Also:
Where does one get W2 emitters?
I got several leftovers from Uniquefire/t20 hosts that i usualy craft as IR
As far as i know Cutter has them, for Europe - Arrow EU and Farnell
We are talking XPL W2's? Not XPL2 W2's?
On Cutter, I can only find them on a triple board (http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2752), then in the description it says they are V4's, so who knows what you really get.
On Arrow.com (US?), definitely no W2 bins of XPL's
I'd really like to see a link - dunno how to get to Arrow EU. Not familiar with Farnell at all...
Mitko ---- please, please try to give us a little more than bread crumbs. Please?
The vagueness and lack of availability of LEDs we all want to have is quite annoying…
Same with drivers by the way…
.
But i also received this light today. 
Didn’t even test it, took it apart immediately. 
I’m gonna use the stock pill, but i’ll have to do stuff to it on the “McGyver lathe” so it can take 20mm MCPCB.
I’ll be using a KD DTP board and i will tweak it so it won’t short circuit on the reflector.
I don’t want to spend $5 on a big DTP board for a $13 light.
I’ll put in a XP-L HI V3 and a Nanjg 105 2.8 Ampere driver, maybe add 3 or 4 extra 7135s.
I assume the stock driver is crap and has visible PWM.
Mine is a linear driver, no coil.
.
The nice thing about the KD DTP boards is that the thermal slug protrudes further than the + and - traces, so the reflector can sit on the thermal slug of the board.
.
Stock, this light has several problems with things that don’t fit too well.
Obviously the known problems in the head, but also the switch assembly is too tall.
When you screw the tail cap on, the battery tube hits the retaining ring and turns it either fast or loose.
For the rest, i’m happy with this purchase.
I was looking at the bezel and threads. How and where the o-ring sits to the threads. If you have a lathe, you might consider cutting the body (bezel threads) the depth/width of the o-ring, make a spacer for where the original o-ring is now, so the O.D. is the same as the bezel/head. Then extend the thickness where the o-ring was, forward into the threads. Doing so will move everything forward from the reflector to the lens. That, in turn will give more clearance for the MCPCB (thicker) without the reflector making contact with the LED on the board and shorting out. That, will allow ample space to play with heatsink thickness and focusing if necessary.
Hopefully I make sense. That was a mouthful (and 4 proof-reads..LOL!) for me to explain.
Now, use any board you desire.
I think what I mention is the best solution, and I've never modded a light in my life.
Pretty sure you’re missing something ARsee. The perspective of reflector to mcpcb is the critical point, not how the reflector fits the pill or head assembly. Moving everything forward wouldn’t solve the focus problem, which is a wide flat base on the reflector that touches the pads on a narrow mcpcb. With a lathe, the reflector can be tapered to allow room for these pads… just as easily the emitter shelf can be widened for a larger diameter mcpcb that clears the reflector, and it’s this part that is so much easier to do.
The way I see it, my method eliminates the fuss of not having space at the heatsink now. Which from reading the replies regarding the light, is the main problem. My way opens space at both ends and gives more possibilities to a solution
Mitko. You are cool guy and I am very grateful to you for finding this great single cell throw monster throw reflector.
My pill that I put out from T20 host does not fit into Soup cause it has 1mm shorter threads. Sure I could put it and glue it somehow but that is a mess.
So curious case of Benjamin Button? I mean your T20 pill fits while mine not
Anyway pill is weak point but nothing that can’t be handled so I will not mention this again…
Mitko… You are legend and this light host by fit and finish is far better than some brand lights. Also I dare to say that you found Jacob A60 killer… Beautiful old school(imho), nice to hold and touch, small&light pocket rocket reflector.
Yeah, you’re right.
The pill is too tall to fit between the battery tube and the reflector.
You can gain the necessary space by taking 1.5 mm off the front end of the battery tube and 0.5 mm from the bottom of the pill.
Me too.
I like the ‘old school-ness’ of this light.
:+1: 
(i think it’s a little ugly with the fins on the head, but who cares)
Sorry Mitko - don't mean to sound upset at all. I know you're bizy and probably doin all this on a cell phone. But I'm very interested in get'n/finding some W2's. Whatever info you can provide, appreciate it!! Thanx!! 
Interested in building these for anyone?
Phew…
I dremeled, drilled, lathe-ed (without a lathe…), sanded and filed the hell out of the pill, DTP board, battery tube, switch spacer and retaining rings and i think it’s ready for assembly now.
I’ll share some pics tomorrow.
Please don't tell me it's
No, it’s not a carrot on a string. (?)
Change carrot to flashlight. ;)
Don’t forget to share numbers also… This is a lot of job and I really don’t see how it could be simpler than just ordering 26mm mcpcb with a lot of clearance for reflector and adding a copper chunk beneath it on that nasty aluminum pill but I am very interesting to see what you did.
I’m not sure if this was more work, but at least i didn’t have to wait another month for parts and it only cost me a DTP board, although i also replaced the switch with a smaller footprint one to make a spring bypass.
I’ll get my camera and post pics later.
Okay, here’s some pics then:
The butchered DTP board.
The butchered board, pill and driver retaining ring.
So the leads go trough the outside of the pill and bent back to go on the DTP board
I’m still considering some screws to fix the board to the pill though.
Driver retaining ring opened up for Nanjg 105, with the 7135s near the edge.
Under side of the board and pill.
Looks a bit messy, but it’ll do just fine.
Didn’t want to touch the reflector, but decided to file the edges down a bit to gain some more room for the solder joints on the DTP board.
So there it is, there’s a decent gap for a soldered wire.
Here the reflector rests on top of the DTP board
In all there is some room for a thin spacer too, if that’s necessary for the best focus.
No picture of the battery tube, but i took off around 1.7 mm of the front end.
It can now be screwed tight in to the head, everything fits now.
Hi jerommel, I have my flashlight on the way, wanted to put driverNanjg 105, you have to modify it to place it? Or fits well? , This, regards!