My oldschool Maglite incans appear VERY WARM compared to LED. In fact, I think that they are warmer than 2700K. The biggest difference in light spectrum sensitivity between incan and most LEDs are red tones. Incans pick up reds very well and blues poorly. This further contributes to the perception that incan is warmer because even if you had an LED and Incan that were the same color temp, the incan would still show much more red and the LED much more blue.
Check out the images in this post on Popular Mechanics here to get an idea.
If I were letting kids use a modern LED flashlight unsupervised, I’d be gluing a diffuser on the front first. Even 3×7135 will produce a high intensity beam at point blank, verging on retinal damage.
Yeah, that’s a good point. 20 years ago, parents didn’t let kids play with Maglites and people were warned about eye damage. Those were only 80 lumens max with a new battery.
Another thought is that even with 3x7135, with Biscotti he could program it to limit it to 50%. That would put max output at around 150-200 lumens. Still probably plenty of light indoors. Still also potentially damaging if kids abuse each other with it or accidentally shine it in their own eyes, but at least it’s less risk than other options without going the “cheap flashlight” route entirely.
Also, not sure if anyone already called this out but OP probably wants a version with the “Orange Peel” reflector since a wider beam is going to be more useful indoors.
These are a couple of photos with three Convoy S2+ with 1A, 4C, and 7A tints. Obviously, a camera image never quite matches the human eye, but they are close. Unfortunately, I don’t have an incan to compare. I would estimate that they are in the lower end of the 70-80 CRI range.
This video really helped me see what these lights were capable of. - YouTube
Also i now use this driver with Guppydrv firmware in mine and it offers a very low low and other good modes. QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER - 17mm
I hope this helps. As a side note ive got a light with the XM-L2 U2 5C tint and it seems like a perfect combo of warm and white.
That, that right there, is really rad. Thanks, my people :laughing: I actually got an S2 in 4C, and I’m very pleased with the beam tint, it’s about as close to incan as I was hoping to get one day. Time will tell if I’ll like the M1 in 7A that’s on the mail better, though I think I will
I can attest to that. Even on the low mode, the S2 with 3x7135 left me seeing stars once; I don’t even wanna imagine if it was on the highest mode if, by a rough estimation I’ve made, it reaches 370lm and you don’t need much more than 200 to consistently blind night-adapted eyes at a short distance, let alone with the surprisingly throwy cone of the S2.
I tried to do this (get new firmware) but there was no way to ‘hold off’ payment. Everything - address, payment, instructions to seller - was in one page and when I clicked proceed (expecting another page where I could ‘hold off payment’ as you suggest), the order was placed.
Should I cancel the order and try again? I don’t want to piss Simon off.
You don’t click on “place order”. You simply don’t click anything “proceed” on the screen listing payment methods, you just back out of that screen and send Simon the message with the requests.
But with the order officially placed on AE, I don’t know. Maybe you two can still work things out?
Maybe Aliexpress has changed but I don’t have any way to ‘back out’ of a payment screen. There’s only three steps.
Add item to cart
Click ‘Buy from this seller’ (takes to checkout page)
Click ‘Confirm and pay’
If I back out from step 3 then I haven’t really done anything other than add item to my cart. Is that what you are saying I should do? Add item to cart and then contact Simon?
Is there any convoy or similar with all these modes (0.1 - 1 - 10 - 20 - 35 - 50 - 100)in one group. The biscotti seems to be missing 20% when in combination with the other modes.
It’s not “missing”, it was left out on purpose by TK. There’s far too little visible difference between 10 and 20, 20 and 35, and 35 and 50 to justify them being all present.
Has the new driver for some Convoy lights (S2+, C8) any other changes, than new firmware (Biscotti)? I mean, is it possible to run it using only 1 of the x (3-8) pieces of 7135 regulator, or it is still using all of them at the lowest modes (e.g. 0.1% and 1%) as well?
If I would like to use low Vf emitters in Convoy S2+ lights, do I have any driver choice with better efficiency, than using x pieces of 7135 regulator.
(These would be for bike lights, I would like to have a good set of low to mid-range levels, nothing above 2A, and no DD - sorry if I off this thread a bit.)
The driver is still single channel, meaning it runs all 7135 chips at the same time. If you only want 2 A maximum, just limit the number of 7135 chips and you should be fine - otherwise you’ll have to swap in a driver with more channels.
is there any option to change the strobe mode for 10 Hz? the biscotti driver made, a crap from ideal light as it was the S2 with the old driver (
everything about this crappy issue with strobe is here Review with X-ray image: Convoy S2+ Desert Tan/Sandy Brown
is there any option to fix it?
(