the locator LED/sideswitch LED can be used with tailswitch lights without a problem, that was its main purpose
for lights with no tailswitch a locator LED should have a pretty high resistor, like Texas_Ace wrote to get low parasitic drain, you can still get brighter that trits with parasitic drain af a few 100uA
Thank you for doing this, can’t wait to put them in to use.
EDIT : Just finished putting one of the drivers in a Skilhunt H02, re-flowed the original emitter to a Noctigon MCPCB, the UI is great with lots of options and the ramping is fast and smooth.
My driver arrived today, and is already in his pretty host : Nitecore HC30
What a wonderful UI ! I love the ramping, really intuitive, and fast at the same time !
Thank you very much once again Lexel !
The illumination is way lower than moon or firefly. If it’s normal, it’s not a bad way for me to tell if I have turned tailswitch off, since I don’t have illum switches.
v1.2 has low voltage protection, but no temp control. If you do have temp control, then you have v1.4 and no lvp.
I understood it that tail switch modes had to be programmed into the firmware. They are not user adjusted. Lexel told me it was a few lines of code that had to be altered to get the tactical setting.
I specified temperature control, and they were marked as such, so I guess it is V1.4.
I misunderstood those tail switch options as being user defined. Turbo is the only way to have a momentary function, so its not bad in that respect. And a quick click of the side switch turns it off.
Looking across my acreage, I can quick scan a lot of ground in momentary mode in a second or two with it.
The ramping is awesome, and a lot more user friendly to fine tune the levels than I expected.
The faint LED could be an Infineon vs SIR800 difference, guess we’ll see.
There’s only one 7135 on there so it looks pretty easy to swap out. Maybe you have an old driver you don’t need that you can strip a 7135 off of. If not, MTN Electronics sells them super cheap.
I actually have a stip of 7135’s, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, there’s 8 7135 on one side and the single on the other….???
Oh yeah, post #102 shows the backside. So 9 in total. I wish I knew how to narrow it down to find the faulty one.
Removing all of them and cleaning the pads is not too hard, but soldering new ones would be a pain by hand. You’d need a hot air reflow station and solder paste to do it quick and easy.
Its some pretty bad luck. If you really want to fix it, maybe ask Richard at MTN if he could do it.
Package delivered today. I’ll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered that’s scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. I’ve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.