Update: 10-22-17. KRONOS K70 GB. $50. 243 on list!

I’d like to take one.

NOT IN, but watching! :smiley:

In for one!

I`m in for one please.
…If it’s possible to use XHP70.2 final ?

Please, put me down for one. Thx.

Put me down for one please. Thanks!

Regards, Hardware

Dang this topic dropped of the front pages fast, a shame so here you go with a bump :wink:

Love the L6 anti roll cutouts smacked on a S70(S)/Jax Hunter head. You guys took the two popular XHP70 lights and used the one with the best cooling properties (good!)
For all the Convoy fans using a clear design feature of the L series, very smart.

I can’t recall what brand uses that diamond tube, something with pineapple in torch name
Clever clever!

I`m in for one please.

I already have the L6, but i cant let this pass. Put me two please.

I’m in for one.

I’ve seen thermal imaging tests taken as a light was turned on and in the first seconds as the heat made it’s way through the heat sink. They said the pattern was almost exactly an inversion of the light coming out the front, so if you consider the light out the top as the top half of an X and the heat out from under the emitter as the bottom half of this X, you see where the heat needs to go for fast and immediate dispersal.

Having fins on the head, up by the reflector, is simply not efficient. Sure, eventually those fins will transfer some heat to the surrounding air, but the light has to get saturated first, allowing the emitter to sit in it’s own heat for far too long a period.

Deep fins in the expanding cone of thermal path would be most effective. And yes, if aesthetic fins on the head need to be figured in then the pill and head should ideally be one piece for effective saturation transfer.

The centering ring is almost always made of a plastic material, effectively insulating the heavy aluminum reflector against drawing heat away from the mcpcb or substrate. Would be nice if this large piece of aluminum were to be optimally mated to the head and a copper centering ring used to allow effective contact for thermal expansion into the upper part of the head/reflector to aid the lower heat sink. My 2 cents.

Reminded me of this guy:

Some 4 or 5 years back, the Solarforce S2200 and S1100 had that large diamond knurling.

The Solarforce had the diamonds as squares, so not quite the same thing. The MecArmy PT16 is also similar…

At any rate, it’s a nice grip platform to be sure, especially on the larger diameter battery tube’s such as this.

Muto, Muto

2 please, looks Awesome!
Thanks,
Keith

Yup, put me down for one!

This looks awesome, any chance on a ~4000K NW tint option?

Is the side switch built into the driver? If so, that will make it very hard to do a driver swap.

Also, what size is the driver?

So this thing may make sense after all. I always thought the cooling fins were in the wrong place. Maybe not.

I have to disagree with you on this one, buddy. Heat does not flow directionally like in your picture. When the emitter heats up that copper MCPCB, the heat gets spread across it very evenly. Not perfectly, but decently. This is why larger diameter MCPCB’s do a better job at transferring heat.

Once that copper disc gets hot, the heat transfers into the aluminum below it and starts spreading out evenly like a drop of water on a sponge. Areas that are thick will take longer to heat up than thin areas. This means the thin areas will get hotter first.

Did you see a thermal image of a flashlight cut in half? I’m guessing it was a whole light. What you probably saw was the battery tube and other thin areas down low start to “heat soak” so to speak, while the thicker areas around the head was still soaking up the energy (heat).

The photo you show pretty much proves that. Thermal imaging shows actual temperatures. The fact that the temps were lower around the thick sections all around the emitter shows this design is doing it’s job and keeping things cooler.

Does that make sense?

It’s important to understand that fins only add some extra surface area to the total surface area of the flashlight. The more surface area you have, the lower the max temperature the flashlight will get.

Mass is what slows down the flashlight from getting to that max temperature. Mass is what can make a 30 second max turbo time into a 90 second max turbo time.

There are lots of different combinations of surface area, mass, energy production and time so there’s no one universal design. Every flashlight needs to have the right balance based on its unique design and needs.

Put me down for 1 please :slight_smile: