BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

So it does 353 kcd, not fully charged, 30s waited (I usually cheat there ), and might actually be better at 10+ meters. Dang! How do you rig up those Black Flat's being the center pad has to be electrically isolated? You seem to have a pretty good setup there.

I might want to try one out in the BOSS1... On 4P of LK 26650 cells, can they take the amps?

Of course! VTC5A's are the best 18650 DD amp cell on the planet, as far as I know of.

Think those Black Flats have a peak amp range though - too high may drop off.

The solution was: no driver. The ledminus is simply in contact with the body via the DTP-pad. 1 time reversing the battery will blow the led.

That is why I ordered another one, to make a dedomed XP-G2 version with a proper driver.

If you really want to use the Black Flat with driver, I think that the way to go is to sand down the rim of the pill level with the ledboard shelf and use that tape (dunno the name) that you use instead of thermal paste to stick a 26mm Maxtoch board on top of it. The large contact area between board and pill should be enough compensation for the relatively poor thermal properties of the tape.

The led draws 5A now, and that is right at the peak output of the Black Flat that I measured. So the output curve is so flat there that it takes a fair while before the battery is so drained and current so low that the output really suffers.
The VTC6 will only make the output worse, you end up over the peak output.

Interesting statement there Tom… I have tried the VTC5 in multiple lights and it gets beaten by several cells. My Ti X6 Quad 219C pulls a bit over 21A on an LG-HE4, no other cell can match that. I’ve got lists of up to 16 different cells in the D80, the VTC5 isn’t on the top. All this means is that different lights perform at their peak with different cells, like finding the correct powder and bullet combination for a given firearm. There are no constants.

Edit: Feeling like crap and still saw that this sounds combative. Not intending it that way, just merely saying I haven’t found any one cell to stand out over another in an averaging of lights tested. Could be my results differ due to different light styles and testing methods. Sorry I’m sounding so grouchy.

Big difference between the VTC5 and VTC5A - two different cells. VTC5A is way better.

SONY's here: https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/Sony

Ohh - fyi. The VTC5A is the cell Mitko uses for quoting all his high numbers. Though a 3000 mAh is more useful for the full drain, the VTC5A does great for the first 30 secs

Shoot - measured 26A on proto #1 with the XPL2 V5 4000K LED's, but that was on 30Q's @4.19V. Noticed I didn't try VTC5A's in it yet

Ah! I posted an edit directly above your answer. Thanks for explaining that difference. Pretty sure I haven’t seen any VTC5A’s. Need to look into that…

I mentioned a lot of times how good VTC5A is but i guess i hadn’t the influence Tom has :smiley:

No prob. There's so much variations in cells in general, and they do seem to vary either charge by charge, or light to light, dunno. So far though, the VTC5A's have been consistently better than the VTC6's or 30Q's, and I've found them to do the best for the most part. My HE2's and HE4's do ok, but haven't been able to get consistent good results from them. I even tried the supposed super 2100 mAh cells, but didn't get any better results from them.

The old Sam 20R's were pretty good. I always hoped a 30R would be coming, but never did.

But Giorgo, everything you say is Greek to me! I need an interpreter… :stuck_out_tongue:

I probably forget everytime I hear it, so the next time I hear it it’s news to me all over again. And so it goes…

I’m sure you all know what 350 kcd looks like but I think this one is neat enough to post, it is quite like how it looks in reality :slight_smile:
The farthest reflecting bicyle is at 90 meter.

Like a frickin stage light!

Nice djozz. :slight_smile:

Seems reasonable Dale :smiley:

Hot wild Soup came :slight_smile:

Bad:
only the pill
Good:
original Kan 28 switch
very good anodizing
very good reflector
Even stock glass is not bad either

About pill? It is not machined well, it has retaining ring for driver(so you can’t solder driver directly) and front flat side seems unbalanced(punctured) with nasty middle hole in middle? Terrible :confounded: It can’t be fittted with 20mm mcpcb without dremmeling cause it has les than 19mm id diameter.

T20 brass pill from fasttech does not fit cause it has shorter threads for 1mm. And I would really like that Mitko reply with direct link on what T20 pill will fit to it?

Yes I tried to modd it with old G2 S3 2B on 16mm noctigon and fet driver and all bypassed as it should be.
So I flattened the wires with the iron and that looks ugly but it usable with reflector. If you don’t do the same no freaking chance you’ll get usable beam with 16mm mcpcb and de domed emitter.

Now about temporary results:
I obviously have bad heat transfer because of bad pill but results are higher than 260 kcd for first 5 seconds than of course drastically drop occurs(even to 150kcd or lower) cause I don’t have proper heat transfer or pill now.

I did centering by eye method without centering ring.

But all mentioned is good. Why? There is still room for better centering the pill with Mitko method and larger 26mm mcpcb.

So if you want best performance:

- Arm yourself with nerves cause this ain’t that simple as it looks(especially if you want to go 16or20mm mcpcb route)

- Forget about 16 or 20mm mcpcb when it comes to this light (of course if you can :slight_smile: )

- Listen to Mitko’s advice and get yourself 26mm mcpcb (that will save you a lot of trouble)

- Kapton tape is must for this light and yet if you don’t firmly press reflector in a place (i used super glue for reflector) when you will be tightening the bezel it will catch reflector and it will rotate it over solder joints and kapton tape you previously glued on the bottom of reflector and everything else on flashlight go by bye :slight_smile:

  • I did not used centering ring but very thin one could help.

Did I say that you must get 26mm mcpcb? :slight_smile: Yes i did…

Good old school light. I like it!
And for now I dare to say that Djozz got spectacular results.
My prediction for my setup is around 300+kcd with proper modding(better centering and better pill of course) & + 15% more with old xp-g2 s4 2b.

No reply from Mitko. Anyone still need them?

I will know if i personally want copper pills or not after i receive my light . still waiting….

Got mine, put an XPL-Hi and Bistro in it. Impressive but had trouble getting ther reflector down to the emitter while preventing shorts, has a donut hole. I plan on trying to file it down to see if that will work. A better pill will be ideal

I received mine today . Good anodization , and reflector is great . Mine also came with a decent centering ring , a regular (convoy c8 style) black one .

26mm mcpcb is the way to go … sanded the pill and added a piece of copper in the old mcpcb place .

I will upload more info once i finish the mod .

tip: thin the base of the reflector as much as possible and do the same for the led centering piece.

Hmm , i was thinking not modding the reflector and have a centering ring as thin as it can be .

I’ll have to test it …

Maybe mod the MCPCB?

Cut grooves on the under side of the MCPCB (with diamond coated disc for example), bend the contacts down, file the bottom flat?