Update: 10-22-17. KRONOS K70 GB. $50. 243 on list!

Yup, put me down for one!

This looks awesome, any chance on a ~4000K NW tint option?

Is the side switch built into the driver? If so, that will make it very hard to do a driver swap.

Also, what size is the driver?

So this thing may make sense after all. I always thought the cooling fins were in the wrong place. Maybe not.

I have to disagree with you on this one, buddy. Heat does not flow directionally like in your picture. When the emitter heats up that copper MCPCB, the heat gets spread across it very evenly. Not perfectly, but decently. This is why larger diameter MCPCB’s do a better job at transferring heat.

Once that copper disc gets hot, the heat transfers into the aluminum below it and starts spreading out evenly like a drop of water on a sponge. Areas that are thick will take longer to heat up than thin areas. This means the thin areas will get hotter first.

Did you see a thermal image of a flashlight cut in half? I’m guessing it was a whole light. What you probably saw was the battery tube and other thin areas down low start to “heat soak” so to speak, while the thicker areas around the head was still soaking up the energy (heat).

The photo you show pretty much proves that. Thermal imaging shows actual temperatures. The fact that the temps were lower around the thick sections all around the emitter shows this design is doing it’s job and keeping things cooler.

Does that make sense?

It’s important to understand that fins only add some extra surface area to the total surface area of the flashlight. The more surface area you have, the lower the max temperature the flashlight will get.

Mass is what slows down the flashlight from getting to that max temperature. Mass is what can make a 30 second max turbo time into a 90 second max turbo time.

There are lots of different combinations of surface area, mass, energy production and time so there’s no one universal design. Every flashlight needs to have the right balance based on its unique design and needs.

Put me down for 1 please :slight_smile:

One please.

Djeez, marking this post as rude?
:person_facepalming:

But thanks to input I now know the name of the light with the diamond knurled tube that popped into my head when I first sat the OP.
So cute…thanks Dale!

Interested, one light.

I like the design, i want it!
Remember that i have enough flashlights, i do not need another flashlight, i repeat, i do not need another flashlight
But i want it so badly :person_facepalming:

Knurling reminds me to the Klarus Mi7 Ti :wink:

Exactly what i was thinking!
It is a good looking flashlight, but as i am a real Dutch guy (raised as a zuinige Groninger), i think it is quite expensive, (especially when compared to the Q8)

What is so unique that it justifies the price?

I want the battery tube and tail cap!!! :heart_eyes: I’ll make it fit my L2!! :wink:

Interest light update to here.

Thanks, guys!

It’s like the Chuck Norris of battery tubes and tail caps.

I’m interested in one

While I don’t completely agree with either of you I support DB Custom’s point that the cooling fins aren’t in the best place. The way heat spreads out is comparable to how a liquid without gravity would flow (imagine the liquid has it’s source right under the LED). It goes into the direction of the smallest resistance. So the first few cooling fins are pretty deep and I am sure you would see a better thermal performance if they’d not be as deep. When designing the BLF GT we also did extensive thermal analysis and the results were pretty clear - having the fins distributed around the shelf yields a significantly better thermal performance compared to having them above the shelf (here we even disregarded any transitional resistances). See the following thermal analysis of a BLF GT design with fins around the shelf and fins above the shelf:

Edit: Also, the thicker the walls, the more evenly the heat gets distributed and more heat can flow away from the source. Again, think of the liquid, the thicker the walls the more space there is for the liquid to flow away.

In for one

The testing I saw some time back was a simulation, with a reflector on the mcpcb but a solid heat sink underneath. The heat flowed into the heat sink in a pattern almost identical to the output of the light up top. Given our light has a driver bay and thus there are re-directs, proper positioning of fins is critical.

I’ve been drawn to the Eagle Eye X6 for this very reason since it came out and I’ve made some pretty intense little monsters on the X6 as a host over the past few years.

It’s a delicate balance, heat sourced and heat removed, quite a dance really. Simple changes can throw off a nice design, or make it better, everything in it’s perspective of course.

Really?
Questions asked not answered?
Come on this is your debut as commercial party!

EDIT below this:

Oh man,again with the rude? Well for this I can’t feel bad or se what is so rude about it, would have asked for engagement if a seller started a thread introducing a light, got questions and only reacte “thanks for interest” and not answered any questions, but the rude markings make it easy to find the post might t be needed later down the path.

Ah, good!
Questions are edited in, let me see what I could have missed from the OP in relation to the many questions:

1 question:

yes partially answered, see remark about S70S below.
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1 question:

the S70S has 5 minute stepdown, this was received very well, see remarks about S70S (which you sem to have missed to come out months ago)
The S70s with its longer stepdown period still preforms pretty nice in the heat department, it has been tested and spoken about on BLF a lot :wink:
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1 question:

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2 questions:

Nope not answered yet, also not in OP.
here the thicker integrated shelf is addresses, would probably not make much difference but adding no costs to the making for sure. More on this later when Dale and Fritz chime in.
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3 questions:

Nope not answered in OP (it almost seems like you guys missed the S70S coming out with the same heavy OP reflector you show, a moon mode in the driver, all it seems now you have asked Thorfire to do is a long click to reverse and bypass the sensing resistors and think this is all a huge improvement over the S70. Yes guys, the S70S driver with its moon and beacon side led was indeed an improvement but it already came out months ago :wink:
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1 question, that modern XHP70.2 again:

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3 questions:

1 fins around the and below the ledshelf?
2 head in one piece? (again this question)
3 use the reflector as part of heat management?
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1 question:

Ah since you seemingly missed the launch of the S70S, let me bring you up to speed on another thing that has been going on on BLF in your absence, the friendly yet heated ( :slight_smile: ) debate about the S70/S70S and L6. A major advantage the L6 objectively has over the S70 and S70S is the choice in LEDs and tint. Since you seem to try to get design features of the L6 combined with the S70 and S70S you really can make an objective step forwards in tint/led options here.
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2 questions

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1 question

There, you see, even a simple “we will answer questions in due time” is better then not saying anything, for the questions will pop up again :wink: better address them or say you will as you now did so people can know it is taken into account.
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1 question:

seemingly about the two part head (so another question about this)
But it was about or also about the shelf itself:
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1 question:

In due time, Miller.

In the meantime, I am wondering if you diligently read our original post all the way through? Some of your comments and questions are already addressed there…

Cheers