I can totally understand that you do not want to go too far over the factory specifications.
But here at BLF we are a bit funny, we do read the specifications but then we test what it can really handle, and we found that the little Omten 1288 is quite happy at more than 15A, I found that it just keeps working at 16A for hours without failing.
But personally, I think that for the factory built E2L the most sensible current is 3A, the light gets hot enough already, and the light output is great. Anyone who wants more current can buy a host and components and build their own hotrod. Or wait for a BLF initiative for a custom triple flashlight.
18350 and 18500 tubes are available, though I find it unfair that Jaxman refuses to sold it alone.
You have to buy the E2L flashlight at the same time or they won’t sell it yo you…
Bad move IMHO Jaxman
My Jaxman M2 is pulling 4.75A at the tail, 2S 14500 for 8.4V and 3014 lumens from the XHP-50.2. Spring is wire bypassed but the switch is the stock one.
I think the LD-3 driver is great in a build like the Jaxman M2 very easy to adjust the current and the UI is great. Besides I can’t build my own drivers soldering wires is right around my skill-set
I just bought two of these from mtnelectronics.com. They seem like an interesting light. Seems much better than my modified SK98 XM-L2 U41C Qlight 3.04 amp lights. More effecient light output and runtime. The quality looks pretty good too. Hopefully this will not disappoint.
I just bought two of these in the XP-G2 neutral white variant, (3C) and I find the tint is too yellow. I’m torn as to weather I should send it back and swap them for cool white 1C versions. I tried comparing the 3C tint (5500k) to my MT-GT Q0 (5000K) and well the MT-G2 looked better and allot less yellow vs the XP-G2 3C @5500K. I mean if anything the XP-G2 should have been more white then yellow… Now comparing my modded SK98 with a XM-L2 U4 1C, I’m liking the cooler look of the 1C.
I’ve got a 4300K-4500K XP-E2 in a C8 that’s quite a nice color, warmish but not overly so. In fact, its hotspot is about my favorite CT/tint just short of a 219B.
My S2+ with a 4C (should be the same exact CT, more or less) XM-L is decidedly yellower, more like in the 5s than 4s.
The spill of the S2+ is way more blue, though. So if you do a ceiling-bounce, the S2+ has a beautiful color overall (after all the color-mixing), but the hotspot is definitely an egg-yolk color.
I think that’s one thing that’s often overlooked. We tend to look at only the hotspot to judge the CT/tint, when the whole integrated spread from the LED is what’s being binned.
The best I can explain to you is the yellow coming from the variant I have, is the color of the sun rising/setting. I was looking more for the color of the sun at mid day, no clouds and clear. White colors seem more yellow than actual white. I’ll see if I can post some photos.
I don’t think I know how to post images correctly to see the difference. I’ll post them but they dont seem to represent what I’m actually seeing. . . The image to the left is the XP-G2 3C S4, and the image to the right is a light with a XP-G3 3C S5. (A custom modded Sk68) (Ill edit this as I go as I’m new to posting like this) The 3C XP-G3 S5 seems to pronounce the whites more than the dingy yellowish XP-G2 3C. Once again I’m not sure you can see it.
Is it possible I have the wrong bin on the Jaxman light? I was thinking it should be more on the white side @ 5500K than on the lower dingy yellow side.
I think I’m going to go for the 1A tints. It’s most likely going to deliver the truer whites I’m looking for. I suppose warmer yellow tints aren’t to my liking. I guess not all 3C tints are exactly the same?
Unno. If these are all TIRs in the E2L, they should do a much better job mixing colors than a reflector would. Maybe you lost the tint-lottery, no idea.
First time I got my 4C tint in an S2+, it took me a while to get used to it, but I kinda grew to like it. Still, the “4300K-4500K” E2 in a C8 is about my favorite tint, short of a Nichia.
Now? Don’t think I’d touch a CW light unless it were with the intention of doing an emitter-swap. Just looks “blue” to me…
Update I was able to swap the two 5000K Neutral White 3C E2L models for the 1A 6500K Cool Whites and I am totally loving it! Cool White is definitely for me! Love the E2L! To my eyes it’s a perfect white. The colors look great and I do not notice any blue tint at all! Goodbye SK98, hello E2L!
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. The image to the left is the XP-G2 3C S4, and the image to the right is a light with a XP-G3 3C S5. (A custom modded Sk68) (Ill edit this as I go as I’m new to posting like this) The 3C XP-G3 S5 seems to pronounce the whites more than the dingy yellowish XP-G2 3C. Once again I’m not sure you can see it.