[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

I dont know if there is enough space for it. There is realy verry less space between driver and shelf.

German Palight BOSS1 - XHP35HI - 2,5A | Taschenlampen Forum
English Palight BOSS1 - XHP35HI - 2,5A | Taschenlampen Forum

German Review Palight Boss1 (XM-L2, 1 - 4x 26650) | Taschenlampen Forum
English: Review Palight Boss1 (XM-L2, 1 - 4x 26650) | Taschenlampen Forum

Here is a A17DD_L on top of the standard-driver. But the pictures are not aviable without account:
German http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/vorstellung-palight-boss1-goes-xm-l2-dd-warmweiß-a17dd_l.49315/

I am not sure what components were selected but the buck IC itself can drive any combo of input and output voltage as long as the output is less then the input. Just a matter of what components are installed on the driver.

I had wanted to do a buck driver when this project started but no one was offering to help with the EE of it at the time. So the only option was the Texas buck which was not an option due to cost.

I have been watching this from the start and tried my hardest to resist but I give in.
Please add me to the list.
Thank you.

As TA said, the driver should work in any arrangement where the battery voltage is sufficiently higher than the emitter(s) voltage. That said, efficiency suffers when going to the extreme, like 4S battery to 3 V emitter. This is just a fact of life for (non-synchronous) buck convertors.

3S to 6 V emitter(s) will be a pretty nice setup.
2S to 3 V should be fine.
2S to 6 V will probably not stay in regulation for very long.

With the current components, the driver will not work in a 1S setup. It could be made to work with a few component changes, but it will drop out of regulation too fast.

This light is huge. For me maybe it will be a shelf queen, and pretty expensive for me. My most expensive light was the Convoy L6. I almost asked to remove me from list but it is so unique that I can not miss this so I’m staying on the list and wait :smiley:

Heheh you never know
Having 1 S70 I thought no more power was needed
Now a S70s at front door (when night falls I turn it on standby so the lighted switch shines reassuring)
A L6 at back door ground level
A TN42 at back door first floor
A S70 near back door first floor

I tend to use the most powerful
So well just know it will be the GT and Q8 at back door first floor and then the TN42 will be placed at front door besides the S70s.

Yesterday viewed google maps and measured distances in my area about what far things going to fit the GT range from higher places. And I was simply amazed by that. My best thrower was the L2 dedomed with 1048m throw. I thought that was far. :person_facepalming:

mark
list updated!

I guess the largest issue is that this driver will only really work for the GT as it doesn’t have the cell setup to allow it to be modded to 2s or 4s input from a SRK. At least the road has been paved and a SRK / Q8 version should not be that hard to make.

I would love to see this driver in a Q8 with an 841 or 1617 MCU and firmware upgrades to match and the LED’s run ins series.

This flashlight is ridiculous, I’m in!

+1 I'm borderline giddy with the idea of using a 1617...

16 KB, 12-22 I/O pins: http://www.microchip.com ATTINY1617, http://ww1.microchip.com 1617 specs

95 cents: https://www.digikey.com ATTINY1617

Please put me on the list.

Please add me for one if there is still room on the list. Many thanks.

Have you seen this Tom?

Its a boost driver but a buck uses the same components in a different layout, programming would be kind of similar. Wikipedia does a pretty good job of covering the different types of converters if someone is not familiar with them.

Components need optimizing and you could use a hall effect current sensor for output feedback(Change in current=change in voltage signal, both are electrically isolated). It would keep more noise away from the controller and the schottky diode could be replaced with a FET for more current control and less power loss. Make it Narsil based and the output modes feed the converter with a feedback loop instead of the PWM outputs. You could do more than one channel with all those pins. If you stagger the FET firing sequence it would cut down on ripple and allow a smaller output capacitor. The inductors could be different sizes, shut the big one off for low modes. The PWM would still be high on the small inductor so flickering would be less noticeable on moon.

How hard would it be to program something like this? Could a determined newb do it?

Please put me on the list.

Thanks!

Yeah will update list later.

Interesting WTF!
New MCUs might even deserve a new thread for it sure sounds way too interesting to be buried in the GT thread not all will follow.

There are MCUs with built-in SMPS functionality, but not the typical ones we use.

One problem is the relatively low PWM switching frequency. The L1 part on the GT prototype driver would need to be physically ~10x larger to get the same performance. There are other issues as well, like having proper low-impedance driver(s) for the FET (s).

Firmware can be relatively simple. The LM3409 used in the prototype driver uses simple ‘hysteretic’ control: Inductor current gets to set-point, FET switches off. Current drops below set-point far enough and the FET switches back on. No PID loops or compensation issues. But without a dedicated SMPS chip, the SMPS-related logic needs to be robust. In a buck driver a software glitch could be instant death to the emitter.

Indeed, I have thought about using the MCU to control a buck before and it is very possible but also a lot more complicated. If you have the space and budget for the buck IC it is a lot better to just use that. If space or budget is limited then using the MCU would be a good idea.

For example in a 17mm buck space is so tight you might have to go with an MCU controlled buck just to have enough room to fit everything on the driver.

What do you think is the smallest size to get a good buck driver with comfortable parts spacing, TA?

It all depends on what you want it to do. The amount of current that the driver can handle is going to be directly related to the size and cost of the components. These are things you can’t escape.

For a low current driver, say 3A, you can get a pretty small driver, 17mm for sure, maybe even 15mm or smaller. For a higher power driver, say 6A, 17mm would be a tight fit for sure as seen by the mtnmax with it’s 5.5A limit.

That could be vastly improved on in the feature and firmware but the actual current could not be improved all that much without going to an external coil.

If you did go to a stacked coil inductor setup, then figure you could get a fair bit more current out of the driver, not sure exactly what components options there are but I would guess that a tall 17mm driver would max out around ~8-10A without potting the driver, although even that would be hard as shown by past attempts.

This is why higher voltage is going to become more and more important. Regulating more then 8-10A gets exponentially harder in these small lights. On the other hand regulating a higher voltage setup with lower current is easy.

For example this GT driver would die a very swift death if used in the Q8 with 20+A of current at 1s. You would need something like the Texas buck to handle 20A at 1s and even the Texas buck was only designed to handle 15A. The cost would go from $10 to$25+ to handle that extra current.

On the other hand if we raise the voltage to 4S we only need 5A of current to give us the same output power, this means we can use the much cheaper GT setup and get a more reliable driver as well since it will not run as hot.

As a side bonus we can maintain regulation longer with higher voltage.

This is why I am a big fan of higher voltage, it simply works better for all mathematical, electrical and scientific aspects.

This is also why I am a big fan of the 21700 cell. With the larger cell comes larger drivers, that extra space gives us a lot of wiggle room for driver designs.