Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

Just put a XHP35 HI in my L2 host driven with a resistor modded H2-C driver.

Pulls around 8,8A from a liitokala 26650 resulting in just above 2A to the led.

Had to pot the driver in a mix of silicone and silicon carbide because it gets burning hot in a hurry.

Unfortunately i have no pictures of the driver grinded to fit the L2 or potted, just the completed light. I get abit carried away in the moment when im tinkering with my lights.
I will get some pictures when i open it up next time hehe.

Cant get any good beamshots because i only have my phone to take pictures with, trying to find a good spacer height atm i am using one that is 0,7mm and i am pretty ok with the hotspot but i feel like it could be better.

While getting ready to replace my driver in my black L6 I happen to notice the wires reversed.

EDIT: IOW, the stock light from the factory had the leads reversed, red on (-) black on (+).

I checked the wires on the stock driver and they seemed properly placed. JasonWW suggested it was probably the “factory” LED being put on backwards. So I installed a new TA Driver I received from Lexel and just matched the backward wiring on the mcpcb, and it works.

Just making a note here for others to double check before you desolder and not notice wire placement.

Thanks Etex! :slight_smile: At least someone is hearing me! :wink:

It’s an easy mistake to make so I always verify where +/- actually are before installing the mcpcb in the host.

I think you might have misunderstood. (Or did I not understand what you said?)

Someone at the factory installed the xhp70 emitter backwards on the star/mcpcb. So the plus and minus printed on the star are no longer correct.

True Jason, but if the light was working before the mod, simply adhering to the placement of pos/neg wires would have done the trick without worrying about it. I have put one on the star backwards before and wired it accordingly to save time, then later, re-modding it, the wiring was confusing. The simple logic that it worked that way made it clear what I’d done before. :wink:

My L2 should be here tomorrow, left Austin earlier this evening, so I’ll be ready to put the XHP-35 in it and have some fun. :slight_smile:

Anyone with Texas Avenger in a L6, and Narsil experience know if this is normal.

When side switch is turned off, but not off at the tail switch, the emitter has a very low glow, to it. Its almost like having an illuminated switch at the head. Just wondering if I did something wrong.

Did you ask Lexel yet?

I’ve also observed emitters glowing in my 2s 7xXPL light with a FET driver. I also observe the glowing in its current configuration which is a FET and voltage divider, no MCU. I think it is simply the leakage current of the FET. You don’t see glowing in 1s lights because the voltage across the FET is lower so lower leakage current. Also when the batteries in my 2s light are lower voltage, like 3.7V, the glowing is dimmer or non existent.

Thanks EasyB

Maybe I can assume I didn’t get to sloppy w soldering. For my use, it will act as a tail switch “is on” indicator (& battery warning, come to think of it). Very faint spot of light on the ground when walking (arms down). Not even enough light to read a map in the pitch dark.

Try doing an amp draw across the tail cap (EDIT: with the light off on the side switch)

You also might ask Texas Ace since he designed these drivers.

I’ve never heard of this happening, but then again, TA drivers in L6’s are kinda rare.

I’ll let you know if mine does it once I get my driver.

You could always add a led under a clear side switch cover to let you know the rear switch is on. Also to help find the switch at night. :slight_smile:

Wouldn’t you know it…I go reread / youtube amp draw measuring only to find out my Fluke 1587 only does 400ma, and has a blown fuse, to boot.

Remember mine has the Infineon and if your getting SIR800, it may be apples to oranges.

I tested the drivers with a Nichia 219 triple so on LDO drivers I did not drive the driver and LEDs with 2S voltage

My guess on that glow is a faulty 7135 that causes a very low leak current

Ok, thanks for that. Then chances are my second driver may not exhibit the same when I install it.

That makes my one of a kind light, “extra special”. :+1:

You may be right, but I’ve observed the glowing with a FET-only driver with Zener mod.

I just experimented with a couple FETs I bought from mtnelectronics. Their spec is for ~1 microamp leakage current at 0V gate voltage and 20V drain-source voltage. I measured it with an LED in the circuit and got less than 0.1 microamp at 20V (not measurable on my DMM) and the LED did not glow at all. So FET leakage at 0V gate voltage cannot explain the glow. With my sliding resistor 7xXPL light the lowest setting has the gate voltage not equal to 0V, so that could explain some higher leakage in that case. But when I had a FET-only driver with Zener mod I also observed the glowing, so this is unexplained by me.

To satisfy my curiosity I measured the current through an LED necessary to notice the glowing. It needs about 5 microamps to clearly notice the glowing. To measure this I just put a 4.7 megaohm resistor in series with the LED while adjusting the voltage and measuring the current.

My Noctigon Meteor M43 will do this, glow when off. I have 12 XP-L emitters and a single 17mm FET driver, not zener modified as I’m running 4P cells. I have to keep it in lockout or it will drain the cells.

It makes 11,700 lumens in Turbo, so I’m not going to complain about a slight glow when off. :wink: (After I typed that 11,700, my memory question check kicked in. It’s up around 11,000 I know but that specific 11,700 is possibly wrong.)

Found my old cheap meter with 10amp dc capability (I dont have a clamp meter). Made 2 X 6” 10ga leads. Measured Stock L6 vs TA Driver L6 mod on the same Keeppower Protected cells @ 4.16v = 5.4 amp vs 7.6 amp, does that seem reasonably close as comparison? How would 40% increase in amps relate to lumens? I don’t have a lux meter.

Got some of the new Shockli 5500mah on the way, expect they will do better.

I’m new at this.

Look at djozz’s XHP70 measurements to get an idea of the output increase. They are buried in the long XHP70 thread. If you do a Google image search for ’XHP70 test” you will see the graph. Just a rough estimate is 40% increase in current might give you 30-35% increase in lumens.

The shockli cells will perform better. Where did you buy them?

Ordered them direct from Shockli / Windyfire.

Quote from Shockli:

“Please check the below cost of 4pcs Shockli 26650,5500mAh battery

goods value:$4.78*4=$19.12

shipping cost by Fujian post: $8.4, it will take about 20-25 days to your place.

paypal handing fee: $1.1

So the total cost of the order is $28.62,”

Thanks. That’s a real good price if you buy enough to spread out the shipping cost.