making 3. Batch Texas Avenger "TA" / Bistro HD OTSM drivers fully tested running Bistro or Narsil, Clicky or E-switch, SIR800

Ok, no spring on the 22mm. I have some be-cu springs I can cut down and bend a bit to fit.

I got some Be-Cu springs as well, dont need to be cut and bend, they simply fit
but as you solder the positive wire to the top of the spring there is no need for low resistance spring, you can use thin steel springs
The Be-Cu springs are not nearly as flexible as steel springs, first time compressed they get shorter

Correct, the pass-through in the TA drivers means that spring resistance is a non-issue. All that matters is that the spring holds the battery in place and keeps it from hitting the 7135’s.

The potential problem is the length of the springs in the op. I’d have to measure but the original spring on the L5’s driver looks like 6 or 7 mm uncompressed.

We got interest on 30 drivers

a lot more information needed on Narsil version, Temperature and configuration as well if you want springs

When I am ready with it I will send out payment instructions and will order boards and parts

Manual for Narsil v1.4
http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/Narsil_Triple_Manual_v1-3.pdf

NarsilM got released, it is a bit different with temp. calibration in User settings
The only improvement I see in LVP for 2S lights, but it lost some setings to get the UI Settings easier

I’ll take a 17mm bistro HD OTSM no springs, thanks

Ok we met the minimum number of driver to start ordering parts and boards
I will order from digikey this time later when the first Oshpark boards arrive, so the number of drivers is not limited by an early order from digikey parts

Priced for Bistro HD OTSM and NarsilM updated

Option for customized modespacing/modegroups added or you give mne a customized HEX file

Temp? No clue tbh…
Startup?

For the lights 60-70°C for single LED should be OK

for Triples in small hosts it should be less as the head can get hot fast while the LED driver is relatively cold

Lights like the L6 with tailswitch can be set up to go in turbo when battery power is applied, or 2 low blinks or nothing at all
It might be also possible over the advanced setting interface to get the light come up at last memorized level

No clue how fast it would reach that temp. Say 70.

Well startup should be memory or low.

For the temperature setting I would like 50 C on both of mine along with the standard mode spacing. I like starting on low

Thank you.

I would like 4x 17 mm with Bistro HD Attiny25 and long springs please. Thanks

I am trying to figure out how to get the code working to start at low, when the light gets powered on with tailswitch
I hope those settings can be achieved
tailswitch PO: moon (M) low (L) Turbo (T) 2 blinks (2B) mode memory (MM) no output (NO)

On last batch when people did not specify a temperature for protection I set 60°C, not too aggresive but also a temperature where Triples on a Host like Eagle Eye X6 does not overheat
Its a protection if the light gets turned on unattended, lowering the output of the light, not a temperature control keeping the light on that temperatue

50°C is quite low for temperature protection, my nitecore P12 gets to 60°C and it is still comfortable to hold on the tube
Lights with DTP star have no problem to survive over 70°C head temperature,
there should be enough time that a good portion of that heat gets to the driver, of course the driver will always stay a big cooler than the head if its not potted to the shelf of the emitters
so the longer the light needs to heat up the more heat the driver will get as well, so the temperature can be set high

on Convoy S2+ Triles that draw like 12-14A the head gets very fast very hot, while the driver is still on a moderate temperature, there I would go for 50-55°C

Thank you for all that Lexel. Okay, I’ll go for standard 60 C for the temperature. I’m headed in the triple X6 direction. What you say makes sense to me. Thanks again!

I would like one TADO1–38.5mm 1S3P e-switch only, Narsil Triple v1.4

Added info about the springs, to stay below 10mm envelope thickness is 2.2€ cheaper to ship, so they are not soldered to the boards

I will start ordering parts, ask for Narsil configuration and send payment instructions the next days

Quick question: I’m building out 2 jaxman E2L triple hosts (single 18650 cell, nichia 219c leds) with clickie switches. Is there any advantage to having the Bistro HD OTSM in my 17mm drivers?

OK, found the answer & yes, put me down for Bistro HD OTSM

3/26 Flintrock wrote: “OTSM. (I think TA named it that). I think it means off-time sleep mode or something like that. It’s the replacement for OTC in bistro HD. It means that the length of a medium click is as steady as the watchdog timer, which as far as I can tell is about 10% even when hot, which is much better than many caps. It’s also not sensitive to all the resistor tuning that the OTC is, so should eliminate those headaches.”

Yes, the OTSM is by far the better option. The old OTC is the largest complaint I have had with BLF drivers by far.

Put me in for a 17mm and 30mm. 30mm w/ e-switch, 2S (5V cutoff) and Narsil. 17mm with Bistro HD, 1S, 2.5V cutoff.

I highly recommend 2.8 or 3V LED cutoff voltage, down to 2.5V there is almost no capacity and the cell ages a lot more when discharged that low