading the light. It doesn’t make sense to me.