That is something which i have learned different, it is all about area, so more fins (leaving in the middle if they have to be thick or thin) create a larger surface area, so the device can get rid (dissipate) the heat faster.
Left is BAD fin location, right is GOOD fin location:
Left is overall hotter and has a 5 degrees higher shelf temperature:
Same settings and loads and coefficients and time and same everything (well apart from fin location).
Also this comparison only considers the location of the fins.
This would be true if the area very close to the led would be of very high temperature (white in colour); then you would have poor heat sinking, as with a thin screw-on led board.
I was really interested until I realised that this is basically an over driven S70S with a pretty body and a bigger board.
If that’s it then I don’t see why it is worth it.
It looks like it’d just going to get silly hot, have a temperature drop down after 3 minutes which even Thorfire fixed and then its the case of crappy replies.
If I was asking questions to a seller and they started getting shirty with me I’d move along and buy something else. The pre-sale is the chance to show off how amazing you are, how much you care about your customers, how much you know about your product and the time to get to really sell it. If you’re just skipping over questions and saying “wait” whats the point in posting it to begin with.
It is an idea we can certainly look into. To make it happen would require a redesign of the head/reflector and possibly a new round of samples/prototypes (potentially more delays)…but we’ll see what we can come up with!
Here are some simpler to employ ideas. Just leave some extra mass where avaliable (the red areas) assuming the driver cavity is not filled up by a big coil.
Then more surface area below the fins on the bottom part of the head. These are small changes, but could really help with cooling.
Is the side switch going to be able to turn the light on and off or will it only switch modes?
If only switch modes, that means you have to make the light feel good with a reverse grip on the end so your thumb can hit the end switch to turn on and off. You have kind of a bulky end cap. Maybe it’s size feels good, maybe awkward? I would just make sure it feels good.
Personally I like turning my L6 on and off with the side switch with the rear being a lock out.
Have you guys came up with a firmware yet? Something like the ramping UI in Narsil would really make this light stand out from the rest. There are very few factory lights that have ramping. Having it would help justify the higher price. It would make it a more premium light to match it’s upscale looks.
Maybe do a factory bypass on the springs like the L6. Possibly use braided copper instead of a wire.
You could even offer a hot rod version of this light with a FET driver. 11 or 12 amps would really be spittin out the lumens.
9 amps is not bad, though. What would that be in lumens, over 5,000? Pretty decent.
Also make sure the battery tube is long enough for both short, 65mm, and long, 70mm, batteries. I’m sure some folks would want to use the protected KeepPower 5200 cells which were a bit too long for the L6. They are good for at least 9.7 amps.