The AR coated lenses I’ve used typically have a net effect of filtering shorter wavelengths. Maybe UCLP is better?
1C3 can you give a link to those really nice lanyards you use on your lights ?
Not really. I calibrated the voltage and turned off the red/green indicators, but that was about all it needed. It makes high-pitched noise on some modes, but she can’t hear it.
It’s not as nice as Narsil, but I don’t have Narsil drivers hanging around, so this was as close as I could get.
Ah, it could be an emitter tint issue. I wouldn’t generally expect that from a high-CRI light, but I haven’t tried many EZwhite emitters.
It’s too bad Zebralights are so difficult to open or modify. I’d love to take the lens off and find out how it looks on a white cloth. For example, here’s what happened when I put an Olight S10 lens next to a plain piece of glass. I’ve seen similar results from other brands, but have never been able to test a Zebralight this way:
Put a UCLp lens on white paper and it virtually disappears… smaller sizes in glass are the same.
Edit: Pics… The Eagle Eye X5 came with a quite nice but thin AR coated glass lens. It’s the one on the left in the following pictures. On the right is a UCL glass lens to fit this X5 light. Water white glass, best coating in the industry, bar none.
Eagle Eye lens over the flashlight, as lit by the custom X5 with High CRI Nichia 219B emitter.
flashlightlens.com UCL lens over the flashlight, again as lit by the X5 with High CRI Nichia 219B emitter. (both had the light in mule configuration, reflector to the side.)
Side by side with the flashlight underneath, in mule configuration. The green visible in the blurred background is the battery box.
Pics as taken by the Canon 1DsMkII, jpegs, SOOC (straight out of camera). I cropped to show like size images of each, no further adjustments aside from my watermark applied.
Neither of those two, after cutting a circle that fit in the bezel reasonably well, I spread some super attak as thin as possible on a sheet of paper and rolled the edge of the circle on it, then put it on the light (I made a quick representation so it’s clear ).
This way it sticks strongly, there is no glue between the filter and the glass interfering with its optical properties, and it should be easy to remove without leaving much residue.
I highly recommend UV hardened Display glue to glue the full area of the filter that way there is no gap producing losses reflecting light back inside the flashlight
xp-g2 is a led i really like , especially for pocket rocket mods .
Today i had my modded ut02 (dded xp-g2 , 300kcd) with me , every single time it amazes me 
Unforunately took a sh**ty pic :
This is the cheapest way that I know of to get some good lumens out of these cheap SRK's The copper disks I use come from "Metals Direct". I then work them down to the right size with an angle grinder and a file, finish them off by using a disc sander, working my way down to fine grit. I use a good thermal epoxy to bond the two together. Do this first and then you can drill out holes right where the holes are on the original MCPC.
You can then piggy back a BLF driver with a low resistance FET. If you want to go whole hog you can mount noctigons but I find that as long as you are not using super high amp batteries this works fairly well. Because I build my own drivers and the copper is fairly cheap it's just about a $6 mod. This light I did a little more and added three High CRI neutral XM-L2's to the mix. I found them too dark to use on their own but when mixed with cool white emitters, they are really nice. Someone had them on sale a while back and I bought a bunch of them. So altogether this was about a $14 mod for me and it's now hitting about 4,000 lumens OTF and the tint and beam are superb. Ramping driver and although it does have parasitic drain it locks out easy enough. (Need to start doing Tom's driver instead). I won the light on evil bay for $11. So it's a total of $25. Not bad for such a nice finished product.
Did you preserve the on board charging?
Built a little brass light
Modded a Skyray King with 3x Nichia 144 90CRI. Kaidomain DTP-Boards. I used Terminal-Pad for + and scratched the - Pad a little bigger. Battery+ is now on the Flashlight-Body.
3x 4,2A AMC-Driver.
Used tripple Optik from DX: http://www.dx.com/p/48-16mm-3-led-reflector-for-cree-emitters-glass-like-plastic-1916
I got round about 4300 Lumen.
I have to add some AMCs, 2 per Emitter/Driver.
And I have to mod the Battery tube to 6V. Now I have used my Tube from my 3x XHP50 SRK.
Sounds really nice.
I have old maglite magcharger. I tried to disassemble it and then I managed and yet I had no clue how to modd this light so I give up. That is something completely different to modd than classic lights.
my friends,i cant remember,but i think,somebody put xhp50 into convoy s2? sadly search doesnt help.anyone rember where is the project?? thanks
Should be a very simple mod. Zener mod the driver and swap emitter. The orange peel reflector should give a nice smooth flood.
okok but probably on two 18350 right-not one 18650
My first attempt at de-doming
Did it on X6 BLF edition with XM-L2 by lifting LED of aluminium heatink, then I turned on flashlight for 10s to heat up LED and peeled off dome with some toothpick :sunglasses:
It went easier than I thought. Unfortunately NW became warm tint
UTorch UT02 Mod. My very last old school XP-G2 De-Domed nice Neutral Tint, 30mm T/A Lexel built Narsil driver Powered by Sanyo 20700A or IJoy 20700 cell made in Japan? Both batteries drive it hard and I have seen 6.45amps at the hit.
Changed out the e-switch button, heavy copper braid rear spring bypass, 2mm thick copper ring driver retainer, cleared the ano off the driver pocket shelf. 6.32amps at the tail cap both Sanyo’s and IJoys read real close to the same.
Really like the Narsil ramping in bigger XHP70 lights, but it works out well in this torch too!
6.32 amps on xp-g2 ?? 
Never seen one over 5.2-5.4 amps