Probably right about them being extrusion marks.
My WAG would be that they’re using extruded tube with the proper inner diameter and all the work is done on the outside, so what you’d be seeing is the “raw” inner surface of the tube. Just a guess, but it’s how I do it if tube is available in the proper diameter. Saves from having to reach way in with a boring bar on my small machine, that and time.
If your multimeter has a diode function it’s the easiest way to check and you won’t have to de-solder from the MCPCB, just touch the leads to the pads, when correct polarity the emitter will glow low like a moon mode. The meter will have a diode symbol.
Has there been a consensus reached for the battery issue? I want to order and last I checked the thread I thought the “approved” batteries were GTG. Have I missed something?
Thanks!
This doesn’t work with 6V emitters, at least with my DMM.
I have been trying to make a single cell one . I have the reflector , driver and the emitter bit not the host … And i don’t know who will machine the mcpcb place
I don’t think there’s an “official” consensus. As I reported yesterday, I just got an L6 and batteries and everything fit just fine. I’m wondering if there just isn’t a “bad” (double wrapped?) batch of batteries floating around.
It’s not single cell? The xp-g2 is 3 volt, right?
I’m guess your using a pair of 26350 and the buck driver is dropping the voltage down for it?
Does a regular FET driver not deliver the performance you want?
That’s what I was wondering too. Might as well go with the increased capacity of 1x 26650 instead of 2x 26350. And cheaper/simpler driver, including retention of the e-switch.
All else equal (emitter, driver, battery), I wonder how a L6 w/ SMO would compare against a L2? Sure it’s a slightly smaller reflector and you lose the side switch, but the L2 is considerably cheaper, readily available in host form, has an XP-sized option, and comes with a SMO reflector (vs purchased separately). Beamshots, anyone?
Didn’t think about that, the one I use for this has the diode and continuity check on the same tap position with no way to switch between the two functions, maybe that’s why it works?
ETA: Just went and dug out a couple of other meters, 2 of the 3 won’t light the emitter or beep, the third does. Never thought about it before as the third is the meter I always use.
Ok, thanks much for the info, missed your post initially, sorry.
Well, JasonWW was right it seems my led was in backwards.
I just installed a new TA driver with Narsil, and kept the wires reversed……it works!!! (Thanks Lexel & Texas Ace).
This is huge, big deal for me, as it was my first real mod, with my extreme lack of soldering skills. It ain’t pretty, but it is functional. Now to figure out how to keep the ramping going in the same direction.
A single cell won’t deliver max power through an XP-G2 due to high forward voltage. Using 2 cells with a Buck driver allows 5.5A or more, which one cell alone simply can’t reach.
Etex, pause for about 2 seconds, maybe a second a half, the ramping will continue in the direction you were going before.
Or if you don’t wish to wait, quickly hit button to reverse then release and do it again and you’ll be going “forward” again.
Congrats!
You’ve got the bug now, won’t be your last.
Thanks Dale, that works consistantly now, guess I was being a little to quick on the trigger.
This ramping is soooo coool!
If I’m one to presume, it’d likely be a difference similar to the one between the M1 and the M2: not much, but it’d be floodier.
Now on the note of beams, if we could get an L2 with the same beam profile of the L6, I’d be one very happy flashaholic 
Thanks, Dale (you posting fiend!). I’ve never really messed around with buck drivers, still a lot to learn there.
Thanks, I did happen to buy 2 of those drivers….so I’ll get to do it again. I may have to get a new Iron, the old Weller 3202b seems to be inconsistant.
PM inbound regarding soldering iron…
I love reading all of this, but I do have one question…
Does everyone know that there is a thread entirely dedicated to modding the L2 and L6? HERE IT IS!
I don’t think that I can un-derail a BLF thread
That is beyond my level of influence but I do have to try once in a while!
The main reason I bring this up is that if I were searching for how to mod my L6 or L2 and I were either not a BLF member (ridiculous, I know) or a BLF member who was not as obsessed with this madness as I and most of you are then I would probably look at the modding thread where sadly, I would miss much of this excellent discussion.
Sadly, the modding thread only has a fraction of what is being posted in the main L6 thread. :weary:
So if any of you want to head over there please do! 
The pic in the OP of that thread BTW is a mash-up combo of L2 and L6 modded and stock (the modded version a DB custom) and topped off with a knife customized by our late and great modding mentor and very missed friend, Old Lumens. RIP brother…
It’s just that this thread is seriously notorious… Hey J-Dub, how about you put a description of the mod thread front page first post on top with a link? More people will see it instantly (hopefully) and use it… Just an idea. 