new batch is almost ready to go I said I start ordering stuff when 30 drivers are requested and will order parts for 50
Thereās only one 7135 on there so it looks pretty easy to swap out. Maybe you have an old driver you donāt need that you can strip a 7135 off of. If not, MTN Electronics sells them super cheap.
I actually have a stip of 7135ās, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, thereās 8 7135 on one side and the single on the otherā¦.???
I actually have a stip of 7135ās, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, thereās 8 7135 on one side and the single on the otherā¦.???
Oh yeah, post #102 shows the backside. So 9 in total. I wish I knew how to narrow it down to find the faulty one.
Removing all of them and cleaning the pads is not too hard, but soldering new ones would be a pain by hand. Youād need a hot air reflow station and solder paste to do it quick and easy.
Its some pretty bad luck. If you really want to fix it, maybe ask Richard at MTN if he could do it.
I hope itās a rare occurrence.
Package delivered today. Iāll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered thatās scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. Iāve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.
Package delivered today. Iāll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered thatās scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. Iāve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.
Wait what? Grey battery tube for a D01? :smiling_imp:
Iāve been trying to get an idea how these are made and I found a really good video on reflow ovens. Thereās lots of good info here.
Lexel, are you using a small oven like this or a different method?
I got my driver today!
I havenāt installed it yet.
For you guys with L6ās and who want to know when your rear switch is on and off as well as more easily find the side switch in the dark, then check out this thread starting at post 265.
I try my best to describe how to make a lighted side switch that comes on when the tail switch is on. Itās handy whenever you have a driver that can turn the flashlight on and off with the side switch.
I havenāt installed my TA driver yet, but I have the pads labeled where you would connect the switch and led power. Iāll be confirming all this soon.
2 decently bright leds caused a 0.4 milliamp drain. I use my light for brief blasts here and there at work and the tail switch stays on roughly 40 hours per week, then I recharge the batteries. This extra drain has no effect at all for me.
Now sitting on a shelf with the tail switch on for months at a time Iām sure would drop your battery voltage. Then again, if itās going to sit and not be used, then turn the tail switch off. Duh. Lol
Amp draw while on standby was 0.48 milliamps. About 0.4 of that is the LEDs I added. So the driver itself is only about 0.08 milliamps. Thatās lower than I expected. My Kaidoman version FX30 driver had a 1.45 milliamp draw all by itself.
I hope this helps others.
Installed one of the narsil TA drivers into my skilhunt h03 tonight. Every thing is working great, except for the indicator led which Iām sure is user error. Iāll open it up later and figure out what I did wrong.
Thanks lexel for putting these together. They all look great. Now I got a few more projects to keep me busy for a little while.
Installed one of the narsil TA drivers into my skilhunt h03 tonight. Every thing is working great, except for the indicator led which Iām sure is user error. Iāll open it up later and figure out what I did wrong.
Make sure the led positive is on the indicator resistor and that polarity is correct.
I donāt know which driver you have, but there are pictures in the 1st post. It shows 2 points where the indicator led is attached. The one with the resistor is positive, the other is negative. Of course the little led your using will also have a positive and negative marking on it.
I found some instructions for version 1.2 of Narsil, but I donāt know how to enter the config mode and make changes. Can anyone explain it to me or make a video maybe?
Thanks.
Narsil v1.1 manual has same instructions to enter config modes as newer ones
Configuration UI Operation
For Ramping, the button is held for 8 seconds, and for Mode Sets, the button must be held for 2.5 seconds to activate the main Configuration UI settings. The light will blink 2 times quickly, and once slowly to indicate the Configuration UI mode is active. There are 7 settings, listed in the table below. You can change or leave any of these settings ā thereās no need to set each one. Clicks choose the value for each setting, and each click will blink the light to acknowledge the click. If no clicks are entered in 4 seconds, the light jumps to the next configuration setting indicated by 2 quick blinks and slow quicks of the number for what setting it is (ex: 3 slow blinks means the 3rd setting). You can bypass the timeout by doing a click&hold to skip to the next setting. If you continue to hold it, it will exit configuration UI settings mode altogether, indicated by 4 quick blinks.
Narsil v1.1 manual has same instructions to enter config modes as newer ones
Configuration UI Operation
For Ramping, the button is held for 8 seconds, and for Mode Sets, the button must be held for 2.5 seconds to activate the main Configuration UI settings. The light will blink 2 times quickly, and once slowly to indicate the Configuration UI mode is active. There are 7 settings, listed in the table below. You can change or leave any of these settings ā thereās no need to set each one. Clicks choose the value for each setting, and each click will blink the light to acknowledge the click. If no clicks are entered in 4 seconds, the light jumps to the next configuration setting indicated by 2 quick blinks and slow quicks of the number for what setting it is (ex: 3 slow blinks means the 3rd setting). You can bypass the timeout by doing a click&hold to skip to the next setting. If you continue to hold it, it will exit configuration UI settings mode altogether, indicated by 4 quick blinks.
Thatās just a copy and paste from the manual which is not too clear for my understanding.
So I hold down the side switch 8 seconds to go onto config mode. That I know.
If I want to disable all blinkies for instance, do I then click 7 times and wait for a confirmation, then click once to change the setting? Maybe it blinks once to confirm?
Then do I press and hold the switch to exit?
If I want to disable all blinkies for instance, do I then click 7 times and wait for a confirmation, then click once to change the setting? Maybe it blinks once to confirm?
Then do I press and hold the switch to exit?
It will progress though each setting number. It will flash 5 times to indicate your on setting number 5, then make your choice, let it time out or skip to go to setting 6. To disable bpinkies wait until it gets all the way to setting 8, then press one time.
Yes to exit just press and hold
Just enter config mode holding eswitch 8 seconds
Light aknowleges that
Then take your time and let the lights cycle through all of it
Its similar to Bistro, just when you see in Bistro a buzz to do a half press to enter, now click sideswitch 2 times to choose option 2 or 3 times for option 3
Iāll try it out. Iāll let it go until I see 7 flashes then click once. Hopefully that works. Once I get the hang of it Iāll do a video so others know what to expect.
Sadly, I donāt have a light with Bistro. I know, I know. Iām probably the only person left who doesnāt. :cry:
Alright, I think I figured out the config mode, but itās not working.
I ignore the first 2 blinks then count out the rest. When it gets to 7 normal blinks I press the button once and the light comes on once. Then I get the 4 or 5 flashes saying itās finished.
The problem is I still have strobes and biking flashes, etcā¦
Here is the setting sheet for Narsil v1.1 and v1.2.
It shows that number 7 is for the blinkies and that 1 click should disable them. Iām not sure why itās not working.
The first couple times I did my single click after 7 blinks I got a confirmation blink. A few times I didnt. Once it took 2 clicks to get a single confirmation blink.
Hmmm, itās possible my lighted side switch is interfering with the signal. DBCustom has a different driver and his lighted side switch was interfering with basic operation like ramping up and down. He swapped his 50k resistor with a 75K and it started working fine. Iām using a 15k, so Iām gonna try upping my resistor size and see if that works.
could you split the ground from LED and switch, that definately get rid of problems
I will test this out on a Narsil v1.4 light