Good thoughts! The tailcap has knurling on it to improve the overall grip and also of course, to make it match to the head. The groove is just to have a clear stop for the knurling and the thickness of the wall is just as much as at other “thin” spots, so there is no decrease in durability there.
The reason the head is used to change the battery is because the head is larger which makes it easier to grip. The tailcap is very short and I think it wouldn’t be very easy to get a hold of it, especially with the clip besides it. Then you’d also have to be careful to not rotate the clip (so the anodizing doesn’t scratch off). That way I think it’s easier - construction-wise it’s also a little safer because then the driver is fixed in place, which is more important than the switch-PCB being held in place.
heheh this is the A
Who knows when this is a success B C and T might follow. Brass Copper Titanium (dang that it is not called Ditanium :D, can somebody ask the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry to change Ti to Di for us ))
aha I guess you have to figure out where to place the USB charging port and cool the XHP35 first now that you know the size of the tube to make that from brass
Can’t wait on what you are going to do with it, from scratch and not special lights you create art, what would come from starting with something as the FW3A!
…I’m in for one. A triple the size of a sc63? Yes!
I would like to input on the design, add a bevel or chamfer on the middle portion of the body tube, and if the tailcap could use a magnet as a button plus a cutout for a ring magnet + trits, it would be heaven.
We’ve done some computation on that matter and these were rather promising. More data to follow as soon as we have the first prototypes. However, it should be clear that you can’t expect a light of that size with that output to be stable on turbo for extended periods…