Thanks Jason, since its been working all this time wired, as is, I’ll just keep it that way. I’m glad I even noticed the reversal, and snapped a pic. I would have been blaming a bad new driver board.
Note to others, check your wiring before disassembly.
My protected Keeppowers just came in today from Banggood. They fit in my newly purchased black L6 (from Gearbest) like a glove. Thankfully no problems here.
If you wire in a new driver or emitter and it doesn’t work, use a multimeter to see if voltage is getting to the emitter. If so, then the polarity might be switched. Unsolder the wires, rotate the star 180*, and solder back.
When I put my new FX30 from kaidomain in the light it didn’t work. I checked everything. I finally tried pressing the side switch and it came on! What a relief. That’s when I realized it had a weird UI programmed into it.
Sweet Giorgo! Yeah, those are really dynamite with that short tube and a pair of 26350’s.
I have about a dozen extension tubes from Mitko, if anyone’s interested in one for what the shipping costs…. that’s all he charged me for em, shipping.
At the time Richard didn’t offer an e-switch compatible Buck driver. I think he has addressed that now and does indeed have that option, or so I’m told by KawiBoy.
And yes, I machined the emitter shelf to fit the 26mm MaxToch copper mcpcb and move the contact points further out. That helps get the reflector down onto the surface of the mcpcb to get critical focus for a tight throwy beam.
I’m about to build a light very similar to that one using an L2 and Richards driver, with an XHP-35 emitter. I’ll employ a pair of 26350’s and retain the short tube. The L2 should be here tomorrow or Sat.
My WAG would be that they’re using extruded tube with the proper inner diameter and all the work is done on the outside, so what you’d be seeing is the “raw” inner surface of the tube. Just a guess, but it’s how I do it if tube is available in the proper diameter. Saves from having to reach way in with a boring bar on my small machine, that and time.
If your multimeter has a diode function it’s the easiest way to check and you won’t have to de-solder from the MCPCB, just touch the leads to the pads, when correct polarity the emitter will glow low like a moon mode. The meter will have a diode symbol.
Has there been a consensus reached for the battery issue? I want to order and last I checked the thread I thought the “approved” batteries were GTG. Have I missed something?
I have been trying to make a single cell one . I have the reflector , driver and the emitter bit not the host … And i don’t know who will machine the mcpcb place
I don’t think there’s an “official” consensus. As I reported yesterday, I just got an L6 and batteries and everything fit just fine. I’m wondering if there just isn’t a “bad” (double wrapped?) batch of batteries floating around.